Gears..or... doubler?

Stumpy · Nov 7, 2007

Ideally I would like to run 5.13's and a doubler. This rig will only be on the dirt, no street. So it won't ever have to come out of 2-low or double-low.

I want to run 35's (or similar).
For less than the price of re-gearing I could set up a doubler.

-If I run 5.13's (no doubler) my crawl ratio comes out to 47.
-If I run a doubler (w/3.73's) the crawl ratio comes to 85.

Running the doubler seems like the way to go, however, with 35's and 3.73's would that be hard on the drive train at all after the T-case even with the doubler? (axle, driveline, etc.)

I plan on swapping in an 8.8 and a D35, 3.73's seem pretty common, so that's most likely what I'll end up with. I'll eventually re-gear when I have the money, but that'll be pretty far down the road.

Any thoughts?

PARKINGLOT · Nov 8, 2007

I'd go with the doubler first, then re-gear after you get the axles....

metalmacguyver · Nov 8, 2007

well it doesnt make any sense to regear before you get the axles you plan on actually using for the rest of the life of the truck. a doubler is somthing you can do now, wont be a waste of money in any way, and will give you a better crawl ratio.

hitech_hick · Nov 8, 2007

PARKINGLOT said:
I'd go with the doubler first, then re-gear after you get the axles....

I agree, regearing can cost $600 on the low end if you do it yourself and $1,200 or more if you take it to a shop. Not to mention as pointed out, you will see more benefit with a doubler that with regearing. After going through the hassle of regearing several times, I would go with a doubler before regearing.

hick

Todd · Nov 8, 2007

This is the exact line I took.

At the time I was running 33’s with 3.73 gears and it was OK at best for the type of wheelin I like to do. I found myself in many technical spots having to just roast the clutch in order to maintain the speed I needed. I didn’t have the money to re gear but needed more crawl. So I built my doubler, then a few months down the road helped my buddy Evan build the same unit for his rig as he was having the same proplems.

After the doubler was installed in my rig I did technical crawling that I could have never done before due to the speed control. After the swap I also swapped in an 8.8 and started to run 35” tires. High range for getting around on the accesses trails was also OK at best. Granted at this time my rig was trail only so I didn’t care much about road manners as they SUCKED!!!! Forget about holding 5th or even 4th on any hill. Low range was also ok but I found myself using double low more often with the 35’s and 3.73’s. Also in mud I couldn’t really ever hold 2 gear low when It got thick and deep, when you need wheel speed. It was totally wheel able in this configuration and did damn well.

But now I geared to 4.88 gears and man does it make a hell of a difference. My crawl before the gears was 85 just as yours would be. Now I am at 111. High and low range have waken up and my crawl is just radically sweet.

Doing it this way worked great for me and I believe it would work the same for you. Do the doubler then when you have more money gear it and you will have all the gear options you could ever need.

Stumpy · Nov 8, 2007

Thanks guys for your replies. (especially Todd)

It just seems like the best way to go, I'll post a build up thread of the rig once the funds start coming in!

I'm excited, 85 is a much better crawl ratio than the 36 I'm sitting at now!
Though 117 is the ultimate goal.

Evan · Nov 10, 2007

Todd's advice is spot on. Get the doubler, then regear later. I built my doubler about a year ago. I have 3.55s and right now am finally in the process of regearing to 5.13s (with lockers front and rear rather than welded shit).

Good luck.

4x4junkie · Nov 12, 2007

The nicest thing is when you reach the point where the engine will literally just idle up anything at all without having to use the throttle. This allows you to let the clutch out without having to remove your foot from the brake, and makes for MUCH smoother progress in a technical situation (no rollback).

CheapThrillB2 · Nov 12, 2007

Junkie and Todd, with your B2s what trans are you using? I think Todd you have the mitsu? and Junkie i'm not sure. I built a doubler for my old sport, but i broke the inner shaft and have put it all in a box in the corner of the garage. But now that i have built myself a B2 i am thinking of pulling the doubler back out. but i have some concerns. I am runing the M50RD trans and an 8.8. I am using a frt explorer driveshaft shortened an inch. Its pretty short. My concern is with the added 6"s or so of the extra doubler length my shaft just can't take being shorter anymore. What lengths are your driveshaft in the rear. I think i may just be to tall of susp lift.

Sorry stumpy for the small misdirection of your thread

4x4junkie · Nov 13, 2007

I have the FM146 in my BII (same length as the M5OD).

My rear driveshaft is somewhere around 27-28" flange-flange (that's with the rearend shoved back almost 3" though).

Todd · Nov 13, 2007

I have the M50D.
As for my rear shaft I am also using an Explorer front shaft shortened. As for length I don’t know it off hand and my rig is not at my place. I do plan on trailering it back today so I could measure it for you.

CheapThrillB2 · Nov 13, 2007

i'm at 31 inches, but i think with the height and angle my driveshaft is at that if i shorten it any it will bind, as it sits now i'm surprized it doesn't. I guess i'll have to lower it, i have been thinking of dropping it a little so i could loose the 4" block in the rear.

Evan · Nov 14, 2007

CheapThrillB2 said:
i'm at 31 inches, but i think with the height and angle my driveshaft is at that if i shorten it any it will bind, as it sits now i'm surprized it doesn't. I guess i'll have to lower it, i have been thinking of dropping it a little so i could loose the 4" block in the rear.

Just aim the rear pig up more towards the t-case and put a double cardian shaft back there.

CheapThrillB2 · Nov 14, 2007

Pinion angle is maxed out (lines up with the driveshaft) and I do not want to turn it up anymore being i am already concerned with the pinion bearing and lube. And i am using a Frt explorer shaft with the double joint already.

I'll have to take a pic to show the angle.

CheapThrillB2 · Nov 18, 2007

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=42681#post42681

sorry for guming up the thread, junkie, todd, can you take alook at the link and give your $.02

Gears..or... doubler?

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