need some help with the 302 swap

Bronco2EB · Jun 14, 2015

So I blew another head gasket yesterday so iv had it with the 2.9 and wanting a 302. iv been able to find a lot of info about everything but having trouble getting the straight forward answer. my first real issue is the transmission, iv read some about using a c4(I have the auto overdrive) and I need to know how to make the c4 work. like where to get what I need and what's everything I will need to make it work. also where to get all my parts and everything else for the swap. I know James duff has a lot of things for this but everything they have is high price so I am looking for other sources.

the more info I can get the better!! thank you!

win · Jun 14, 2015

The easiest and least costly solution is likely to find a crashed '96 or '97 Explorer V8 and move the complete engine/transmission/ECU into the B2.

Super tight but it'll fit. Think about the only thing that's a snag under the hood is the air box if you've got A/C and making an air intake tube to get the air filter/MAF plumbed to the throttle body.

If you opt to carb it, the Expo 4R70W won't work but the Expo FEAD is still your best bet for alternator, water pump and P/S pump.

There are less expensive engine mount options needing only minor mods to a pair of 'Stang convertible mounts.

Avoid the later Expo V8's, they'll have PATS for ignition key security and GT40P heads that will limit your header options.

There's a great write up on a Expo V8 transplant into a B2 at:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147302

RonD · Jun 14, 2015

C4 is a 3-speed automatic used from mid-'60's to mid-'80's.
No computer control needed
You need one from a 289, 302 or 351W or C(not M) vehicle so bolt pattern will match your 302, it is called the Ford Small block Windsor pattern.

The AOD is a 4-speed, OD added, and last trans that didn't require computer control, might be a better choice for a daily driver since it has OD.
It was used throughout the '80's on most small block V8s Ford models

AOD-E came out in the early '90's and required a computer

Check local craigslist or wrecking yards

If you want or have a 4x4 then you will need a C4 or AOD trans from a 4x4 and it's transfer case if possible

85_Ranger4x4 · Jun 15, 2015

All you really need to make a C4 or the similar C5 work is a cooler setup, a vacuum line and a shifter. I used a B&M Unimatic cable shifter, looks kind of similar to the stock floorshifter. It works on a bunch of automatics, pretty sure it will work on the AOD if you go that route too. You will need a little wiring for the neutral start switch for your truck to work with it though.

If you find the tailhousing off of a Ranger or BII with a C5 you can have that installed on a C4 and use the stock transfercase you already have. You will need a different linkage if manual t-case (let me know, I have a page about what works somewhere) The C5 I got has had the back end switch so my stock 1350M mounted perfectly. The V6 C5 has fewer clutches in it but can be rebuild to V8 spec. Whatever you find the bellhousing, flexplate, engine seperator plate, torque converter and starter all have to be for the same tooth count. C4/C5 can vary 147t (or thereabouts IIRC), 157t and 164t. The bigger the more common, the smaller the better the fit in a Ranger engine bay (especially without a bodylift. AOD's are all 164t.

I used the foxbody convert/SN95 mounts and would recommend going the V6 mount with plates route. I am unimpressed by the lack of adjustability and holding power of the single stud in a slot. If you are good with the torch/plasma cutter like Ford when you cut the notches you may be ok heightwise... but you have virtually no adjustment side to side. I just spent 3 weeks off an on during monsoon season adjusting mine so the engine can't shift and let the oil pan rub on the crossmember...

need some help with the 302 swap

Bronco2EB

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