Stacking clutches in ford 10.5"?

cp2295 · Mar 7, 2017

So I got a 03 10.5" and a matching d60 hp to throw under the ranger eventually. However I don't have a lot to spare between tires suspension steering and gears, so I was wondering what everyone's take is on throwing an extra 1 or 2 clutches into the trac lok unit in the 10.5". Is that feasible will it make it lock up harder and still be able to slip when turning? Or even shimming the pack a little thicker? I don't want to weld because it would murder my tires which aren't gonna be cheap... Plan on running 42s. Also for the front does anyone know of a junkyard posi unit I can grab out of a d60 rear and throw it in the front? The 60 I got is not the "super 60" it's the 03 leaf sprung with 35 spline inners and 30 spline outers.

Btw this is defenitely not long term, eventually I want to get an Arb for the front and a Detroit mechanical locker out back. Just trying to see if I can save a few bucks for the meantime or should I just deal with the posi that I got and the open diff up front for now.. Thanks guys

swynx · Mar 9, 2017

cp2295 said:
So I got a 03 10.5" and a matching d60 hp to throw under the ranger eventually. However I don't have a lot to spare between tires suspension steering and gears, so I was wondering what everyone's take is on throwing an extra 1 or 2 clutches into the trac lok unit in the 10.5". Is that feasible will it make it lock up harder and still be able to slip when turning? Or even shimming the pack a little thicker? I don't want to weld because it would murder my tires which aren't gonna be cheap... Plan on running 42s. Also for the front does anyone know of a junkyard posi unit I can grab out of a d60 rear and throw it in the front? The 60 I got is not the "super 60" it's the 03 leaf sprung with 35 spline inners and 30 spline outers.

Btw this is defenitely not long term, eventually I want to get an Arb for the front and a Detroit mechanical locker out back. Just trying to see if I can save a few bucks for the meantime or should I just deal with the posi that I got and the open diff up front for now.. Thanks guys

in my 8.8 i superpacked the limited slip, i would hands down do it again. i did not put any limited slip modifier in it to see how it would drive. i never even notice it, not even in parking lots, i dont get any chatter or squelling, not even on hot days.

however if it rains and your not careful youll do a drift. ive noticed that in any situation other than dry roads it acts like a spool. it pushes to the outside on long corners, in the gravel you can feel it trying to spin on tight corners. itll light up both tires if you want it to (no 1 wheel peel). it leaves marks on any surface thats not pavement.

so that being said, no it hasnt torn up my tires, yes it drives like a locked rear end, no it doesnt make noise, but yes i know its there. drive cautisouly as you should with big tires and youll be happy. im not sure what the bias ratio is but from reading i suspect 3.5:1 - 4:1. if i flex it out and get a rear tire off the ground it will still keep trying to turn the not lifted tire that has all the traction.

if you punch it in the rain or even hardly get on it taking a 90 from a stop in the rain, your gonna need to counter steer. i really do think that its the best of both worlds other than this problem.

my plan like you is to super pack a 10.5 and weld the 60 , then run 1 hub unlocked in the winter, untill i buy selectables.

as far as the limited slip front, im pretty positive itll work, i know that we have put a rear 60 limited slip in a front and it worked, but it wasnt ford axles. if the part numbers are the same (im sure they are) then it should work, and i would super pack that one too.

on a plus side they should break free before breaking any parts. not that you will have the problem with one tons

cp2295 · Mar 9, 2017

swynx said:
in my 8.8 i superpacked the limited slip, i would hands down do it again. i did not put any limited slip modifier in it to see how it would drive. i never even notice it, not even in parking lots, i dont get any chatter or squelling, not even on hot days.

however if it rains and your not careful youll do a drift. ive noticed that in any situation other than dry roads it acts like a spool. it pushes to the outside on long corners, in the gravel you can feel it trying to spin on tight corners. itll light up both tires if you want it to (no 1 wheel peel). it leaves marks on any surface thats not pavement.

so that being said, no it hasnt torn up my tires, yes it drives like a locked rear end, no it doesnt make noise, but yes i know its there. drive cautisouly as you should with big tires and youll be happy. im not sure what the bias ratio is but from reading i suspect 3.5:1 - 4:1. if i flex it out and get a rear tire off the ground it will still keep trying to turn the not lifted tire that has all the traction.

if you punch it in the rain or even hardly get on it taking a 90 from a stop in the rain, your gonna need to counter steer. i really do think that its the best of both worlds other than this problem.

my plan like you is to super pack a 10.5 and weld the 60 , then run 1 hub unlocked in the winter, untill i buy selectables.

as far as the limited slip front, im pretty positive itll work, i know that we have put a rear 60 limited slip in a front and it worked, but it wasnt ford axles. if the part numbers are the same (im sure they are) then it should work, and i would super pack that one too.

on a plus side they should break free before breaking any parts. not that you will have the problem with one tons

Awesome exactly what I wanted to hear man, just curious how many more shims and/or clutches did you add to the pack?

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swynx · Mar 10, 2017

cp2295 said:
Awesome exactly what I wanted to hear man, just curious how many more shims and/or clutches did you add to the pack?

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the order they are in originally they have 2 steel disks next to each other so it will slip, i changed it up so it would lock up harder, and it eliminated a steel disk.

originally its = c/pp/c/pp/c
super packed = c/p/c/p/c/p/c

7 disks per side total, so i added 1 clutch per side.

threads i read say to pull a clutch from the old stack and add it to the new one. oddly enough i had enough clutches from the new stack that i bought...

from my measurements it took up about an 1/8" of space, but its hard to tell. i think that the clutches must be thicker than the plates because of the material. i still have my old ones, ill have to measure them. cuz now im curious.

i had to use needle nose vice grips and a hammer to put the spring back in, and a hammer and screw driver to get the spider gears and pin back in... they ussually all just slide in.

read about half way down. and compare the pictures.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150472&page=2

85_Ranger4x4 · Mar 10, 2017

swynx said:
7 disks per side total, so i added 1 clutch per side.

threads i read say to pull a clutch from the old stack and add it to the new one. oddly enough i had enough clutches from the new stack that i bought...

I did the same thing, my kit required reusing no old disks too. I soaked the clutches in the special goo like you are supposed to and added it to the oil though.

It works great. :icon_thumby:

No mercy if it is slick out though. In 2wd it is very happy to kick the rear out.

swynx · Mar 11, 2017

85_Ranger4x4 said:
I did the same thing, my kit required reusing no old disks too. I soaked the clutches in the special goo like you are supposed to and added it to the oil though.

It works great.

No mercy if it is slick out though. In 2wd it is very happy to kick the rear out.

i only soaked mine in gear oil for an hour before the install. good to know that adding lsd additive makes no change. i had thought about adding the bottle i bought but wasnt sure if i would get any more driveability out of it.

cp2295 · Mar 11, 2017

The 10.5 has the clutches stacked like that from the factory, haven't pulled this one apart but the other one I rebuilt was like that..

Spring washer/p/c/p/c/p and the it connects to the spider and then does that on the other side... I think there might be some more clutches/steels can't remember.. Then it bolts together. I'll have to open it up and see what I can do with it

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swynx · Mar 11, 2017

cp2295 said:
The 10.5 has the clutches stacked like that from the factory, haven't pulled this one apart but the other one I rebuilt was like that..

Spring washer/p/c/p/c/p and the it connects to the spider and then does that on the other side... I think there might be some more clutches/steels can't remember.. Then it bolts together. I'll have to open it up and see what I can do with it

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weird

you might check the nissan forums. lockers and gears for those trucks are stupid expensive so those guys are huge into super packing there limited slips, im pretty sure they HAVE to add a clutch/steel.

if there are more plates than clutches i would change that, like say if it starts with a plate instead of a clutch, then i would start with a clutch instead. if all else fails just run the new clutch pack without limited slip modifier. i have read some cases where people have not soaked there clutches at all and put them in, and they said it sounded like they left a wrench in the diff untill they put some modifier in and it soaked thoroughly.

iether way you should be able to atleast add a washer or something to make it tighter

85_Ranger4x4 · Mar 11, 2017

swynx said:
i only soaked mine in gear oil for an hour before the install. good to know that adding lsd additive makes no change. i had thought about adding the bottle i bought but wasnt sure if i would get any more driveability out of it.

I had heard if you didn't have the stuff it can rip the clutch lining off the plates.

swynx · Mar 12, 2017

85_Ranger4x4 said:
I had heard if you didn't have the stuff it can rip the clutch lining off the plates.

i wouldnt doubt it, thats probably where that "left a wrench in the diff" part comes from.

on a side note, every store i went to i looked for fluids without the additive, on the front they all said normal, but on the back it said it was fine for limited slips, but then the bottle next to it said limited slip additive right on it...so i could be running the additive or not, idk, kind of confusing.

85_Ranger4x4 · Mar 12, 2017

swynx said:
i wouldnt doubt it, thats probably where that "left a wrench in the diff" part comes from.

on a side note, every store i went to i looked for fluids without the additive, on the front they all said normal, but on the back it said it was fine for limited slips, but then the bottle next to it said limited slip additive right on it...so i could be running the additive or not, idk, kind of confusing.

A lot of gear oil has the additive in it anymore.

swynx · Mar 13, 2017

85_Ranger4x4 said:
A lot of gear oil has the additive in it anymore.

seeing as how it wont hurt a open diff, i dont see why not. makes it easier for the generic application.

i did however see that the amsoil and lucas brands did not have the additive. but at 3x the price i wasnt going that route.

Stacking clutches in ford 10.5"?

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