Broken ignition switch in my '86

Louisville86 · Oct 25, 2009

So this afternoon I tried to start my '86 (2WD, 2.9, automatic). Instead of starting something "snapped" and now the switch rotates freely between where "ACC" and "Start" are, with no switching (there are still detents like before and the key won't come out unless it's in the former "Off" position). The steering column is unlocked and I can shift the transmission, plus the fan/radio/etc. are all operable with the key in or out, so it's like its in the "On" position.

What do I need to replace to fix this, and is it something I can do myself? Lucky for me this happened in my driveway so can do it at my leisure.

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere.

ForOffRoadDriving · Oct 25, 2009

it sounds like you need an ignition switch, which is mounted on the top side of the steering column. you may also want to replace your lock cylinder and keys at this time if you have been having any problems with the acc, off, on, or start.
heres what the ignition switch looks like (part number US98)
http://www.standardbrand.com/Online Catalogs-eCatalog/Content.aspx
(the lock cylinder is part number US104L)
you have to click the part number tab and then enter the numbers to get miulti angle photos of the part.

Louisville86 · Oct 25, 2009

So I got the ignition key lock cylinder removed (quite easy, really). Looks like this:

Mine appears to be busted; when I turn it into the "Start" position there is no spring action to return it to the "On/Run" spot. And my battery is dead from being "On" all night :bawling:

It's charging now. And it's raining/snowing. :annoyed:

The part only costs $14.95 down at Checker/Pep Boys, so maybe this will be an easy one.

Louisville86 · Oct 25, 2009

So I went to buy the key lock cylinder, but decided that that wasn't the problem as the new one didn't "spring" like I thought it should (from "Start" back to "On/Run"). So I got an ignition switch, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one. It has these weird bolts:

Any idea how to get those things off?

Louisville86 · Oct 25, 2009

I'm stymied now. I got the ignition switch off, put the new one one, but the key does not seem to move the sliding pin back and forth to change the positions on the switch. It seem to not be "catching" as I rotate the key.

Not sure what part I need to replace now; I guess I'll try a new ignition key lock cylinder first then go from there. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the assemblies on manual vs. automatic trucks?

Very frustrating!

One good thing, though, I was able to put the switch into the "off" position so I won't be running my battery down again.

Louisville86 · Nov 7, 2009

Update

OK Ranger Folk:

Today I got the key housing/shaft out - it did involve removing the steering wheel, but now I know how to do it. What an involved mess, though.

Anyway, the broken part is this thing, called the actuator. What I thought was three pieces:

is just one:

The broken teeth are what was causing the gear connected to the lock cylinder to not engage:

You can see the teeth inside that groove; they rotate with the key.

So I ordered the new actuator at Go Ford in Wheat Ridge ($17); it'll be here Tuesday. The worst part is that all these moving parts have a nice coating of white grease on them and it is very messy!

I guess I could have fixed this without removing the steering wheel and the key housing/shaft, but I wouldn't have been able to figure it out without looking at it up close. Live and learn!

Louisville86 · Nov 10, 2009

Good news - I got my part ("ignition actuator") today, put the key housing shaft back together (well-greased), hooked up the wires and zoom, she was running again! It's very strange to start your truck with the steering wheel off and the steering column mostly disassembled, but nice to see the dumb thing working as intended. I'll put the rest together tomorrow when it's light.

Sorry about those evil things I said about your work, Ford engineers!

Kalwren · Nov 10, 2009

Lol, thanks for sharing. I'm glad you got it worked out.

I get all sorts of stressy when my truck isn't running.

Louisville86 · Nov 11, 2009

Success - she's all put back together and running good now.

The hardest part was getting the steering column cover to screw together - who knew. I get to drive my truck again!

And remember: "FASTEN AND ADJUST YOUR SEAT BELT."

RobbieD · Nov 11, 2009

Nice pics and description on how you fixed this; thanks for sharing. Good job!

Louisville86 · Nov 12, 2009

One funny thing: after I got it put together and was happily driving yesterday, I noticed that the horn wasn't working. Da*#+t! I was worried that I hadn't tightened the steering wheel enough or some other mystery problem. :icon_confused:

I went out this morning and fiddled around, then noticed that the lighter also wasn't working, realized that it and the horn were on the same fuse, put a new 20 AMP fuse in there and Honk! Honk! I had a horn again (and a lighter). Funny since the fuse is always the easiest fix but never seems to be the thing that is actually wrong.

cariboo4x4 · Nov 18, 2009

So I went to buy the key lock cylinder, but decided that that wasn't the problem as the new one didn't "spring" like I thought it should (from "Start" back to "On/Run"). So I got an ignition switch, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one. It has these weird bolts: Any idea how to get those things off?

I'm glad I found your post here. I may be taking this apart too. Did you have to remove those weird bolts? How did you get it apart?

Louisville86 · Nov 19, 2009

I just used a pair of pliers to gently turn them and they came right out. They are "anti-theft" bolts that are designed to go on and then round off so they are hard to remove. I think my ignition switch was replaced at some time before, as the one I removed had a hand-written number on it, indicating that it came from the salvage yard.

Reason for the bolts is that once you remove the switch, you can start the vehicle independently of the key mechanism (the steering wheel would still be locked, though).

It's not a terrible design given its vintage (Ford vehicles got column-mounted keys in 1970).

canoeman1972 · Nov 22, 2009

I have a similar problem to fix- How did you get your housing off the steering shaft. On mine there is a bearing holding it from sliding off. How did you get off the bearing?

Louisville86 · Nov 23, 2009

Try this

On mine the bearing (3517) was set in a rubber "ring" (3518) with a small clip (3C610, which also refers to the larger plate that the horn actuating contacts [52794-S] mount to) holding it in place. Once I removed the clip the housing came right off.

The dealer gave me a schematic; hope this helps.

I'm not sure what, if anything, is different if the truck has a tilt steering wheel.

Broken ignition switch in my '86

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