Duraspark Conversion help

CavScout0 · Jun 15, 2014

I finally started my duraspark swap and had some questions. I have sorted through the wiring harness and have seperated the oil, engine temp and alternator wires. These wires lead to a gray connector with 6 wires or so. Is it safe to cut the other wires that are leading into this connector? Im sorry if this is a stupid question Im just timid about hacking away something then discovering I needed it. Thanks for any advice.

RonD · Jun 15, 2014

You have a couple of vehicles listed, which one is getting the conversion?
Year and engine?

This link has diagrams for wiring: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.shtml

With only a few exceptions most wires on vehicles are needed

CavScout0 · Jun 15, 2014

Sorry. Its for an 85 Bronco II with the 2.8

kimcrwbr1 · Jun 15, 2014

Be sure and cut any wires long for future use. Yours being the 1985 wiring is a little more difficult but not much. Are you gonna use the stock coil or use a ballast resistor type coil?

CavScout0 · Jun 15, 2014

Im using a coil for a 78 pinto.

RonD · Jun 15, 2014

Last diagram in above link shows the wiring and wire color pretty clear

CavScout0 · Jun 15, 2014

Thanks ron for the link. I guess those wires are good to cut, I will leave them long like kim said. Kimcrwbr1 I looked at my new coil and its an Accel 12 volt coil. So Im assuming that this coil will be good without the resistor, correct? Thanks again guys for the imput. I really wanna do this right and hopefully get this beast up and running.

RonD · Jun 16, 2014

CavScout0 said:
Thanks ron for the link. I guess those wires are good to cut, I will leave them long like kim said. Kimcrwbr1 I looked at my new coil and its an Accel 12 volt coil. So Im assuming that this coil will be good without the resistor, correct? Thanks again guys for the imput. I really wanna do this right and hopefully get this beast up and running.

You can run any coil without the resistor, issue is should you.

A coil is just what it sounds like, a coil of wire, so it doesn't have a "voltage" rating, the reason for the ballast resistor is to make the coil last longer when voltage is 13.6-14.6v, i.e. alternators output while engine is running, and when it's hot in the engine bay while engine is running.

When starting a cold engine a hot spark is what you need, when cranking the starter motor coil gets about 10volts, starter draws alot of amps/voltage, so if you test voltage at the battery when cranking you will see about 10volts, if it gets down to 9volts battery is going bad

.
Once engine starts a hot spark is just a waste of energy and heats up the coil more, so shortens it's life.
Ballast resistor reduces the 14v down to about 8-9v, so only slightly less than cranking voltage.

No coil "needs" the ballast resistor, so really up to you, it is your money that is heating up under the hood, lol.

kimcrwbr1 · Jun 17, 2014

If the coil is internally resister as in all TFI coils are internally resisted and do not require a ballast resistor. All that BS about the engine dont need a hot spark when running evidentally that person has never been bit by the TFI coil when running. It will jump a gap of around 7/8 inch with a spark gap tester. If you have trouble with the Accel coil heating up just put the stock coil back in and forget about it. The ranger ignition switch is not equipped to wire in the start circuit for the coil you will need to add a diode and run a separate wire from the start solenoid to the coil so your not back feeding power to the starter when the engine is running. When wiring the module you have key on run to red on the module, key on start to the white wire on the module (retards timing for quick start), key on hot to coil pos, and green from the module to coil neg. In my opinion the parts list for the duraspark conversion needs to be changed 99 % of the people who use that coil allways have issues until they put in a 12 volt coil (it must be internally resisted). Then the ballast resister is not necessary.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCEL-140012-Super-Coil-Ford-TFI-48-000-Volt-/360955471827?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540a9f67d3&vxp=mtr
I have been thinking of putting this coil in but the stock coil still fires right up after three years now.

CavScout0 · Jun 17, 2014

Wow Id rather just use the stock coil then! Could save me 30 bucks or so plus the trouble of the ballist resistor and new mounting location/bracket. My only question is on the stock coil connector and related wiring is the green the coil - and the red the coil +? I ask this because the coil wiring harness has a factory splice and connector off of the RED wire making me think this is for a dash tach. Forgive me if I sound stupid. And thanks for all the help so far. If your ever in Michigan beers are on ME.

kimcrwbr1 · Jun 17, 2014

That is correct key on hot to coil pos and the red wire for the module. coil neg to module green I believe that would be for the tach also neg on coil. I am not sure the white wire for the module is even necessary maybe try it without. Otherwise just run a separate wire from the starter wire to the white on the module that will retard the timing when starting. Then the three wire from the dizzy are self explaining just make sure the black wire is a good ground to the module. It wouldnt hurt to ground the housing on the module either off the engine or the firewall. GL

CavScout0 · Jun 23, 2014

Ok I have pulled out all of the junk and removed the wiring harness from the vehicle. I am left scrathing my head on a couple things. In the duraspark how to write up it said to leave the wiring for the choke heater. Well Im looking at it and the choke heater wire runs from the choke heater to the eec iv test connector then in to some sort of relay. Was I supposed to leave that relay and All the associated wiring in? And I also pulled the wiring for the neutral safety switch. Im guessing that has to go back in...? And if so I do I wire it up? Any help would be most appreciated. And man does it look nice with all that junk out of the way. Thanks guys

kimcrwbr1 · Jun 23, 2014

You do not need to mess with any of the chassis wiring and the choke relay goes away with the computer harness. It is getting real tired answering questions about the instructions for the conversion in the tech library. Your best bet is to just start reading threads on others that have done the conversion just put duraspark in the search bar and do the research it all is there.

CavScout0 · Jun 23, 2014

My appoligies for being a nusance. Trust me Kim I have read and reread the duraspark how to and any others that are out there. "Remove the entire wiring harness from the engine except for the Electric Choke, Engine Temp and Oil Pressure sending units wiring" this is from this sites how to. The Electric choke is part of the ECM wiring harness as I described in the previous post. Your telling me to remove it. That is where I am confused. My question was does the choke get spliced somewhere else? And I may have been over zelous in removing the Wiring harness but the Neutral safety switch and the Converter lock up is all spliced into the ecm wiring harness. I havent touched the Chassis wiring harness to my knowledge. So when I read remove the wiring harness that is what I did. Again I am very sorry for being bothersome but your help if very appreciated.

Duraspark Conversion help

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