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pinion angle with 8.8


notw

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I read about having a 6° pinion angle.....I just did my 8.8 swap for my 302 build.....I did the no weld spring under swap with the explorer springs mine is 2wd and I wanted the 4" drop and got just thats what I got...only thing is it looks like pinion angle is excessive haven't been able to check it yet with a digital level but looks like too much I will post a pic anyone else had any issues?
[/URL][/IMG]. Note that front end is in the clouds with factory springs and no Engine this may be why it looks so bad but still seems excessive
 


notw

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[/URL][/IMG]
 

notw

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[/URL][/IMG]
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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monstermazda

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It will be worse when you put everything back on it and the bed will help some of the angle

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

notw

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That picture is also a little deceiving it amplifies the effect.....it was hard to get a picture that was a good representation
 

faststang90

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you need to have every thing in. I had mine break because the rear end was down and so was the transmission so it was. it was pushing the tail housing down. I cant find it now but I was told if the transmission is down 3 degrees then the rear end needs to be up the same.

 

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Il look at it when all is installed in a few months...I definitely have the up covered the more I look at it the more I think it is OK.....it's set up on factory explorer perches
 

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A Bronco II can look like that, but it looks like a lot for a Ranger. Like everyone said--you need it all together and sitting like it will sit when you drive it. Then match the axle angle to the transfercase angle. It doesn't have to be perfect, but it has to be close.
 

faststang90

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this is what i looked at

this is what I looked at when I set mine. I had to had angled shims under the rear end to get the right angle. so far it has worked the truck is doing 1.5? 60 foots at the track leaving off the foot brake.
 

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don4331

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Sad part is that diagram is actually wrong in a 2 of 4 cases...

You never want perfect inline - it will eat u joints as the needles in the u-joint are stationary, so never get lubed quickly get pounded flat as a result. Example would be IFS in Ranger needs slight offset (which Ford built in).

So, case 2 is the ideal.

They got case 3 right.

Case 4 is largely wrong because of how it is drawn, with the transmission to driveshaft and the driveshaft to pinion having the same angles. That actually works just fine. (The minimal length version of this example is a CV and we know we install those to eliminate strain/vibration). If it was better drawn - so that the angles at the 2 ends were different, then it would correctly illustrate the point they were trying to make.

And they missed case 5 where the ends of the driveshaft are rotated 90* to each other, which is bad. (When I went to fix u-joints on my truck last week, I found the driveshaft assembled that way. I pulled it apart and re-assembled in phase - unfortunate consequence of even number of splines on the slip joint/people not knowing what they were doing during assembly).
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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You never want perfect inline - it will eat u joints as the needles in the u-joint are stationary, so never get lubed quickly get pounded flat as a result. Example would be IFS in Ranger needs slight offset (which Ford built in).
I would think that normal suspension movement would take care of any lubrication problems.
 

don4331

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With a solid axle or ttb, there would be enough suspension movement; but the ifs front differential is mounted, solid to the frame (more/less). Same thing for t-bird/mustand irs.

I picked my example very carefully. :)
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Good point. I don't own either example so didn't think of that.
 

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