Header Options

I know stock replacement headers are limited. Torque Monster is the only one I have heard of. And I hear they are no longer building them.

Are there any other direct replacement options like the TMH headers?

Otherwise, if I want headers building a new exhaust system would be the only option. In this case, what headers would be a good part to start with? I know nothing will fit like the TMH headers, but I still have the heater and A/C and am not willing to give that up for headers.

Lastly, I eventually want to put aluminum heads on my engine eventually.
If I had a set of Torque Monster headers, would they work with the aluminum head swap? As far as I know, the aluminum heads are based off of GT40 heads and my engine has GT40P heads. That is where I could see issues coming from, using GT40P exhaust headers on regular GT40 heads.

I went with custom built at a shop. It depends how deep your pockets are I guess.... they were a set of BBK longs he used, the drivers side went pretty easy (slight modification needed) the passenger was the prob. Custom steering shaft was placed in there and also mini high torque starter. the frame is boxed so it was a ton of cutting and re-welding for the passenger side to clear the frame. trans is a 4 auto aod early version not the complicated one.

Nightbiker07 said:

I know stock replacement headers are limited. Torque Monster is the only one I have heard of. And I hear they are no longer building them.

Are there any other direct replacement options like the TMH headers?

Otherwise, if I want headers building a new exhaust system would be the only option. In this case, what headers would be a good part to start with? I know nothing will fit like the TMH headers, but I still have the heater and A/C and am not willing to give that up for headers.

Lastly, I eventually want to put aluminum heads on my engine eventually.
If I had a set of Torque Monster headers, would they work with the aluminum head swap? As far as I know, the aluminum heads are based off of GT40 heads and my engine has GT40P heads. That is where I could see issues coming from, using GT40P exhaust headers on regular GT40 heads.

Click to expand...

The OBX headers are available now again on eBay. They are TMH knock offs. There is another thread currently on these headers a few lines down the forum. The TMH will work with AFR aluminum heads.

Nightbiker07 said:

I know stock replacement headers are limited. Torque Monster is the only one I have heard of. And I hear they are no longer building them.

Are there any other direct replacement options like the TMH headers?

Otherwise, if I want headers building a new exhaust system would be the only option. In this case, what headers would be a good part to start with? I know nothing will fit like the TMH headers, but I still have the heater and A/C and am not willing to give that up for headers.

Lastly, I eventually want to put aluminum heads on my engine eventually.
If I had a set of Torque Monster headers, would they work with the aluminum head swap? As far as I know, the aluminum heads are based off of GT40 heads and my engine has GT40P heads. That is where I could see issues coming from, using GT40P exhaust headers on regular GT40 heads.

Click to expand...

The exhaust ports will line up the same on P and non-P heads, the issue with P head fitment is that the spark plugs are at an angle instead of straight. So any 302 header will bolt up to either head, it's a matter of the sparkplug boots fitting without hitting the runners when using either type header on the other type of head.

I will be finding out soon once I do a test fit as I will be using TW heads and P headers and keeping a/c and heaterbox still.

Angie said:

I went with custom built at a shop. It depends how deep your pockets are I guess.... they were a set of BBK longs he used, the drivers side went pretty easy (slight modification needed) the passenger was the prob. Custom steering shaft was placed in there and also mini high torque starter. the frame is boxed so it was a ton of cutting and re-welding for the passenger side to clear the frame. trans is a 4 auto aod early version not the complicated one.

Click to expand...

The OP has an 02 SLA frame, totally different animal than the 83-97 ibeam frames..

2Krngr said:

The OP has an 02 SLA frame, totally different animal than the 83-97 ibeam frames..

Click to expand...

Ahhhh i didn't see that in the sig, nor did I know of the difference in frames in the years of the trucks. thanks for the knowledge cheers

Bought the OBX headers. Very nice build quality.

DO NOT BOTHER trying to install without a ARP header bolt kit. You NEED to have the smaller headed bolts in order for a socket to fit onto the bolt. Otherwise, the header pipe is in the way. and even trying to use a wrench is futile.
There is NO way for a set of stock replacement headers to have any larger diameter pipes. And I can definitely see how installing a set of long tube or even shorty headers would be an absolute nightmare on this truck.

I had to "clearance" the firewall on the drivers side to get them to fit, remove spark plugs and disconnect steering shaft for installation. But, my motor sits back a little farther than it should due to other clearance issues in the build.

Havent tried the passenger side yet, waiting for my bolt kit to arrive.

I also understand why the drivers side is a two-piece unit. No way in hell would you get it down into the hole without MAJOR disassembly otherwise.

Great product!

Nightbiker07 said:

Bought the OBX headers. Very nice build quality.

DO NOT BOTHER trying to install without a ARP header bolt kit. You NEED to have the smaller headed bolts in order for a socket to fit onto the bolt. Otherwise, the header pipe is in the way. and even trying to use a wrench is futile.
There is NO way for a set of stock replacement headers to have any larger diameter pipes. And I can definitely see how installing a set of long tube or even shorty headers would be an absolute nightmare on this truck.

I had to "clearance" the firewall on the drivers side to get them to fit, remove spark plugs and disconnect steering shaft for installation. But, my motor sits back a little farther than it should due to other clearance issues in the build.

Havent tried the passenger side yet, waiting for my bolt kit to arrive.

I also understand why the drivers side is a two-piece unit. No way in hell would you get it down into the hole without MAJOR disassembly otherwise.

Great product!

Click to expand...

Great info! Any chance you could post up some pics?

Passenger side is a complete trip.

I had to clearance several of the pipes near the bolts with a hammer.

And any of the coil spring swap guys are in for a real treat, your motor mount conversion plate will need some heavy trimming.

Regardless of anything else, you will need to unbolt the engine and jack it up several inches in order to weasel the header into the hole. I took off the alternator as well, you may be able to make it work, but I doubt it.


All said and done, if you were installing on an explorer, it would go smoother. most of the major headaches were ranger swap related. Except for having to pound on the primaries near the bolts. That was initial construction issues. The biggest problem I have with the clearancing is that I would only find out that additional hammering was needed after weaseling the header down into the hole, getting all the bolts started and trying to tighten them all..........

took me about 60 hours to do this project because of all the time lost dealing with every little issue one at a time. Now that its all together, they fit great. but getting there was a journey.

Final tip: Throw the gaskets away that they include with these and buy some fel-pro gaskets. You wont regret it.


Do they look good in there? Yes.
Does the truck sound better? Yes.
Does it run better? Yes
Better mileage? Will know more after PCM tune.

Would I do this project again? NO. Unless you have forced induction, there isnt a need if you are running the cast manifolds. The time/money invested are not worth the returns IMO. At $300 for a set, they would be if you arent afraid to spend a lot of time doing it. But not pushing $600/set. Maybe my setup just gave me more trouble than most, IDK.