• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Duraspark conversion


bassfrad

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 1984 Bronco II that has a Duraspark from a 1978 Pinto. My problem is i'm trying to install a ballast resistor. I have went from the positive side of the dual plug from the ICM to the resistor, out of the resistor to the + side of the coil. I am getting 5.67 volts not running and 8.2 volts with it running, but its not enough to start it when cold if I supply full voltage 12.5 to the coil like it was it starts but burns up the coil pretty quick, like 15 min ideling. I have went through 3 before I gave into a resistor. I have tapped into the start wire from the ICM, the start wire on the rectangle plug (white I think) and to the red/Lt green wire from the solenoid all with the same results of continuing to crank when running. What is going on and how can I fix this?
My coil has 1 ohm my resistor has 1 ohm and my patience has none.:icon_bounceblue:
 


martin

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
3,218
Reaction score
26
Points
0
Age
77
Location
St Bruno, Quebec
Vehicle Year
1984
1991
Make / Model
ford
Transmission
Manual
put a blocking diode in the wire or take out the duraspark box and replace it with a four pin gm module and hei coil.
 

bassfrad

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
The HEI coil is what I have replaced 3 times and this last time I got a stock coil and dont have any idea to what a blocking diode is. Ok I found out what a blocking diode is and I think it is just what I need but how do I know which one or size I need? 14 volts and well hell I dont know.
 
Last edited:

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
use a stock coil and be done with it you dont need a resistor and I get plenty of fire battery voltage ignition on and 9+ when running
 

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
He He I was pulling a vacuum line and knocked one of the plug wires off the distributor with my left hand and got a spark about 1 1/2 inches to the body with my right so I know it was getting good spark as my body fluttered
 

bassfrad

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
I am running a stock coil now and with my 1 ohm resistor in place I have 11.73 volts at battery but only 6.5 volts to the coil wich is not enough to start. How can I increase the voltage to start to make it start and not burn my coil when running.
 

John Smith

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
480
Reaction score
6
Points
18
In the old ays...

You might want to bring a wire from the HOT (starter post) side of the starter solenoid to the + side of the coil. While cranking it will get the 12 but after crank will drop back to the resister voiltage. If you look at early chev and ford wiring...they ran two wires to the hot side of the coil.... one from the starter solenoid...one from the "resister wire" or resister. If you see the 78 pinto wiring.. you may see this type of setup as well....

most early canister coils may require a resister to stay alive....

i have found two box store cheaper canister coils failed right out of the box...

i think these coils were orginally essentually 6volt coils (about 8vlts)..and all need a resister when we all changed to 12volts in about 56 i think....most older wieing diagrams will show you this.....

I remember installing a special series/parallel solenoid and battery combo for my 56 ford that would crank on 12 volts..then run on six.....my battery was a specially made 12volt with 2 extra posts....the year was 1963 i was in texas at the time..wiring that up when i got the news.....(the president in dallas) ...with the magic of the internet..I've actually been trying to find who made that early Solenoid kit to help start a tight 6 volt Ford....anyway.....

I put a red-capped Mallory in mine....really old school....again good luck

new ford start solenoids actually have an ign post as well dont they?.....I think this will work....

This is the way i have mine wired using a Mallory Diz....good luck
 
Last edited:

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
were you burning out stock coils when I did my duraspark the only wire I had to splice was the green to the coil from the ignition box I got the harness from the bone yard for the distributor three round and 4 round you can bypass the resistor for start from either start solenoid small wire or white wire going to duraspark (white start, red run) the wires are opposite coming from the ignition but are correct plugged right in It seems to be fine it fires right up and the coil does not even get warm after running for about 45 minutes I also set the plugs gap at 50 they were black when I put them in from bad valve guide seals after i changed the seals they burn nice and clean brought it to life real happy so far
 

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
what is the battery voltage when the engine is running it should be no more than 2 volts over battery voltage and around .5v over battery voltage with lights on and accessories on. maybe you have a charging system problem if you battery voltage is lower than 12 volts
 

bassfrad

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
I have 14.2 volts. It would be nice to see all makers just make there coils run on 14 volts. Does anyone make one at the moment? Also I know that this engine is small but it seems to me that it is very under powered for a Bronco II. I just wonder if it is just short on power or if something could be wrong. I have done a leak down test (15% across rings), a compression test ( all cylinders were 160 psi except #2 which was 155 psi), I have set the timing from 0Deg to 40 deg without vac advanced kooked up with no real differance in power. I can run 70 mph if I really try but it eventualy downshifts to second (C5 trans). It only has 31" tires. I guess it is just weak. I just wondering because I bought this to fix and sell and I dont want to sell someone any troubles.
 
Last edited:

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
tech library

If your getting 14.2 v running and your battery voltage is less than twelve you need to check your charging system the tech library has a good writeup on it I found mine had a connector on the regulator that was not pushed all the way in when plugged in try it with just the stock coil without the resistor but make sure your charging system is up to spec before you run it too long your battery voltage should be above 12 v in any case and 14.2 is good as long as the battery is 12.2 or above if your headlights dim at an idle then flare when u give it gas you need to fix the chargin system first it will mess with the ignition
 

kimcrwbr1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2009
Messages
6,044
Reaction score
46
Points
48
Location
maplevalley WA
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8l
Transmission
Automatic
timing

just set the timing at 10 degrees with no vacuum and leave it mine has plenty of power put bigger tires on and they break loose on dry pavement now I could barely do it on wet pavement before
 

John Smith

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
480
Reaction score
6
Points
18
I have 14.2 volts. It would be nice to see all makers just make there coils run on 14 volts. Does anyone make one at the moment? Also I know that this engine is small but it seems to me that it is very under powered for a Bronco II. I just wonder if it is just short on power or if something could be wrong. I have done a leak down test (15% across rings), a compression test ( all cylinders were 160 psi except #2 which was 155 psi), I have set the timing from 0Deg to 40 deg without vac advanced kooked up with no real differance in power. I can run 70 mph if I really try but it eventualy downshifts to second (C5 trans). It only has 31" tires. I guess it is just weak. I just wondering because I bought this to fix and sell and I dont want to sell someone any troubles.

It still has a cat, and air pump, unless you have removed it...have you changed the carb?...maybe you said ...put a few miles on it after during the stem seals....see how it runs then....It excells in longevity....not raw power...for me the best motor for a b2 short of a 302

I bought a mallory promaster coil...they tell me they can't find a decent canister coil anymore....If you could find a working 78 pinto coil.?..

( I personally don't think I'll knowingly buy an Asian made coil again I've had two fail)

the stock coil was made for 12 volts...some have had trouble with modules with it however.....
 
Last edited:

martin

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
3,218
Reaction score
26
Points
0
Age
77
Location
St Bruno, Quebec
Vehicle Year
1984
1991
Make / Model
ford
Transmission
Manual
The original coil that was on the b2 runs at 12v.
 

bassfrad

New Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
OK, I charged the battery and then checked it. It is 12.3 volts not running, 14.1 volts running with lights on (new alt. & reg) I switched the solenoid from my one prong for a dual prong and tied a wire from it to the coil. It cranks great but I still get around 6.5 volts through the res. off and 10.2 volts when running. I think this will be fine so on to the lack of power. I set the timing to 10 deg BTDC and completely done away with my vacume advance. I runs well but there is no posible way I will break the tires loose on any pavement. I adjusted the valves (when warm) to specs and then rechecked after a little driving. I have no air pump, no cat, just a glasspack and I am running the stock coil from autozone from a 78 Pinto. The only other problem I have is the wires on the pass side for the blower motor has been cut and I only have high and would like to fix before I sell. There is a red wire on the driver side that has been cut from a rectangle plug that flashes when the key is on another wire that is on and white wire that is on when cranking, I wonder if one of these wires are for the temp gauge and / or fuel gauge (they are the only two gauges that dont work)
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top