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92 Ranger regular cab door rattles while driving


slycer2002

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I wasn't exactly sure where to put this thread, because I didn't see a section specifically for questions about doors and/or body issues. Anyway, when I'm driving down the road and hit a bump, the passenger door rattles. I know it's the door, and not something else that's possibly knocking against it, because I can reach across the cab and put outward pressure on it, and it won't make a peep while I hit bumps in the road. As soon as I let go, it starts rattling again. My first thought was that either the latch or the door jam had somehow gotten loose, but they don't budge when I check them. My next thought was one or both of the hinges, but they appear solid as well. What I am wondering now is if it could possibly be the door seal. If it has lost its elasticity over the years, (the truck is 25 years old, after all) it may not be able to firmly "seal" the gap between the door and the cab anymore, resulting in the rattle. Does my logic hold water, or could there be something else I'm missing? I would appreciate any and all help. Thanks in advance! Cheers! :beer:
 


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Check the bushing on the pin that the door latch latches onto. They usually get worn down or just crack and fall off all together.

 

slycer2002

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I hadn't thought of that, but it makes sense! Thanks, I'll check it out ASAP!
 

slycer2002

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Well, here's what the passenger side latch striker looks like on my truck. There is no bushing. Thing is, in the 23 years I've owned the truck, I don't ever remember there being a bushing there. I seem to remember it being just bare metal the whole time. The driver's side is the same way. Granted, even if it has just been bare metal the whole time, even metal gets worn down after a while. Anyway, I'll probably go ahead and replace both of them regardless. They're relatively inexpensive, and they're pretty cheap to boot. Thanks again!

PS - Please ignore the dirt. She needs a bath!
 

Mark_88

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They were a problem on my 88 too...I seem to recall fixing mine by putting plastic pipe pieces on the metal striker part but can't remember how I did that...

You can also adjust them up or down a bit to take some of the play out of the door...they are bolted through a nut on the earlier models (I think) but that may have changed over the years.

Pretty sure mine were a Torx 50 or 45...or smaller socket...when I replaced the doors on my 88 cab with 92 doors they needed adjustments and that striker was one of the things that was slightly out of alignment.
 

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I ended up repairing mine with some PEX tubing. I had some heavy duty stuff in 1/2" that I sanded the outside down slightly to fit and slit it to fit over the metal. Works great so far, been on probably two or three years. Didn't cost me anything really since it was sitting around


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Mark_88

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I ended up repairing mine with some PEX tubing. I had some heavy duty stuff in 1/2" that I sanded the outside down slightly to fit and slit it to fit over the metal. Works great so far, been on probably two or three years. Didn't cost me anything really since it was sitting around


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That sounds about right...1/2" pipe slitting and fitting over...never had a problem with mine after that either.

I also recall wanting the plastic to be free rolling but I don't think that is as important since the part on the door simply collapses in around it to latch and lock the door closed.

The plastic pipe I used may have been a bit too thick...the OEM stuff was pretty thin but managed to last 15 or more years...
 

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I would also check the inside door handle connecting cable. the plastic tabs that secure it to the door may have broken and the slight pressure from pushing on the panel causes it to stop.

Alternately, if you find that your door handle has the older connecting rods and not cable. Make sure the fabric sheath is in good condition. I have both in my '92, Drivers side I converted to connecting rods after the cable broke and when I didn't have the fabric sheath in the right spot it would rattle against the door.

One last thing to check. The metal guide for the back to the window. The rivet holding this on could be lose causing the whole bracket to rattle and pressure put on the panel will transfer to the glass causing the rattling to stop.

Hope this provides another possible reason for the rattle.
 

Tennessee

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I've searched high and low at the pull a parts here by the house . I can't find the inner handle w/cable in any RBV I did bring home a rod or 2 is it pretty simple to do?
 

Nez'sRanger

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I've searched high and low at the pull a parts here by the house . I can't find the inner handle w/cable in any RBV I did bring home a rod or 2 is it pretty simple to do?
The rod conversion is pretty simple. You will just need to make sure you have the interior door handle as well as the actual latching mechanism. I think the linkage that connects to the lock cylinder and exterior door latch is the same, but for a few extra bucks at the pick your part, might as well get it too.
Personally, I find the rod system far superior to the 92's cable.
 

Tennessee

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Ended up buying a new handle for nearly 30 bucks but I got tired of fooling with it
 

DannyG

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For the inside door latch it needs to be from a 1991-1989 model, the back should look like below.

25613


You will also need the corresponding latch for the rods. Below is a crude drawing of how it should hook up. You will need to rotate the interior handle 90 degrees or vertical to feed the rod end into it. The locking tabs should slide off and on the rods with a flick of your finger.

25614


Again, this is all from memory, but I have done several handles and locks over the years and on different models of Fords and they are all mostly the same.

I hope this helps, Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 

Nez'sRanger

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Exactly! I almost had the conversion done, and then I discovered that the latch mechanism i bought was broken! Go figure! Waiting for a proper year ranger to show up at my pick your part...
 

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