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2.9L issue hard to start when cold


88 XLT Ranger

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
357
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Age
61
Location
Pollock Pines Ca
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Automatic
I been having this issue the last few weeks when the engine cools sitting overnight its real hard to start. I try to let it start on its own than I have to put my foot to the floor. It turns over many times than finaly I get it fire. It sounds like its loaded up trying to clear its self out. After I get it started and warmed up its starts fine even sitting for a few hours. This is putting a strain on my starter turning it over so much to get it started up. I pulled one plug it was fuel fouled any ideas and help is very much appreciated
 


Spott

Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
925
Reaction score
21
Points
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Location
SE Idaho
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
I been having this issue the last few weeks when the engine cools sitting overnight its real hard to start. I try to let it start on its own than I have to put my foot to the floor. It turns over many times than finaly I get it fire. It sounds like its loaded up trying to clear its self out. After I get it started and warmed up its starts fine even sitting for a few hours. This is putting a strain on my starter turning it over so much to get it started up. I pulled one plug it was fuel fouled any ideas and help is very much appreciated
It sounds, on the surface, like the engine is getting too much fuel. When you press the throttle pedal all the way down while cranking, the EEC recognizes that as an instruction to use the "clear flooded engine" operating mode, and turns off the fuel injectors while cranking. In your engine, there's already too much fuel in the cylinders at that point, so it still can't fire. After many revolutions without adding more fuel, enough of the excess fuel in the cylinders evaporates and the fuel/air ratio approaches the point where it can fire.

This is likely caused by one of two things. Either the diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator has ruptured and fuel is going into the vacuum system and into the air intake, or your fuel injectors are delivering too much fuel. To determine which, pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and smell the hose. If the hose smells like gas, then replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the hose doesn't smell like gas, then the problem is associated with the fuel injectors, and requires additional testing. Reconnect your vacuum hose.

There are two likely base-causes for excess fuel from the injectors. First, maybe your fuel injectors are fouled so that they are not closing fully, and are dribbling fuel into the engine. Second, maybe there's a problem with the electrical signals the fuel injectors are receiving, that's keeping them open more than they should. The second case may have a number of possible sub-causes, but let's start by determining which one of these two is the base cause.

Background: The underlying electrical function is fairly straightforward. When the key is turned to "Run" or "Start", the EEC receives 12V power and connects continuous 12V to one wire of each fuel injector. When the engine is cranking or running above about 400RPM, the EEC very briefly connects the other wire of the fuel injectors to ground, just before/as the intake valve opens during each 4-stroke cycle. When this happens, power flows through an electromagnet coil inside the injector and opens a valve, and it sprays fuel into the air intake that is then drawn into the cylinder.

So, start with a couple of basic electrical tests:

1. Get a cheap multi-meter, if you don't already have one. One can be purchased for $10-20, and it will pay you back that much almost immediately in time saved and in avoiding unnecessary parts replacement.

2. With the key off, pull an electrical connector for one of the fuel injectors.

3. Set your meter to "Volts", or "DC Volts", depending on the style of your meter. If you have ranges to pick from, pick the next range larger than 15V (20V or 50V are likely good options).

4. Measure from the negative battery terminal to each wire in the fuel injector connector (the wiring side, not the engine block side). Each wire should measure very close to 0 Volts. Anything less than 0.1V, or 100mV, is probably good, or if your meter is displaying rapidly changing, varying, small values then this is also a good result. If you get other values, return to the forum and let us know what you measured.

5. Set your meter to "Continuity" or "Ohms" or the "Ω" symbol. If you have ranges to pick from, select 10K or 20K.

6. Measure from the negative battery terminal to each wire in the fuel injector connector, again. Each wire should measure more than 10K, or "Over" or "OL" or "--". If you get other values, return to the forum and let us know what you measured.

7. Pull an electrical connector for a fuel injector on the other cylinder bank of the engine, and repeat step 6 for that connector.

8. Reconnect your fuel injector wires.

If the tests in steps 4, 6, and 7 give you the specified results, then you know there's no electrical issues with the fuel injectors while the key is off. Then continue testing below.

If you get bad results in steps 4, 6, or 7, then come back to the forum and let us know what you found.

9. Get a fuel pressure gauge. These can often be "rented" for free from an auto-parts chain, with a deposit that is refunded upon return of the tool.

10. Install the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. On the driver's side of the engine, up near the air intake, there's a fuel test valve that's the same shape as a tire valve, that you thread the gauge onto. Get the engine running and warmed up, and check the fuel pressure. It should be around 30-40 PSI.

11. Shut off the engine and turn off the key. Watch the fuel pressure gauge over the next several hours. Ideally, the fuel system will hold 30+ PSI indefinitely. If you find that the fuel pressure slowly (or quickly) drops to 0, then it probably means that the injectors are fouled and leaking fuel into the engine. (Another cause of this pressure-loss would be a bad check-valve in the high-pressure fuel pump, or a bad fuel pressure regulator, but if either of those were the cause, you'ld see hard starts caused by having a fuel shortage, which is the opposite of your symptoms.)

If the pressure stays high in step 11, then you know your fuel injectors are not leaking.

If the pressure falls to 0 in step 11, then you need to clean, or rebuild, or replace your fuel injectors.

If the electrical measurements in steps 4, 6, and 7 are correct as specified, and the fuel pressure readings in step 11 stay where they should, then at that point you know for certain that the cause of the problem is an electrical issue that only occurs when the key is on. Come back to the forum and tell us what the measurements were for those steps. Once you do that, then we can provide you additional steps to narrow down the source of the electrical problem.
 

88 XLT Ranger

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
357
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Age
61
Location
Pollock Pines Ca
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Automatic
It sounds, on the surface, like the engine is getting too much fuel. When you press the throttle pedal all the way down while cranking, the EEC recognizes that as an instruction to use the "clear flooded engine" operating mode, and turns off the fuel injectors while cranking. In your engine, there's already too much fuel in the cylinders at that point, so it still can't fire. After many revolutions without adding more fuel, enough of the excess fuel in the cylinders evaporates and the fuel/air ratio approaches the point where it can fire.

This is likely caused by one of two things. Either the diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator has ruptured and fuel is going into the vacuum system and into the air intake, or your fuel injectors are delivering too much fuel. To determine which, pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and smell the hose. If the hose smells like gas, then replace the fuel pressure regulator. If the hose doesn't smell like gas, then the problem is associated with the fuel injectors, and requires additional testing. Reconnect your vacuum hose.

There are two likely base-causes for excess fuel from the injectors. First, maybe your fuel injectors are fouled so that they are not closing fully, and are dribbling fuel into the engine. Second, maybe there's a problem with the electrical signals the fuel injectors are receiving, that's keeping them open more than they should. The second case may have a number of possible sub-causes, but let's start by determining which one of these two is the base cause.

Background: The underlying electrical function is fairly straightforward. When the key is turned to "Run" or "Start", the EEC receives 12V power and connects continuous 12V to one wire of each fuel injector. When the engine is cranking or running above about 400RPM, the EEC very briefly connects the other wire of the fuel injectors to ground, just before/as the intake valve opens during each 4-stroke cycle. When this happens, power flows through an electromagnet coil inside the injector and opens a valve, and it sprays fuel into the air intake that is then drawn into the cylinder.

So, start with a couple of basic electrical tests:

1. Get a cheap multi-meter, if you don't already have one. One can be purchased for $10-20, and it will pay you back that much almost immediately in time saved and in avoiding unnecessary parts replacement.

2. With the key off, pull an electrical connector for one of the fuel injectors.

3. Set your meter to "Volts", or "DC Volts", depending on the style of your meter. If you have ranges to pick from, pick the next range larger than 15V (20V or 50V are likely good options).

4. Measure from the negative battery terminal to each wire in the fuel injector connector (the wiring side, not the engine block side). Each wire should measure very close to 0 Volts. Anything less than 0.1V, or 100mV, is probably good, or if your meter is displaying rapidly changing, varying, small values then this is also a good result. If you get other values, return to the forum and let us know what you measured.

5. Set your meter to "Continuity" or "Ohms" or the "Ω" symbol. If you have ranges to pick from, select 10K or 20K.

6. Measure from the negative battery terminal to each wire in the fuel injector connector, again. Each wire should measure more than 10K, or "Over" or "OL" or "--". If you get other values, return to the forum and let us know what you measured.

7. Pull an electrical connector for a fuel injector on the other cylinder bank of the engine, and repeat step 6 for that connector.

8. Reconnect your fuel injector wires.

If the tests in steps 4, 6, and 7 give you the specified results, then you know there's no electrical issues with the fuel injectors while the key is off. Then continue testing below.

If you get bad results in steps 4, 6, or 7, then come back to the forum and let us know what you found.

9. Get a fuel pressure gauge. These can often be "rented" for free from an auto-parts chain, with a deposit that is refunded upon return of the tool.

10. Install the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. On the driver's side of the engine, up near the air intake, there's a fuel test valve that's the same shape as a tire valve, that you thread the gauge onto. Get the engine running and warmed up, and check the fuel pressure. It should be around 30-40 PSI.

11. Shut off the engine and turn off the key. Watch the fuel pressure gauge over the next several hours. Ideally, the fuel system will hold 30+ PSI indefinitely. If you find that the fuel pressure slowly (or quickly) drops to 0, then it probably means that the injectors are fouled and leaking fuel into the engine. (Another cause of this pressure-loss would be a bad check-valve in the high-pressure fuel pump, or a bad fuel pressure regulator, but if either of those were the cause, you'ld see hard starts caused by having a fuel shortage, which is the opposite of your symptoms.)

If the pressure stays high in step 11, then you know your fuel injectors are not leaking.

If the pressure falls to 0 in step 11, then you need to clean, or rebuild, or replace your fuel injectors.

If the electrical measurements in steps 4, 6, and 7 are correct as specified, and the fuel pressure readings in step 11 stay where they should, then at that point you know for certain that the cause of the problem is an electrical issue that only occurs when the key is on. Come back to the forum and tell us what the measurements were for those steps. Once you do that, then we can provide you additional steps to narrow down the source of the electrical problem.
Thank you so Much

I read the great info and went out did the first thing pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. It smelled of fuel vapor real strong at first. Can I test this buy plugging the vacuum line fitting on the plenum and start it? or what is the best test on a fuel pressure regulator as the vacuum getting fuel trough it
 

Spott

Member
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
925
Reaction score
21
Points
18
Location
SE Idaho
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Thank you so Much

I read the great info and went out did the first thing pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. It smelled of fuel vapor real strong at first. Can I test this buy plugging the vacuum line fitting on the plenum and start it? or what is the best test on a fuel pressure regulator as the vacuum getting fuel trough it
Try disconnecting the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, plugging the line, and running the engine. If fuel comes out the port on the regulator, even a little bit, then replace the regulator.

If fuel doesn't come out that port on the regulator, then reconnect the vacuum line and proceed with the rest of the tests.
 

88 XLT Ranger

Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
357
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Age
61
Location
Pollock Pines Ca
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.9L
Transmission
Automatic
Try disconnecting the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, plugging the line, and running the engine. If fuel comes out the port on the regulator, even a little bit, then replace the regulator.

If fuel doesn't come out that port on the regulator, then reconnect the vacuum line and proceed with the rest of the tests.
That was the problem the fuel pressure regulator. I fired it up fuel started coming out of the port. I was lucky the auto parts store here in town had one in stock. I got it changed fires right up no issues at all. I want to thank you so very much for taking the time to help out. Its so very much appreciated this forum is so helpful with amazing people like you that know so much of these Rangers. Again thank you
 

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