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1994 Ford Bronco Build


exbass94

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2006, 1994
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Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
I finally started my tune-up. I got the distributor cap and rotor installed and new spark plugs in. The plugs didn't look too bad. The gap opened up a bit but nothing too outrageous, and they were all a healthy brown color. The cap and rotor were ridiculously corroded and worn though. I test drove it after changing just the cap and rotor and there was a big improvement in power. The plugs didn't make much of a change in power. The plug wires I ordered are apparently too long and don't fit right. I did some research online and found out this has happened to others who ordered these wires. I ordered a different set that is a little shorter and has worked well for others.
 


exbass94

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2006, 1994
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4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
I got my Taylor Spiro-Pro wires in and installed. Tune-up is almost complete. All I need to do is advance the timing and it's done.



The manual transfer case swap is also almost done. I got the new case in. I need a new part for the shifter linkage, which I ordered. I need to get a new U-joint for the front driveshaft (which I ordered), install that and then re-install the front driveshaft. I need to hook up the breather hose and change the fluid in the new case, and the swap will be done. I also need to re-install the skid plate that goes underneath the case, but I need to finish some painting/undercoating underneath the truck before I can do that.
 

exbass94

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2006, 1994
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4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
Breather hose and linkage are hooked up, t-case fluid changed. Just need to change the u-joint and re-install front driveshaft and this swap will be done.

I have that Dana 50 front end all taken apart (Let me know if you need Dana 50 parts!). I drilled a hole in the diff for a drain plug, but didn't have time to tap the hole. I might do that tonight.
 

exbass94

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Location
Guilford, CT
Vehicle Year
2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
I got the hole tapped for the drain plug. I basically ruined the tap in the process. I was halfway through tapping the hole and the tap was already hitting the ring gear and wouldn't go in any further. (I didn't have that problem when I put the drain plug in the D44, apparently the D50 has a bigger ring gear :D ) I had to grind the tap down so it would be short enough to tap the hole all the way. It's ok though, the tap was only about $6, I bought it specifically for this job, and I don't think I'll need it again any time soon. I'll keep it around in case I run into this kind of thing again.

The passenger side stub shaft on the D50 is different than the D44, so I have to use my new Craigslist shaft. It's bigger and stronger anyway (woot, upgrades!). The U-joint in it is really bad, so I tried to replace it last night. It is extremely rusty and the clips broke off when I tried to remove them. I gave up and dropped the shaft off at a driveshaft shop this morning.
 

exbass94

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2006, 1994
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4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
So I've been dealing with this transmission problem for a while now, and I can't figure out what's wrong with it. I created a thread about it here: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320098
If anyone knows what's wrong please let me know.

I think I'm going to have to bring it to a transmission shop and have them look at it. After I get that all sorted out, I can install my new Mag Hytec pan I ordered:


I also picked up the stub shaft from the shop last night. They did a great job replacing that U-joint, and they even knocked all the rust off and cleaned it really well. It's like it's brand new.
 

exbass94

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2006, 1994
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4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
So, my new Dana 50 has a really bad pinion seal. I was going to change it out myself, but I was worried about screwing up the pinion bearing preload. So I took it to an axle shop to have them do it, and to inspect the rest of the diff to make sure it didn't need anything else. I told them that it had milky, nasty oil in it and I was concerned about moisture rusting the bearings. I got the call this morning that there is indeed some rust on the bearings. So they're doing a full rebuild. So, there goes my parts budget for the next few months. :fie: I really need to get going selling those other axle parts so I can make some money back.
 

exbass94

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2006, 1994
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Transmission
Automatic
Last night I spent over $80 filling up the gas tank. This morning as I was leaving for work, as soon as I stepped outside, I could smell gas. I look under the Bronco and see that I have a leaking gas tank. :annoyed: I guess that explains my really crappy mileage (even for a Bronco). It looks like a very small leak, but I'm going to fix this ASAP. Every drop that leaks out is money out of my pocket, so this is moving to the top of the priority list. I might as well fix those rear spring shackles while I have the tank out too.
 

exbass94

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Transmission
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I picked the Dana 50 up from the axle shop this weekend. Looks like the guy did a good job rebuilding it. He charged $400 total for replacing the pinion bearings and pinion seal, carrier bearings, and axle seals. The gears were still in great shape and didn't need to be replaced. I cleaned it up and painted it yesterday, painted the passenger side stub shaft, and installed the stub shaft into the diff. I don't want to install it in the truck yet, though. I want to have working 4wd for driving in the snow this winter, so I can't have two different gear ratios on the front and rear. And I can't get the rear re-geared for at least a few months, due to low money and no time. So the front axle install might have to wait until spring. :sad:
 
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exbass94

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2006, 1994
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4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
Made some money this weekend. :) Since I did the manual transfer case swap, I put my old electric-shift transfer case up for sale on Craigslist, and I just sold it on Saturday. The guy lives pretty far away, so I agreed to meet him halfway, and drove about 40 miles each way to meet up. He made it up to me though: I was asking $75 for the t-case, and he gave me $90. On the way back, I stopped at the scrap yard and got rid of some junk and made an extra $13. Also, a guy on Craigslist just contacted me about one of the old wheels that was on the Bronco, so I'll hopefully sell that soon. All this money is going to help offset the cost of that front diff rebuild, so my parts budget can recover faster.

I'm also right in the middle of replacing the positive battery cable. (I already replaced the negative cable a few months ago while fixing the suspension) It's been on the to-do list for a long time, and the other day, the Bronco wouldn't start. It started fine when I jump started it, but later on I tested the battery and it's fine. I'm thinking it's a bad connection on the positive cable. All more reason to replace that cable sooner rather than later. I'll have pics of that soon.
 
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exbass94

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Guilford, CT
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2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
Well it's been almost exactly one month since my last post. Just checking in to say I don't have any updates. I got married on Nov 1st and just got back from the honeymoon yesterday. So I haven't had any time to work on the Bronco. I need to pay off my credit cards and then I can start saving up for parts again. I'm also trying to save up for a house, so funds are limited. We're currently living at my wife's parent's house, which is not exactly ideal.

I did finish up replacing that positive battery cable though. It's weird, I swear it feels like the engine has more power after replacing it. :dunno: The engine cranks over really fast and starts really well, so I'm happy.
 
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exbass94

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Location
Guilford, CT
Vehicle Year
2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
I took the Bronco in for another emissions test this weekend. Normally in CT you only have to get tested once every 2 years, but apparently since it was way overdue when it got tested last year, I had to get it done again this year. Anyway, it passed the test, but just barely. Suprisingly it actually did a little worse than last year, even though I did a full tune-up and it's running much better since then. :dunno: I'm good for another two years, so I guess I'll worry about it when the next test comes up.

I ordered a new MTS plastic gas tank the other day, and it should arrive today. I have no idea when I'll get around to installing it though.

Last night I removed the rear interior side panels. I had to grind one of the seat belt bolts down in order to remove it. The rest of the bolt is still rusted in the floor. I'll have to eventually drill it out. I also tried to remove one of the rear seat brackets, and ended up snapping both of those bolts too. I decided to not try to remove the other bracket yet, because I know those bolts will snap too. I'll try to heat them with a torch or something.
 

exbass94

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Guilford, CT
Vehicle Year
2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
So I was looking back through this thread, and I realized I never posted pics of the driver's side suspension rebuild! Whoops! Better late than never I guess...Here's the driver's side coming back together:











 
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exbass94

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Guilford, CT
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2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
Long time no update...well, there isn't really anything to update. I've been really busy and haven't much time to work on the Bronco. I also haven't had much money to spend on parts either. The wife and I really want to get the hell out of her parent's house, so I've been banking all the extra money I can to buy a house.

Some minor updates though: I noticed my rear defroster doesn't work. Turns out that adhesive kit I used to glue the tab back on the window is crap, and doesn't conduct electricity, even though it's specifically designed for that one and only purpose. I followed the instructions to a T, and it doesn't work. :dunno: So, I'll fix that eventually.

I noticed the defroster button didn't light up with the rest of the dash lights. I had to do some research and find out which special weird bulb it uses and ordered an LED replacement off eBay. It works great now.

Since I had to take the dash bezel off to do that, I thought about the rest of the dash lights. The AC/heater controls look pretty dim. I'm going to take it apart and see if any bulbs are burnt. I ordered 10 LED bulbs and will test them out in the AC controls and the instrument cluster. If I like them, I'll keep them in there. If not, I'll go back to incandescents.

Also, while I have the bezel out, I decided to do something about the now-useless 4wd buttons on the dash. Finding a dash bezel without the hole for the buttons is basically impossible, so I fabricated a panel to cover up the hole where the buttons were. I then bought a little rocker switch and mounted it to that panel. This switch will be used for an amplifier that I will eventually install.

The dash is still taken apart. I just finally received the LED bulbs yesterday (all the way from China) so now I can finally start getting it back together.

I have a small oil leak that I think is coming from either the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal. The oil pan is also really rusty and I'm worried about it eventually rusting all the way through and leaking all my oil out and destroying my engine ahhh!!! :icon_surprised: So I bought a new oil pan, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal. Replacing these parts requires removing the engine, or at the very least, jacking the engine up a few inches. I don't really have the equipment, patience, or even time to do all that, so I'll probably have a shop do it. I think I will take the truck to the local transmission shop, have them diagnose that weird rattling sound coming from the trans, and also replace the oil pan/rear main while they have it. I'm not sure when I'll do that though, as I'm sure it will cost several hundred dollars that I can't really afford to spend right now.

That's all for updates. I'll try to get some pics of the dash work soon.
 

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Well it's been almost exactly one month since my last post. Just checking in to say I don't have any updates. I got married on Nov 1st and just got back from the honeymoon yesterday. So I haven't had any time to work on the Bronco. I need to pay off my credit cards and then I can start saving up for parts again. I'm also trying to save up for a house, so funds are limited. We're currently living at my wife's parent's house, which is not exactly ideal.

I did finish up replacing that positive battery cable though. It's weird, I swear it feels like the engine has more power after replacing it. :dunno: The engine cranks over really fast and starts really well, so I'm happy.
Belated congratulations!!!

Long time no update...well, there isn't really anything to update. I've been really busy and haven't much time to work on the Bronco. I also haven't had much money to spend on parts either. The wife and I really want to get the hell out of her parent's house, so I've been banking all the extra money I can to buy a house.

Some minor updates though: I noticed my rear defroster doesn't work. Turns out that adhesive kit I used to glue the tab back on the window is crap, and doesn't conduct electricity, even though it's specifically designed for that one and only purpose. I followed the instructions to a T, and it doesn't work. :dunno: So, I'll fix that eventually.

I noticed the defroster button didn't light up with the rest of the dash lights. I had to do some research and find out which special weird bulb it uses and ordered an LED replacement off eBay. It works great now.

Since I had to take the dash bezel off to do that, I thought about the rest of the dash lights. The AC/heater controls look pretty dim. I'm going to take it apart and see if any bulbs are burnt. I ordered 10 LED bulbs and will test them out in the AC controls and the instrument cluster. If I like them, I'll keep them in there. If not, I'll go back to incandescents.

Also, while I have the bezel out, I decided to do something about the now-useless 4wd buttons on the dash. Finding a dash bezel without the hole for the buttons is basically impossible, so I fabricated a panel to cover up the hole where the buttons were. I then bought a little rocker switch and mounted it to that panel. This switch will be used for an amplifier that I will eventually install.

The dash is still taken apart. I just finally received the LED bulbs yesterday (all the way from China) so now I can finally start getting it back together.

I have a small oil leak that I think is coming from either the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal. The oil pan is also really rusty and I'm worried about it eventually rusting all the way through and leaking all my oil out and destroying my engine ahhh!!! :icon_surprised: So I bought a new oil pan, oil pan gasket, and rear main seal. Replacing these parts requires removing the engine, or at the very least, jacking the engine up a few inches. I don't really have the equipment, patience, or even time to do all that, so I'll probably have a shop do it. I think I will take the truck to the local transmission shop, have them diagnose that weird rattling sound coming from the trans, and also replace the oil pan/rear main while they have it. I'm not sure when I'll do that though, as I'm sure it will cost several hundred dollars that I can't really afford to spend right now.

That's all for updates. I'll try to get some pics of the dash work soon.
It's more important to get a home with your wife than to have toys :sad: But in the long run will be worth the sacrifice. I really wish I had followed that advice when I was younger.
Good luck,

Richard
 

exbass94

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Guilford, CT
Vehicle Year
2006, 1994
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0 SOHC, 4.0 OHV
Transmission
Automatic
Belated congratulations!!!

Thanks!


So if you recall, I bought a Dana 50 TTB setup I bought off Craigslist for $120 a few months ago because I wanted the differential and stub shaft. I've been trying to sell all the rest of the parts to generate some cash and to get rid of some junk. I just sold the axle shafts today for....$120. So I basically got my diff and the other stuff for free! :icon_hornsup: Plus, I scrapped the brake rotors, calipers, wheel bearings, and other small stuff off it and got about $13, so I'm already making a profit off it.

On the other hand, I did spend $400 to get the diff rebuilt, and another $60 to get the u-joint in the stub shaft replaced, so I'm kind of still $447 in the hole. But I have the rest of the parts listed on eBay and Craigslist so I'll hopefully recoup some more of that money. Plus I'm going to sell my D44 diff when I swap it out for the D50. It'd be pretty cool to get a freshly rebuilt, stronger than stock, front diff for free.
 

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