3" or 6" body lift

I have a 2000 ford ranger xlt v6 4.0 with torsion crank and 3 in lift blocks in rear with 33's. I'm wanting to lift it. But don't know if I should get a 3 or 6 inch body lift. I found a company that customizes them but not sure.


Any thoughts??

6 inch body? I could see suspension but I wouldn't want over 3 inches for body. You would need to extend so many wires for a 6 inch... Go suspension lift

anything above 3" of body lift is illegal in most states. plus it would look like complete crap. do 1,2, or 3" body, but no more than that.

They only prolem is the Ifs lift cost $1700 plus shippinh

Boggin said:

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hahahahahahaha funny!

6" body lift?

Go 3" max and cut your fenders to clear the biger tires. Put suspension lift on it later. You will have to do way to many modifications for a 6" body lift. Think about what it would do to your steering and shifter geometry. Think about how the body would react if you had an accident, it would roll right off the frame! LOL! Make sure you use quality fasteners or grade 8 bolts or this could happen.....







Kid used to small of washers on the top side of the bolts and they pulled through the body when he hit a ditch.

I think I'll just stick with 3" lol no thanks. Do you think wheel spacers would help as well. If I try to squeeze 35's on with a body lift

offroadking626 said:

I think I'll just stick with 3" lol no thanks. Do you think wheel spacers would help as well. If I try to squeeze 35's on with a body lift

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Spacers on the wheels or blocks on the springs?

Spacers will just make your tires stick out further and they will for sure rub on the fenders when you turn. Blocks will work on the back springs, but on the front you would need longer coils or spacers under the spring, which opens a whole other can of worms trying to get it back into alignment. I know people here who have done that with coils from other trucks, but only a couple inches of lift without replacing all the hangers for your IFS. Possibly someone will chime in with the specs for that as I don't know.

Look up in the TECH Library on LIFTING on the Cheap, as there is a bunch of options there.

Ive seen a couple of cabs detach from frames & that why I have always used 1/4" plate cut & drill to work as a top washer for any vehicle I have had body lift kits on.

i just don't run a body lift...

offroadking626 said:

They only prolem is the Ifs lift cost $1700 plus shippinh

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then buy a cheaper truck to lift if u want to be big u have to spend the money

GoodOld85BlueBalls said:

Kid used to small of washers on the top side of the bolts and they pulled through the body when he hit a ditch.

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Bet that was a hell of a ride, I wouldn't even see the point in puttiing that big of a body lift on a toyota they can fit pretty good size tires without any lift. I'm with everyone else of course 3" is plonty, make sure you lift the bumpers too.

I did a body lift on my choptop mostly only because when it came time to replace the body mounts, I got a great deal on a body lift - I had the option of a 2" or 3" body lift for the same price as buying all the bolts would have cost, so I bought a 2" kit. I ended up with mixed emotions on it, part of me loves the extra clearance around all things mechanical, but part of me doesn't like body lifts because even a 2" shows a bit more frame and changes a lot of the dynamics of the machine. I don't think I'd ever want anything taller than a 2".

I ran into the issue with my 2000 Ranger back a couple years where I had a desire to lift it, but found that it was expensive to do right. So what did I do? Well, at the time my Ranger was my only vehicle....

So I went looking for a 4x4 playtoy and picked up my 88 Eddie Bauer Bronco II for $340. With another $100 into it, I had a road legal 4x4 that was cheap and easy to work on. Of course, the engine decided to swallow a couple valves a few thousand miles later, but still, it was cheap and fun while it lasted, so I started an engine swap. Then I came across my choptop, engine was blown up (SERIOUSLY cracked head) and I picked it up for $160. Then I picked up a junk BII for $250 that had a 2" suspension lift and locked 4.10 geared axles. Used the junk BII to fix up the choptop for it's first build. Cracked the heads again and swapped in another 2.9 out of a wrecked BII that I stripped for parts for $100. Sold and traded parts as I needed to and now I have a total of about $1,650 sunk into my choptop, including what I paid for it and the nearly new 35" tires sitting in my shed waiting to go on. As I had money, I scrounged parts and the truck grew, it's been a really fun toy and a great learning experience.

WOW body flip