New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

jhammel85 · Oct 3, 2014

Nice job! This is my ideal swap.

Elutheros · Oct 6, 2014

Thanks, I'm looking forward to the day when it finally runs and drives.

Elutheros · Nov 5, 2014

It runs! And you thought I quit.

dangerranger83 · Nov 5, 2014

Been waiting for an update

RangerSVT · Nov 5, 2014

Congrats!

SVT

Elutheros · Nov 5, 2014

After my first start attempt a couple weeks ago I had no spark and then decided to completely redo my wiring so the ECU is in the normal location. After I finished that I was still diagnosing the lack of spark. Finally swapped TFI and reset the distributor and it fired right up. Turned it off to get some video on the restart and the starter solenoid toasted itself. Don't know why. Will post more when I figure how to do photos on tapatalk.

dangerranger83 · Nov 5, 2014

If using photobucket then you simply copy the image link then paste it to the comments (either hold down in the young area and it gives the option to paste or some keyboards, like Swype, they act like a computer and its control (swype symbol) and "v").

It's something easier done then said.

Elutheros · Nov 6, 2014

My next challenge is the front driveshaft to T/C connection. Both are 1310 size u joints but the tc has a wider bolt pattern. I can't remember what the donor truck had as a mount on the ds. Options are a different yoke on the tc or a different centering yoke on the CV joint?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415311131.770419.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415311159.818419.jpg

dangerranger83 · Nov 6, 2014

The full size cases came with 1330 joint yokes which share the same cap size as the 1310 but are wider and larger body joints. You could run a 1310-1330 conversion joint, fot mine off eBay for $20 or do a yoke swap on either the shaft or tc.

RangerSVT · Nov 6, 2014

I'd swap slip yokes on the shaft. Easy enough to find those in the junkyard. I have about a dozen different styles on hand...

SVT

Elutheros · Nov 7, 2014

Maybe I wasn't clear enough. The bolt holes on the yoke of the tc don't align with those on the centering yoke of the double cardan on the driveshaft. The slip joint is on the front differential and is no problem. The width between the ujoint cap tabs of the tc
Yoke is 3 7/32" which is a 1310. I think the 1978 f150 used u clamps to secure the ujoint to the tc yoke and that won't work with the double cardan centering yoke which is threaded for bolts. So I either have to change the tc yoke so the bolt holes line up or the centering yoke. I found a CV yoke listed on one site for the tc and I'm going to see if they can get me the dimensions of the bolt pattern

dangerranger83 · Nov 9, 2014

Yes the f150 does use ubolts to hold the shaft on. I suggest finding another shaft. I'm lifted and a single joint is doing fine.

Elutheros · Nov 10, 2014

A few updates and question:

I remounted the radiator to allow use of the stock fan and built a support for the bottom of the radiator and welded it to the frame.

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I also got the shifter in place and discovered that it does not hit the dash although it is close. I will probably still bend it back a bit and shorten is by about 4 inches.

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The upper radiator hose is a stock Explorer and the lower is a flex hose. I'm still experimenting with different air cleaner/MAF/intake hose configurations.

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Now for the question--I burned up two starters and I'm not sure why. The original was the one on the F150 I got the trans, flywheel, etc. from, so it was the right starter. After many cranking attempts I finally got the ignition sparking and she started up. I shut it down to do some video and the starter would not turn on the next try. I took it out and got it tested and it was locked up and smelled like it burned. I got another today and checked to make sure it was the correct starter. Installed it, cranked and started right up. After the engine was running a couple minutes I got out to look around for issues and the starter had a small flame on the rubber insulation farthest away from the engine. Upon inspection I found that the teeth of the starter are just barely contacting the flywheel when they should not be.

Do I have start/run voltage to the starter and it is running all that time? I could not hear any of the grinding noises typical of a starter running when the engine is running. Is the solenoid activated and keeping the stater gear engaged? I'm baffled and maybe just a little "wiring dyslexic". Any help would be appreciated.

RangerSVT · Nov 10, 2014

Did you make sure to put the starter plate in (plate between the motor and trans)? Are you going through 2 solenoids or one? How do you have it wired currently?

SVT

Elutheros · Nov 11, 2014

Yes, I put the plate in between the engine and trans--it is not the original, but came from a 6 cylinder. It is steel and may be slightly thicker than the aluminum plate.

Here is a photo of the starter relay and wiring--positive from the battery to the starter all the time via the large red cable, and the smaller red wire goes to the starter solenoid. I'm sure I could have screwed something up--I do it all the time!

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New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

jhammel85

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5.0 HO under the hood!!!

Oct 09 OTOTM

Active Member

5.0 HO under the hood!!!

Active Member

5.0 HO under the hood!!!

Oct 09 OTOTM

Active Member

5.0 HO under the hood!!!

Active Member

Oct 09 OTOTM

Active Member

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