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1996 Ford Taurus Engine in a 1994 Ford Ranger


RangerNielsen

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Here's the deal, My 1994 Ranger 3.0 blew a head gasket. I am not going to go in to a lot of detail about that, for the engine needs extensive work.

I plan to swap in a used 3.0 for now while I rebuild my current 3.0 and swap back.

After searching for a while, I found a 1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 with a bad transmission for a good price. It is front wheel drive as most of you already know.

My question: Would the 1996 Taurus engine be easily converted to work in my 1994 Ranger 4x4 manual? I need my truck back but have to do this on a tight budget. I will be buying the whole car.

(I have already searched for this and have not yet found an answer)
 


Spott

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According to Wikipedia, the 1996 Taurus G or GL has the 3.0l Vulcan engine, which is the same as the Ranger. The intake and exhaust manifolds are likely different, and the transmission will be absolutely useless to you, but all the parts you need to swap should bolt up without any complaints.

The Taurus LX used a 3.0l Duratech 30, which I know nothing about. I suspect that the engines are quite different, and that installing a Duratech might be more work than swapping in a SBC 350.

If anyone else has more than 10 minutes worth of Wikipedia experience with these, then listen to them instead of me.
 

RangerNielsen

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According to Wikipedia, the 1996 Taurus G or GL has the 3.0l Vulcan engine, which is the same as the Ranger. The intake and exhaust manifolds are likely different, and the transmission will be absolutely useless to you, but all the parts you need to swap should bolt up without any complaints.

The Taurus LX used a 3.0l Duratech 30, which I know nothing about. I suspect that the engines are quite different, and that installing a Duratech might be more work than swapping in a SBC 350.

If anyone else has more than 10 minutes worth of Wikipedia experience with these, then listen to them instead of me.
The Taurus transmission would be useless to whether or not it worked and whether or not it was rwd or 4wd auto.

I'm wondering if I can swap the motor mounts off of my ranger onto the donor engine and drop that bad boy in my ranger.

As far as intake and exhaust manifolds, I can use mine if need be.
 

txgocartB3000

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I would just keep the short block from the Taurus and use everything else from the truck.

Make sure you use truck head gaskets.

Ray

EDIT: the oil pan and pick up tube are different
 

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Yes you can, but there is a bit of work to be done before it will work in a Ranger.

The Taurus 3.0l flows coolant to the back of the engine then out to rad, so the Taurus head gaskets block off some cooling passages to get this type of flow.
You will need to change the head gaskets to Ranger 3.0l type for regular flow or engine will overheat, for sure.
Heads and block are exactly the same just the head gaskets are different.

The above is the big one, the rest is expected

Oil pan and oil pickup(or pump) must be changed
yes, Motor Mounts need to be changed but just bolt up
Intake
oil pressure sender
waterpump/fan
exhaust
Flywheel(replace rear main seal, just because)

Crank sensor on Taurus 3.0l will work on Ranger harness
 
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RangerNielsen

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Hmm. That is a huge relief to know, thank you all who responded.

Will i absolutely have to put ranger head gaskets on it before i drop it in my ranger? Sounds like i do, but I tore my ranger 3.0 down to the block today while it's still in the truck, not my best idea... so i may just end up throwing head gaskets on it and run it until i get some back up money to pull it again and do a full rebuild. But that will only happen if I 100% have to put ranger head gaskets on the Taurus 3.0 before I drop it in.
 

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Well, the alternative is to dream up a method to mount that Vulcan sideways in your truck, and still connect to your transmission. Then you could use the Taurus radiator setup, with the Taurus head gaskets.

I wouldn't try it.
 

RangerNielsen

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Or, If I do use the Taurus engine, (gasket wise) would I only need new ranger head gaskets? Or would I need intake and exhaust gaskets too? And head bolts and all that or just re use the ones on the engine until I get my current 3.0 rebuilt.
 

txgocartB3000

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RonD explained it pretty good, better than my reader's digest version.

Head gasket swap are an absolute must in order to minimize the coolant heat impact.

If you are going to use the Taurus engine just while you rebuild the orig engine then go for the ARP head stud setup and reuse those as often as needed.

If you are asking about the reusing of headbolts, be ready for differing opinions.

Lots of people have gotten away with using old stuff (not sure if they are TTY) but do you feel lucky?

ARP can be reused and will help with gasket blow outs. Not cheap for a quick fix situation but something to consider.

Ray
 

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You for sure need to change the head gaskets......period.

And the whole intake...........period(wiring, fuel lines and air intake won't match up)

Also oil pan and oil pump pick up

If your current 3.0l doesn't have connecting rod(s) knocking then why not just redo the heads and install them.

Head bolts should not be reused on these post '80s engines, the treatment they use to make these new bolts give them better stretching ability(engine heating/cooling), and you don't have to re-torque them after 100-200 miles like the old bolts, but once stretched to final torque ft/lb they never return to original length when removed.
You can reuse them, you just shouldn't, best case scenario is that one or two of the bolts will break when your are installing them, that's BEST CASE, because you can dig out the broken bolt and replace them with new, and know you dodge a bullet, lol.
Worst case would be to have one or two bolts snap while driving, say going up a long grade and engine heats up to 220-230degs, warm but normal, heads expand a bit more and bolts snap.


txgocartB3000 is right, studs for the heads are better than bolts, factory uses bolts for one reason, cost, lol.
But studs do require one thing, room, if you will pull out the engine each time you work on it then room is not an issue, but most DIYers pull heads with engine in the vehicle, and there in lies the problem, you need the clearance to lift off the head above the studs, or you need to remove the studs like a bolt...........
Studs are a must in racing engines but these get rebuilt often, in daily drivers, that hopefully only have one head gasket rebuild, the studs are probably overkill.
 
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Spott

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If I understand correctly, you will need, at minimum, new Ranger head gaskets and head bolts.

Pretty much anything else you need can be swapped off your old engine, if the part is still good, and will bolt right up to the new block.
 

RangerNielsen

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Sounds like I'm going to slap gaskets and studs on my 3.0 and put it all back together until I can afford a complete rebuild. Should I do clutch now or later while I can still get the engine disconnected easier than with it back together?
 

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I would not put studs on.

I would put new clutch kit in if it needs it.
It needs it if:
you don't know when and what was changed the last time
it has 60,000 miles since last change, getting close enough to change it on spec
 

RangerNielsen

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I would not put studs on.[/QUOTE]

For now or in general?

I would put new clutch kit in if it needs it.
It needs it if:
you don't know when and what was changed the last time
it has 60,000 miles since last change, getting close enough to change it on spec
I know neither of those. I have had the truck for about 8 months and it seems like nothing in the engine has been taken off of it ever. except maybe head gaskets.

So it sounds like the engine is still coming out today and getting a clutch kit, head gasket, Intake gasket, exhaust gaskets, and new head bolts.
 

RangerNielsen

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Thanks for the help guys. Since I have my 3.0 torn down to the block and now out of the truck, I'm going to do a top to bottom, front to back rebuild.

I have a thread starting on my page (rebuild vs bigger engine) if any of you wish to assist me with my rebuild, for I will need it.

Thanks again for the input.
 

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