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Old 04-04-2009, 10:05 PM   #31
Geeshik
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Default Yes, it's true.

i've seen it with my own two eyes. Wicked, the reason yours probably aren't leaking is there is still some of the factory goo on the bolts you removed. Mine had a red-colored sealant on them that seemed okay to re-install. Just to be safe, i wrapped a little teflon tape around them.

If you are careful with the oil pan gasket, you don't have to remove the oil pan; just the two bolts that attach to the timing cover.

i didn't have a harmonic balancer puller, but i removed the balancer with a steering wheel puller, and i just used the bolts that held the pulley on to pull against. Also, for some reason the auto parts places didn't have a harmonic balancer installer. i ended up getting a wheel stud from napa to re-install the balancer. i put the balancer washer on, put the stud in the crank, and used a vice grip to turn it in. It worked slick. The stud part # was BK 641-3160With tax, it came to about $3.30. If you're real ambitious, you could grind two flats on the end of the stud and use a wrench, but the vice-grip worked fine.
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Old 01-08-2010, 06:38 PM   #32
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Just joined this forum. Reason? I too had the timing cover gasket of my 2000 Ford Taurus SE w/3.0 litre Vulcan engine leaking coolant. Searched the internet doing research and found all the good advice on this forum.

So here is my story: The coolant leak from Front Cover / Timing Cover gasket on my 3.0 litre V6 Taurus has been going for about one and a half years now. Started, I estimate, around 120,000 km. Now, Jan 2010, at around 175,000 km the leak became more steady and increased in volume enough to "have to fix it".

Up until now it has been a small leak, and intermittent, not such a big problem - so I just lived with it. Strange - it would leak some - and then very little at all for a couple months, then leak again a bunch, then stop completely again, then start up again a month later - very randomly. So I just monitored carefully and topped up fluid as needed. Watched the oil to make sure no coolant was getting into the oil - which could ruin the engine.

I tried the radiator "stop leak" back a year and a half ago - and that helped for awhile - But I DO NOT RECOMMEND anyone else use rad stop leak. It ends up plugging up your heater core eventually - leaving no heat - and requiring a professional "rad system and separate heater core flush". Rad Stop is a half ass solution - and does not seem to work completely for this problem.

DO NOT USE RAD STOP LEAK - It causes other issues, problems and expense.

The problem with this trouble is ... the leak drips down on the hot exhaust (catalytic convertor?) just below, and creates a stinking antifreeze steam which percolates up into the engine compartment and is probably toxic to breath. The ventilation / heater system sucks that toxic steam back into the car (esp when stopped at the light) and you breath it. Not good. Who knows what other trouble this toxic steam will cause in the engine compartment ...

So when the leak gets bad enough ... you must fix it properly ... not to mention the nuisance factor of the leaking coolant and checking and topping up coolant constantly ... and the environment pollution factor too. And frying your brains with toxic steam getting inside the car.

I had it done at a nearby garage since I did not want to try and tackle it myself - no way. It was an expensive repair since there was a fair bit of labour involved. And crap, some of the FORD parts were expensive.

(I was told some dealerships say "you need a new cover, cause the old one is too pitted and corroded" and that aluminum cover is VERY expensive... beware of that trick.)

A new water pump was recommended and installed at the same time. Worth it at this time. New water pump gasket - obviously. New crankshaft seal on the cover - obviously. The oil pan gasket was "chewed up" and had to be replaced ... so ... the oil pan had to come off... and that oil pan gasket was EXPENSIVE - around $120 bucks Canadian. So I assume the Y-pipe for the exhaust had to come off to be able to get the oil pan off the car.

Yes, the mechanic had the right front wheel off the car, the car partly up on the hoist, and the plastic fender well pulled back to work on it.

I asked the mechanic what gasket sealer they use and what thread sealer they use. ANS: Silicone Sealant and Loctite Blue for the threads. I tried to confirm this with a FORD Dealership to make sure - and they agreed / concurred - silicone sealant and loctite blue is what they use / should be O.K. Still not 100% convinced this is the "BEST" stuff to use there ... but it looks like that's what was used ... and we'll have to see how that goes in time.

Holy crap I'm not impressed with this particular "Timing Cover gasket Leak" issue on the Ford Taurus 3.0 litre. It was an expensive, labour intensive and time consuming repair. We're talking greater than $1300 Canadian and two days in the shop. But, no question, this repair had to be done at this point, practically, in order to keep the vehicle on the road.

Otherwise - they claim / I read / that the 3.0 litre V6 Vulcan Engine is very good - has a very long life if properly treated and maintained. We'll see.

It seems this coolant leak is a common enough problem on this engine. Not good ... The shop says they see it ocassionally. "Just did one last week ..."

Some other things that do not impress me about my 2000 Taurus either. Major things like Suspension Springs broke. Ball joints are sealed, can not be greased / lubed, and do wear out prematurely - wearing tires if not fixed, requiring expensive work, and multiple alignments afterwards. Struts seem to wear out early. Air conditioning - forget it - not working and not fixing it either - I don't care. I'll mention also that stupid "PTPFE Sensor" or whatever it's called that everyone has trouble with. It's some stupid $140 sensor that controls EGR - exhaust gas recirculation function- that gets wet or damp and fails and keeps the FORD "idiot" engine light on. I read alot on that sensor issue - very common. And 80 bucks just to read an engine code at the Dealership - that's BS - and I told them so straight.

(FORD - still with the idiot "engine" light - still - since the 1970's - you'd think they'd have something better by now ... like an LCD display on the dash or behind a flip up cover ...telling you what the code is ... and if it's serious or not - and giving you the option to acknowledge it, and supress it for now - so you don't HIDE other new "CODES" or warnings ...what BS .)

Then there's the stupid plastic coolant filler bottle part that Ford charges around $200 for - that cracks on everyone after a few years, and leaks coolant and must be replaced.

I like the car overall - very practical - but those are some of the major issues that I'm not too impressed about on my car.

I'm going to have another nice "TALK" with the Ford Dealership where I purchased this car. ( I've had one of these "Talks" already. )

This particular FORD Dealership itself is excellent ... I just think the product itself is lacking in a few key respects. Some parts are lacking the QUALITY required. And the price of some parts - outrageous. I guess that's FORD corporate.

ALL manufacturers and vehicles have their issues. I hear it from everyone.

These are the ones I'm having with my 2000 FORD TAURUS SE, 3.0 L V6.

My car vented (coolant) ... and now I've vented too.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:10 PM   #33
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the long bolts on either side of the timing cover go all the way thru. after you clean the bolt threads put a small "dab" of silicone on the threads then run them in before silicone sets-up. or put a copper washer on the bolts. i prefer the silicone.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:25 PM   #34
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Ooops, I forgot the sealant on my bolts when I replaced my timing cover gasket over a year ago. The one thing that got me was that when I put the timing cover back on it leaked oil until I finally crawled back under there a year later and put a dab of silicone on the oil pan gasket where it ripped.

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Old 01-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #35
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You will need to pull fan, radiator, belt, alternator, water pump, loosen the oil pan after removing the starter. the only real b**** is the a/c p/s bracket there are two bolts accessed from dr side, then one almost directly behind tensioner pulley. on re-assy clean all timing chain cover and h2o pump bolts. i like a "dab of silicone on the threads (long bolts) to seal water jacket. The removal of the balancer os fairly easy, the act of getting her back on os a tad more fun just do not hit balancer directly with B.F.H. i found out the hard way had to put a file to it so as to get crank pulley to seat. Good Luck.

Last edited by basketranger; 01-08-2010 at 09:27 PM. Reason: missed a key word and comma
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:47 PM   #36
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+ OIL CHANGE RECOMMENDED
They also recommended - no matter what - do an engine oil & filter change after this work - ask no questions - in case of any contamination of the engine oil.

So I said O.K. - do the engine oil and filter change

+COOLANT ADDITIVE RECOMMENDED
An estimate a year ago from the Ford Dealership also recommended a Ford Coolant Additive of some sort ... possibly an additive to help reduce corrosion and/or lubricant properties for the water pump. Not sure exactly.

consider adding those items to the procedure ... to the possible list.
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