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Old 08-27-2009, 08:47 PM   #11
jaymegriffiths
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i can get a set of d44's from a 74 jeep cherokee, but i believe they are pass. side drop. is there a way to correct this to work on my ranger? with enough narrowing i spose the diff would be near center...
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And that's a 600 cfm Holley and you've got it mounted backwards
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:46 PM   #12
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no.
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:40 PM   #13
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thanks for that detailed answer. according to some other threads a passenger side diff has been done on a RBV but not without a passeger drop t case and heavy exhaust mods
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if you guys really hate buying it so much, get a bigger tank and stop resetting the trip mileage and just drive.
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And that's a 600 cfm Holley and you've got it mounted backwards
88 2wd 2.9
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:47 PM   #14
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Default 98+ sas question

anyone know if you have to remove/make new engine cross member to do a radius arm sas on a 99? the cross member hangs down alot due to rack and pinion steering setup. Im concerned about the panhard bar interfering. will be around 7-9" of lift. i havent got the d60 yet and am just grinding all the useless stuff off the frame so im wondering if i should ditch the factory member or not. thanx

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Old 12-20-2009, 08:54 PM   #15
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You don't have to remove it, but building around it with adequate clearance's will make the truck quite tall. If you can support the engine and build a new much higher clearance cross member you would be a lot better off.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:59 PM   #16
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the motor doesnt bolt to it so i can take it out and rebuild without too much trouble. just thought if i didnt have to i wouldnt.
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:42 PM   #17
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the motor doesnt bolt to it so i can take it out and rebuild without too much trouble. just thought if i didnt have to i wouldnt.
as far as i know everyone that has done a SAS on 98+ rangers have completely removed the crossmember you are refering to. Mine is gone and has not had any problems so far. heres a link, maybe it will help a little
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=62598
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Old 12-21-2009, 03:03 PM   #18
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anyone else think removing the crossmember and not replacing it is a bad idea? keep in mind 5.0l and 40"s. im concerned about the frame twisting under load. thanx
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Old 12-21-2009, 03:15 PM   #19
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I know you will need to remove it but you definatly need to replace it. I did on mine with a 2'' by 2'' 1/4'' walled piece in the front where the bumper use to be and also bent a piece of tubing that hugs the oil pan and bolts to the engine motor mounts are.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:24 PM   #20
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if anyone has pics of what they did please pm to me
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