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Old 02-24-2009, 09:14 AM   #11
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better to be thorough than halfassed imo.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:56 PM   #12
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I was going to ask you sludge if you could get a picture of the cam syncro sensor shaft because i'm hearing a squeaky noise and it's not the belt.
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What is that, a 351? You don't need a chain hoist for anything that small. Just get in there and man-handle that bitch. Punch its valve covers in and then bite it on the EGR valve.
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Old 02-25-2009, 12:24 AM   #13
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i scoured the shop today and couldnt turn up any old cam syncro shafts. they get replaced pretty regularly around here so when one shows up ill try to remember to snag it before it gets tossed.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:51 AM   #14
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Wicked do some of the cam syncro shafts come with either a brass or bronse gear on the bottom that is known to fail also? My 97 ranger 3.0 can a code for a cam possision sensor a while ago. When I pulled the shaft to inspect everything, the sensor was broken on the bottom, that metal flag had broken off, and the bronse gear that rides on the cam had the teeth worn almost completely off it only on 1 side like the bearings were bad or somthing. Is this a common problem also?
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked_Sludge View Post
with pleasure, and i appologize in advance for being long winded:

starting in 1995, the vulcan recieved a distributorless ignition system (DIS). this system uses a set of positioning sensors, one on the engines crankshaft and one on the engines camshaft, to determine when to fire the spark plugs. since the oil pump is driven by the camshaft via the distributor on this (and many "V" pushrod engines), ford could not completely do away with the distributor. the bottom half that engages the camshaft and drives the oil pump would have to remain (less ford redesign the entire block). since the bottom half of the distributor would have to remain anyway, the easiest way to retrieve a camshaft position signal would be to mount a sensor right on top of this "cam syncro shaft".

the cam syncro shaft has a small metal flag on the top of it. the camshaft position sensor bolts to the top of the cam syncro shaft, and this metal flag passes through the sensor...in this way the engine knows exactly where the cam is in its rotation (and thus, when the #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke).

heres where we get into trouble.

the cam syncro shaft rides on a set of bushings. for some reason (and this doesnt appear to be a problem on distributored engines for some reason), these bushings seem to wear prematurely, thus allowing the cam syncro shaft to wobble. at this point, the cam syncro shaft will usually emit a noise very similar to a belt squeel (but not always). if left unchecked, the bushings will continue to wear to the point where the metal flag that is supposed to pass through the cam position sensor contacts the sensor. this puts a sudden hault on the cam syncro shaft. the gear that engages the camshaft itself is nylon, and attached the the cam syncro shaft with a roll pin. the force of the cam syncro being stopped and the cam still spinning either rips the teeth off the nylon gear or sheers the roll pin...either case causes the cam syncro shaft to disengage the cam. with the syncro shaft no longer turning, the oil pump is no longer turning, thus oil pressure drops to zero.

it can take a matter of seconds to completely destroy an engine while driving at highway speeds with highway loads and no oil pressure. even if you see the oil light come on, you might not be able to safely pull over and shut the truck down in time to save the engine.

my truck, being a '93, doesnt have this problem. but if i had a DIS 3.0, heres what i would do: if buying a DIS 3.0 with more than 80K miles on it, replace the syncro shaft. after that, pull the syncro and check it at 50K miles and replace again every 100K miles. dont ignore squeeks or long engine cranking times, as these can be indicative of cam sensor or cam syncro problems. if your oil light comes on while driving, as soon as its safe to do so, put the truck in nuetral, turn the ignition off, and coast to a stop. these trucks (that being rangers in general, not just the 3.0) are known for having flakey oil pressure sending units that like to give false low readings. your next step in this situation would be to varify either low oil pressure or a bad sending unit and take appropriate action.

tomorrow, i will try to remember to look around the shop and see if i can find an old cam syncro shaft lying around to take a picture of.

again, sorry for being long winded. i hope i covered everything.
Addition to the tech page maybe?
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:36 PM   #16
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Is there times were it squeaks and then it doesn't?
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What is that, a 351? You don't need a chain hoist for anything that small. Just get in there and man-handle that bitch. Punch its valve covers in and then bite it on the EGR valve.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:40 PM   #17
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Addition to the tech page maybe?
id like to do a more complete write up with pictures and diagrams before it gets added to the tech pages.

1badexplorer, i dont think ive seen the syncros with bronze gears, fords are nylon. yours was probably aftermarket. it sounds like you got very lucky. rather than ruining the gear or roll pin, it destroyed your cam position sensor itself, meaning your oil pump kept turning. i wonder if maybe aftermarket sensors with bronze gears are less prone to completely failing and stopping the oil pump...hmmmm....

tom, the squeek can be intermittant. your best bet is just to poke your head under there while its running (and squeeking) and see if the squeek is coming from the front or rear of the engine. if its coming from the rear chances are your cam syncro is going out.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:52 PM   #18
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How hard is it to replace? Sometimes I hear a noise thats like a squeaky belt but it's not all the time.
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What is that, a 351? You don't need a chain hoist for anything that small. Just get in there and man-handle that bitch. Punch its valve covers in and then bite it on the EGR valve.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:54 PM   #19
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very simple, as long as you mark everything before you remove it.

the syncro shaft and cam sensor have to be timed, just like a distributor. ford makes a special service tool for doing this...but as long as you orient the new syncro the same as the old one, you will be fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hahnsb2 View Post
Dyno sheet or GTFO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger Dave (B25) View Post
The call was for scantily-clad women. A Certificate of Boob Authenticity was NOT specified.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Imahara
I'm not sure if we have the right stuff; I'm just hoping we don't have the wrong stuff.
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:26 PM   #20
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How much would a dealership charge to replace it? i'd be too tempted to dig in further, i also have a knock, lol.
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What is that, a 351? You don't need a chain hoist for anything that small. Just get in there and man-handle that bitch. Punch its valve covers in and then bite it on the EGR valve.
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