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2002 Ranger Edge 4x4 4.0L inertia switch location?


Jeff02Edge

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Forgive me if this isn't in the right location, I viewed the forum list and didn't see anything regarding fuel related(I could have missed it), I also tried the search and didn't find anything specific to my year Ranger.

My truck died a few days ago after I was backing out of a parking lot and hasn't started since. I've since read about the inertia switch, but haven't found it in my truck (without tearing it apart too much) after a couple minutes.

I was carrying 5 gallon water jugs in the front seat of my truck when one rolled onto the passenger floor, just as the truck died, I didn't realize it could have tripped this switch.

I read it's usually on the passenger side somewhere, and I've pulled the plastic away from most of the front area (where your feet would be), and haven't found the switch. I would rather know exactly where it was before I try again. Since I can't move the truck right now, it's in my way over crowded garage and very hard to get into the passenger door without knocking stuff over.

So, if anyone could please share the location of this switch ad how to access it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

Jeff
 


RonD

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Inertia switch passes power to the fuel pump, if tripped it will cut power, it has a reset button on the top, which will be raised if it was tripped.

First turn on the key with door open and listen for the fuel pump, it should come on for 2 seconds each time key is turned on.
If you hear it then inertia switch isn't the problem, for sure.

2003 Ranger location seen here: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/41yoh-where-s-inertia-switch-located.html

It didn't move around much from year to year, either located just above passengers feet or toward the top behind the kick panel passenger side.
 
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Jeff02Edge

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Thanks RonD. I found the switch and it was depressed. I did what you said and turned the key on with the door open, and heard a kind of whiney sound (like a servo motor) that didn't last too long, I figured that was the fuel pump. However when I removed the 20A fuse and relay for the fuel pump, the same sound was made when turning on the key.

I am going to go get some starter fluid and see if she will fire that way. That's about as far as I can test things on my own. I am hoping it's spark more than fuel because my buddy doesn't want to work on it in my garage and I can't afford a 30 mile tow on top of everything else this truck may need once he tears into it.

Thanks again.
 

RonD

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Starting fluid is always a good idea, tells you right away if it is spark or fuel.

On the intake's fuel rail there is a schrader valve(like a tires air valve), it is for testing fuel pressure.
It usually has a cap on it like a tires valve "should" lol.
You can test fuel pressure just by pushing in the center pin, but BE CAREFUL!
There should be 60+psi of pressure in there so it can shoot out 30ft.

Are you sure the engine didn't stall first and the the bottle of water rolled?
 

jeremysdad

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Starting fluid is a bad idea if timing is out of whack. Ether makes a huge fireball when it burps back into your face. If you must use starting fluid, follow the directions on the can. Even then, I don't care for it. Washes the oil off the cylinder walls, but I'll digress. There are better ways to add fuel to a motor for testing purposes.

And the 'BE CAREFUL', I will agree with. Ain't nothing quite as satisfying as a gasoline facial...unless you're smoking when it happens, or an idiot friend lights a cigarette at the wrong time. lol
 

Jeff02Edge

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Thanks guys. Apparently, there is no spark. I took the top of my airbox off, sprayed some of the starter fluid into the ~4" tube that goes to the intake, and nothing. Didn't sputter or do anything but turn over like without the starter fluid. I had that starter fluid taste in my mouth for about an hour, man that stuff just wreaks.

The water jug and the truck dying must have been a coincidence / wishful thinking that it would be a very simple fix.

I read about the schrader valve and I guess I can "rent" or borrow a fuel pressure gauge from an auto parts store. Doesn't the engine need to be turning over to test the fuel pressure?

I was going to get a spark tester at the same time.
 

jeremysdad

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No, the pump should build pressure without the motor running. It's electronic, it only requires the key to be on.

For spark tester...Pull a wire off off the easiest spark plug you can remove...remove that spark plug from the cylinder head...insert said plug back into the wire you removed earlier...hold the 'L' shaped end of the plug (ground strap) near any good bare metal ground...have assistant crank engine. You'll know in 4 cranks if it has enough spark to make a fire.

:beer:
 

RonD

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'02 4.0l SOHC will have ICM(ignition control module) in the Computer , it controls the 3 coils in the coil pack.

First thing I would do is check if the coil pack is getting 12volts.
Coil has a 4 wire connector, unplug it, Red wire should have 12v when key is on.

That 12v comes from the Power Box in engine bay, it has a 25amp fuse I believe
Always check fuses, it is a pain but easy to do.

Spark won't start until computer(ICM) gets a signal from the CKP(crank position) sensor, it is located behind the main crank pulley
CKP sensors rarely fail, I have only come across 1, but if you have fuel and coil has power then you are down to computer/ICM failure or CKP sensor
Test for CKP sensor here: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802c54e2


One other thing is the PATS(passive anti-theft system), it will cause a no start for sure, that is its purpose, but it should cause flashing "theft" light if there was a problem, but if there is a fault...............???
Do you have a second PATS key to try?
 
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Jeff02Edge

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'02 4.0l SOHC will have ICM(ignition control module) in the Computer , it controls the 3 coils in the coil pack.

First thing I would do is check if the coil pack is getting 12volts.
Coil has a 4 wire connector, unplug it, Red wire should have 12v when key is on.

That 12v comes from the Power Box in engine bay, it has a 25amp fuse I believe
Always check fuses, it is a pain but easy to do.

Spark won't start until computer(ICM) gets a signal from the CKP(crank position) sensor, it is located behind the main crank pulley
CKP sensors rarely fail, I have only come across 1, but if you have fuel and coil has power then you are down to computer/ICM failure or CKP sensor
Test for CKP sensor here: http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802c54e2


One other thing is the PATS(passive anti-theft system), it will cause a no start for sure, that is its purpose, but it should cause flashing "theft" light if there was a problem, but if there is a fault...............???
Do you have a second PATS key to try?
Thanks for the excellent advise. I will test the 12vdc source to the coil pack, and all the fuses in the box under the hood. I did test the fuse for the fuel pump and it was fine.

For the PATS key, I don't have one. When I bought the truck (used) around 6-7 years ago, it came with ignition/door key only, along with keyless entry fob. I've seen that light flash before, but it was when the car was not running with no key in the ignition. I always thought that was normal.

Something else I just thought of, my truck has had a VERY annoying intermittent problem where when I warm it up and shut the driver side door, the doors will lock(I've been locked out of it once). I now don't shut the door all the way when the keys are in there, or I leave the window down. When my truck died and I was cranking and cranking it, more than once, the doors locked themselves again.

Is this an indication of anything?
 

RonD

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If the truck ever started you have a PATS key.
It has an RFID tag embedded in the key "handle"/plastic.
This tag doesn't need batteries
There is a circular antenna around the ignition key cylinder
When you insert key into the lock and turn it on this antenna sends out a Radio signal(RF), this gives the tag enough power to send it's unique ID number.
Antenna picks up the number and sends it to PATS module(above glove box).
If PATS module has that number in it's memory, it signals computer that it is OK to activate fuel and/or spark, computer must get the OK or engine won't start.
On some models the PATS module is also connected to starter relay, if number doesn't match starter motor won't work.
A Locksmith can add another PATS Key to your system, or Dealer, if you have two working PATS keys then you can add a 3rd yourself.

Your doors should not lock if engine is running and trans is in Park or neutral.
I believe there is an option to have the doors lock automatically when you put truck in gear, and this is a user option that can be turned on and off.
Google: Ford Deactivating/activating power door lock disable feature

This is not part of the PATS system(PATS is engine only) it is part of the entry system and key fobs.
Is it a Ford keyless entry system or 3rd party?
they will have different options.
 

Jeff02Edge

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I misunderstood the question about the PATS key, sorry.

In the past, the doors HAVE locked themselves while the motor was running, and the truck was in park. I cannot replicate it, but when I shut the door, the doors locked. This has happened more than once.

I just tested one of the plugs and it has spark. Does this mean I don't need to check for 12vdc being supplied to the coil pack?

It is a stock Ford keyless entry system. When the truck is not running with ignition off, the "Theft" light in the indicator panel flashes every few seconds.

Twice in the past (5 years in-between) the truck lost almost all power and was mis-firing, sputtering, but once I shut off the key, put in park, and started it up, it ran fine afterwards in both instances.

I am just mentioning anything I can think of that may be of importance, sorry if it's too much.
 

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