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Old 09-27-2016, 11:27 PM   #31
Coldair
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What did you do to run the explorer fuel injection with a standard trans??
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Krngr View Post
A few notes of what I learned along the way in doing the swap.

The Mustang T5 puts the shifter far back between the seats.
The 94-96 F150 5.0L M5OD-R2 puts the Shift further up under the radio.
The TKO500/TKO600 with the Mid-Shift kit put the shifter essentially in the stock location and would be a great performance trans, but are pretty expensive.

The 99-03 F150 I300 Inline Six Cylinder M5OD-R2 installation notes are as follows.

It puts the shifter right through the Rangers stock location in the floor, as this later revision of the R2 has it further back for the differences in the bodies of the newer F150. (this still allows the use of the popular explorer full length console swap, as would the TKO500/600)

The F150 i300 Six shares the same bellhousing pattern as the small block 302, but it has slightly smaller diameter bolts, so you need to drill out the aluminum bellhousing bolt holes one size up to slide the 5.0 mounting bolts through them. (the two locator dowels are the same size on both engines however and these fit just fine.

The F150's Rubber trans isolator mount does not fit the Ranger crossmember, however the Ranger's 4.0l rubber isolator mount does fit the M5OD-R2.

The M5OD-R2's transmission rubber isolator mounting point is 3/4" more rearward than the Ranger M5OD-R1, so you you need to either slot the ranger's trans-member holes, or move the crossmember back 3/4". (I already have Illusive Fabrications Raised trans mount, which fits between the framerails, so I only needed to slide it back 3/4" and drill two new holes.

You must use a manual SHORT NOSE starter, and a 164 Tooth Flywheel with this transmission.. You must, so make sure you have the right parts... If you are using a 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0L you MUST make sure you are using a 50oz flywheel (the 94-96 F150 5.0 is a 50oz).. Any other 302 setup you are using make sure weather you need 0oz, 28oz, or 50oz balanced flywheels.

My truck was already a OHV 4.0l Manual Trans 2wd, and found that the slave cylinder, and rubber isolator fit the M5OD-R2 and the driveshaft length and splines matched right up (even though I do have a custom two-piece longtravel slip shaft on my bagged/4linked setup, it was made to the stock overall length and was previously on the 4.0's M5OD-R1, so the stock shaft should work as well), the 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L, and SOHC 4.0L or 4x4/Torsion variations may or may not fit, I do not know the details on the interchange there unfortunately. As well as any differences in the 01-11 Rangers, I can personally only vouch for the 98-00's for this particular swap.

The 99-03 F150 i300 M5OD-R2 is very plentiful and very cheap. I had no problem finding dozens of them in my local wrecking yards or on car-part.com.. The vary from $80-$300 consistently, and I bought mine for $130 with 45,000 miles on and they included the engine plate, shifter, and starter for me.. You can't get a cheaper more bolt in solution for a manual 5.0 swap in a ranger.

The earlier gen 94-96 F150 5.0L M5OD-R2 is an option, and should work just the same other than the shifter locations being further forward into the dash, but I wouldn't bother with them as the newer 99-03 version fits better, is 10 years newer, is likely to have much lower mileage on it, will be cleaner, and only cost $100-$200, it's really a no brainer to go with it.

There are all the rebuild parts available for the M5OD-R2 for affordable prices, it can be had with a 4wd transfer case if wanting a manual 4x4 (see the Bronco forums for info on the 4x4 versions guys are using for thier 5.0 builds)..

There is a cnc'd billet short shift kit with hurst shifter available from a company on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Hurst-s...9WT4wX&vxp=mtr

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Old 09-27-2016, 11:44 PM   #32
2Krngr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don4331 View Post
2kRngr:

Mine doesn't lay frame like that, but very nice.
Thanks, it's a 2.5" Z and the frame sectioned out 1"...
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coldair View Post
What did you do to run the explorer fuel injection with a standard trans??
I had a 2wd 5.0 swapped 2dr explorer sport previously with a manual and the 5.0 ecu ran the truck no problem but would hesitate sometimes on hard acceleration and gave permanent cel's due to the missing auto trans input. I sold the truck to a friend that keep hassling me to buy it before I ever did any additional work to it. On this Ranger
I bought an SCT x4 tuner, which can be tuned to fix the hesitation and also eliminate the PATS security issue if not getting the Keys and PATS ECU along with the Engine ECU from the donor truck.

Last edited by 2Krngr; 09-28-2016 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:04 PM   #34
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so you're saying with SCT x4 tuner, you can solve/fix the manual transmission programming problem, as well as delete the PATS? On top of that get a custom tune? Sounds too good to be true
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:09 AM   #35
2Krngr
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Originally Posted by Conor Knoxx View Post
so you're saying with SCT x4 tuner, you can solve/fix the manual transmission programming problem, as well as delete the PATS? On top of that get a custom tune? Sounds too good to be true
You cannot do it with the end user options on the sct x4, you must get a custom tune for it. Fortunately I have a local mustang dyno tuning shop that is a sct dealer and they do all the custom tunes locally, and have no issues with fixing pats, tachs, speedos, and auto/manual swaps on ford ecu's of the era using the x4..

I have no experience with the custom email tunes commonly packaged with the sct products so you would need to check with those companies. But I would always recommend local tuning with the vehicle present if available in your area.
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:30 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don4331 View Post
2kRngr:

Mine doesn't lay frame like that, but very nice.

Conor:

300hp can most likely be met with:
GT40 heads (clean up porting, new valve spring, and may a light decking)
A cam - Ford's M-6250-B303, would probably get you there (with your basic short block and Ford's aluminum heads, it makes 345hp) but there are better grinds on market (B303 was good in '85 when I was hopping my wife's '82 Mustang, but a little dated now).
24lb injectors for up to 350hp (a 4.0 SOHC would provide 6, then you just need 2 more; stock Explorer 5.0 or 4.0 OHV 19lbs ones are only good to about 275hp).
And you need the 'Mustang' double sump oil pan.
Your biggest challenge is headers. Torque Monster headers are tough to come by...

So, find a '99-00 Ranger that is worth upgrading and you're all set.
Just a question, why is the mustang double sump pan needed for the swap? Is this a common pan used when putting it into the 2wd frame? And is there a specific model year or aftermarket pan that is proper or most desirable when using one in a 98+ 2wd ranger swap?

The explorer pan cleared my 2wd xmember when I first mounted the engine at stock height with no problems. But because of the 2.5" Z the engine/trans was tilted back that amount, and I also wanted to keep it all under a stock hood since a Z is effectively a bodydrop. So I lowered the engine still using the stock mounts into the frame 1.5" lower and the rear sump of the pan was touching the xmember just a little so it required the xmember to be notched a little bit, but if I hadn't lowered the motor it would have been fine in a stock frame.

The explorer pan also has the indention on the drivers side for the exhuast to dump down between the rail and pan which is very helpful in the already tight squeeze of getting piping up to the header on that side.

I am not questioning the reasoning or information of using the mustang dual sump. I am genuinely interested about the interference specifics of why it is needed instead of the explorer pan.

NOTE: I know there were two explorer 5.0 pans used, but not sure of which model or years would dictate the different pans. I personally have the stamped steel version of the explorer pan, not the cast aluminum one. I have read somewhere the cast one doesn't fit well for some reason in a ranger swap, but never understood what the differences are.

Last edited by 2Krngr; 09-29-2016 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:43 AM   #37
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2Krngr:

OK, I just learned there are Exploder 5.0s with stamped pads.

All those which I have dealt with (3 to date) have had cast aluminum pans. And the cast pan contacts the cross member way before the engine is in place. The Mustang double sump is the one known to fit. There might be aftermarket ones which fit but I am not aware of them, so can't recommend them on an internet forum.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:05 PM   #38
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well... put a deposit (sight unseen, its 3 hours away...) on a 1999 explorer 5.0 - V8, about 135,000 miles on it If all goes as planned, I'll be getting it home mid-week. I'll start a new thread then, for the actual build log. One more thanks to all the friendly folks who have posted and encouraged me this is a "doable" project! Let fun begin!
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