90 2.9 Ranger crank no start

90 2.9 Ranger crank no start

Well... my 90 Ranger's 2.9 is cranking and not starting. Over 12v at the battery thru to the coil and plugs. I need to get ahold of fuel pressure gauge soon theres pressurized fuel at the schrader, I've replaced all of the ignition including coil short of the actual distributor below cap and rotor in tune up. Grounded plugs spark looks good to me. That took care of code 14 , still has code 21 and 24 in OBD1 test mode. ETC and IAC just had both sent to store online, picking up after work. My first question in what I fear a series of questions is, will these sensors somehow cause/contribute to crank no start condition? Also bought a thermostat for the hell of it obviously thats not related but in the area. It looks like there is a second coolant sensor drivers also might replace that too. Was thinking of buying fuel filter after pressure test later. Any input or suggestions? Greatly appreciate any and all help.

I don't know much about the 2.9. but with my 3.0 I've had numerous occasions of that situation. All were due to plugged fuel injectors. If I cranked it enough, it would eventually start. Many times I needed jumper cables and another vehicle to crank it long enough to get it to fire.

Here's what I was told was happening. A hard glaze formed on the injectors. When running, the glaze is soft and the fuel can get through it. When cold, the fuel has to beat a hole in it causes tit hardens when cold.

I tried many injector cleaners, and found the only one strong enough was Berryman's B12. It has acetone, methanol, MEK and Toluene as the active ingredients. When mine was refusing to start, I was running two cans in a full tank. Recently I've been experimenting with running ethanol based fuel, and it is working swell. Haven't had another occasion of the sort you mention since January. I know some don't like ethanol based fuel, but it is one potent, and cheap, injector cleaner.

Not saying this is your problem. But it's something to consider. Mine had me puling my hair out in early January, after installing a new fuel pump and filter. When I gave up and had it towed to my local dealer, they did diagnostics and found the injectors were putting out poorly. They ran a powerful cleaner through it and got it running fine. A week later it started doing it again. Been running the ethanol based fuel ever since. No problems and no codes from it's use.

First thing to do with a "Crank but No Start" is 50/50 test

Manually add fuel to the intake manifold and see if engine fires/starts

Pull off the Air Tube on the intake
Open throttle and spray gasoline or Ether(Quick Start) into the intake
(you can leave the air tube off if it won't hit fan blades)
Try to start engine

If it starts then dies, fuel delivery is your problem
If it doesn't start then spark is the problem
50/50, done and dun'er

Having spark at a spark plug was never a good test, spark has to be "timed" or won't help engine start, just FYI, doesn't hurt to know you have spark but still leaves the door open for spark timing issue

If engine starts and then dies you can check if there is fuel pressure by pressing down on the center pin of the Schrader Valve(same as tires air valve) on the Fuel rail, don't need a gauge for a No Start, if no fuel pressure then No Start, engine cutting out under load or at highway speeds requires gauge to test for low pressure under load.

Ford computer will Prime the fuel system for 2 seconds when key is turned on.
So when you first turn on the key you can hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run for 2 seconds, it is not quiet, HUMMM can be heard in the cab, turn down the Radio
Turn key on and off as much as needed to either confirm you hear it or decide you don't hear anything

Yeah I was more interested in spark because of code 14. ether in the intake resulted only in a pop crank no start. Was grasping at straws before dealing with timing. The schrader let out fuel but im not sure if it was enough fuel. Seems to me like multiple issues.

So just a pop means coil is just sparking the one time which it always does if it getting any power.

Any fuel pressure will allow engine to start, may not run well but will start

So yes a spark problem

Code 14 means TFI module PIP signal is not stable at the computer end

Inside the distributor is the electronic "points", a hall effect sensor that sends a pulse(PIP) to TFI module on the side of the distributor, each time it reads a timing mark on the distributor "cam".
So exactly the same setup as the old mechanical points system but without the hassle of resetting the gap all the time.

The TFI gets power with key on and it in turns power the Hall Effect sensor in distributor

Good test for TFI here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Print out the worksheet and go step by step.

TFI system does not need computer to start spark or to keep engine running, so even with a bad wire from TFI to computer engine should start with 50/50 test, and then die, see below
Computer does need TFI's PIP pulse to time fuel injectors, so it won't open injectors until it has a good PIP pulse, so if engine starts and dies if could be bad wire from TFI to computer, long shot.

So if there's a no start after adding ether/fuel manually then TFI or Hall effect sensor is the problem.
Might not be a bad part, usually isn't, more likely to be a bad connection.

Also just to take it off the table, pop distributor cap and look at where the rotor is pointed, bump the starter motor then look again to make sure distributor is turning, you can waste a few hours troubleshooting a bad distributor gear

Thanks RonD gonna get to testing the TFI. Fuel seems to be a problem as well I don't get 35 psi key on engine off, more like 10psi. Jumped fuel pump and pushed it to 45. Gonna change fuel filter, does this sound like a regulator problem?

Each time key is turned on the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds, but only 2 seconds

This will add about 10psi of pressure

The fuel system should hold pressure for MONTHS, not minutes, hours or days...........MONTHS

FPR(fuel pressure regulator) is set for about 40-45psi, it has a spring and valve inside, spring is pushed open at say 45psi, then at 44psi spring pushes valve closed again, to hold that pressure in the system.
So did that 45psi hold after fuel pump was shut off?

The fuel pump itself has a Check Valve(back flow preventer), it is basically just a flap on the outlet of the pump that is pushed open when pump is on and then is pushed closed by the pressure when pump is off.
So the FPR and fuel pump hold the pressure in the system......for MONTHS

This is why the fuel pump only needs to run for 2 seconds with key on, just to "top up" pressure that should already be there

If pressure isn't holding then there is a leak.
If there is a leaky fuel line you would most likely smell the gasoline
If fuel injector was leaking you would notice rough running and Rich running, you could also remove intake's air tube and run fuel pump to get pressure up, then open throttle and smell for gasoline, if injector was leaking you would smell it.

Unfortunately the usual cause for loss of pressure is the check valve inside the fuel pump, but you could remove Return Fuel line on the FPR, cycle the key on and off two times, to get 20psi and see if FPR is leaking pressure, put a towel down just in case

So update... still not running fixed fuel system leak on fuel line near regulator. Pressure holds. Tfi i think tested good some of the resistances were a couple 10ths decimal off tho. Pulled injectors fuel rail tested injectors with 12 volts also cleaned them, good. Did a compression test motor is worn 95 across dry except cyl #1 65 psi. That's over 30% dif Thinking its toast, 65 is too low to start in cyl 1 isn't it. They should all be 100 min right?

Older 2.9l should be 150-160psi
2.9l has 9.0:1 compression ratio, multiplier is 18(15psi outside air pressure + 3 for mechanical compression)

18 X 9 = 162psi

100psi is very very low

It should start if you use Quick Start(ether) in a spray can

Reason you need higher compression
Liquid gasoline won't ignite with a spark, yes movie guys get that wrong, lol
Only Gasoline vapor can be ignited by a spark
Fuel injectors(or Jets) don't vaporize gasoline, they spray liquid gasoline
Gasoline vaporizes at a low temperature, which is why you smell it pretty easily and why it feels cold on your skin, evaporates fast.

On a warm engine gasoline vaporizes as it enters a cylinder
On a cold engine it doesn't, thats where compression comes in
Compression heats the gasoline to get more vapor, the higher the compression the more heat there is so the more vapor there is.
Cold gasoline is about 10% vapor
You need about 30% vapor to get a spark to ignite the rest
You don't need 3 times as much gasoline, because compression will cause more vapor, but 1.5 to 2 times is sometimes needed

FYI, that's what a Choke Plate did on an carb, caused more gasoline to be sucked into the engine to get that 30% vapor point to start cold engine.
Fuel injection computers add more gasoline to cold engine to get it to 30%, that's what the ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is for

Ether(quick start) has a much lower vapor point so as soon as you spray it in it is pretty much all vapor so spark plug can ignite it, and once engine starts cylinders get very hot very fast so can now vaporize the gasoline, even with lower compression.

I would retest compression
ALL spark plugs must be out to test compression
Battery needs to be charged
You need good crank speed from starter motor to get valid compression PSI

Since your compression is fairly even across the cylinder could just be a low gauge or ??

Well with ether it pops for a few rotations and then flames shoot out of intake. So I'm not sure what to do next, wondering if timing is off valves are toast? Gonna get a timing light to use while cranking to check on that. I know timing can affect compression but not this drastically (90psi)while your saying 160 psi per cylinder. As for compression test, all plugs were removed battery is being jumpered by another car 13 to 14 volts while cranking on brand new starter, throttle open. As far as compression gauge mine read 90 psi except cyl 1 (65 psi), the 2nd gauge from oreillys read 0psi gotta get another one lol. How many teeth can the chain skip,drop in psi per cylinder before it blows on these things, prolly swap time?

Cam/valve timing that is quite off can certainly cause compression numbers that low, or lower. This can be completely independent of spark timing.

It would be good to check the timing, and either confirm that it's correct, or correct it if it's wrong.

If you find the timing is off, then do a new compression test once timing is corrected.

I had the same issue with my 89. I replaced all the relays (fuel, starter etc). solenoid, ignition module,new FP regulator, fuel filter, plugs/cap/rotor/wires, etc. I was not getting any fuel to the injectors. put a new fuel pump, TPS, IACV, EGR, you name it. Parts weren't too bad to replace... but did add up when I had the ECU replaced/reflashed. So much for my income tax return lol.

For me... after that much money spent, I found it there was a fuel cutoff switch on the passenger side floor panel that was somehow engaged and not fuel was getting to the engine.

May not be the case here, but it wouldn't hurt checking it out.