Tps wtf!

Denisefwd93 · May 6, 2018

Because it's an old truck I'm replacing stuff I'm replacing the TPS so I got this new one from Advance Auto, the part listed on the box is the proper part # put it on, start the engine and RPMs are screaming! Put the old one back on, rpms back to "normal"!

The box has the correct part # the bwd part number is not in the plastic but there is a sticker saying 232 107

There doesn't appear to be a wrong way to install one of these but this new part has to rotate slightly counterclockwise for the screws to line up and the inside that rests against the throttle body shaft is not quite the same as the original, so something's not right?

Doofy · May 6, 2018

Take your old part with you to compare before buying. You may have to try several different stores. In my experience you need to find a good parts house and build a good rapport with them and then they are more apt to be helpful. Sadly, this may not be the case this day and age. Been going to my same NAPA for 40 years (before it was NAPA) and they bend over backwards to help.

Denisefwd93 · May 6, 2018

Doofy said:
Take your old part with you to compare before buying. You may have to try several different stores. In my experience you need to find a good parts house and build a good rapport with them and then they are more apt to be helpful. Sadly, this may not be the case this day and age. Been going to my same NAPA for 40 years (before it was NAPA) and they bend over backwards to help.

The local Napa store I've been using for years and years but they're a little bit farther away than advance I just have a feeling that's the wrong part even though it looks correct.

RonD · May 6, 2018

If you have to rotate it for holes to line up then you are OPENING the throttle plate when you do that, hence the high RPM

Right part will match up to throttle plate rod and holes, so as Doofy said take the old one in and match it.

TPS has no control over RPM, this is not a 'drive by wire' setup, it just tells computer where drivers foot is on gas pedal, gives computer a "heads up" to stop fuel or add fuel faster than MAF sensor air flow can

When correct TPS is installed, key on, center wire should read under 1 volt, .69-.99 is spec, when throttle is closed
And at WOT center wire should read 4.5-4.9volts

There is an adjustment on the throttle linkage, looks like idle screw, but is an anti-diesel screw, but it does open and close throttle plate like an idle screw did, if center wire voltage is say 1.1v with throttle closed, you can adjust this screw to close the throttle plate a bit more, dropping TPS voltage below 1volt

Under 1volt(foot off the gas pedal) tells computer to shut down injectors while coasting if RPMs are above 1,500, this saves on fuel, injectors restart when RPMs are lower.
4.5v or higher tells computer to ignore O2 sensors and "send lots of gas" to the engine, lol, driver wants POWER not MPG at this time, it can also shut off AC compressor for added power

Denisefwd93 · May 7, 2018

You know I post this stuff just to see your input Ron, I love reading it!

Took it back, counter person says; "we don't refund electrical parts" so we'll see what they have tomorrow after they ordered it in and then match it up to the old one but I'm done with advance going back to NAPA. Just wish it was Napa Valley California not NAPA Auto Parts lol

RonD said:
If you have to rotate it for holes to line up then you are OPENING the throttle plate when you do that, hence the high RPM

Right part will match up to throttle plate rod and holes, so as Doofy said take the old one in and match it.

TPS has no control over RPM, this is not a 'drive by wire' setup, it just tells computer where drivers foot is on gas pedal, gives computer a "heads up" to stop fuel or add fuel faster than MAF sensor air flow can

When correct TPS is installed, key on, center wire should read under 1 volt, .69-.99 is spec, when throttle is closed
And at WOT center wire should read 4.5-4.9volts

There is an adjustment on the throttle linkage, looks like idle screw, but is an anti-diesel screw, but it does open and close throttle plate like an idle screw did, if center wire voltage is say 1.1v with throttle closed, you can adjust this screw to close the throttle plate a bit more, dropping TPS voltage below 1volt

Under 1volt(foot off the gas pedal) tells computer to shut down injectors while coasting if RPMs are above 1,500, this saves on fuel, injectors restart when RPMs are lower.
4.5v or higher tells computer to ignore O2 sensors and "send lots of gas" to the engine, lol, driver wants POWER not MPG at this time, it can also shut off AC compressor for added power

Denisefwd93 · May 8, 2018

Picked up the new replacement of the replacement That was supposed to be new to replace the one that was old LOL.
The box look like it's been on the shelf or in somebody's pocket we compared the new one to the one I took back and they were definitely different from each other.
Put it on the truck started up, success!
The idle no longer jumps to 3000 or more I think it only jumps to about 1,200 (I didn't really pay attention to that) but then it settled right down so, in a few minutes it goes right into about five or six hundred RPM just like my other truck!

that's the end of this little story!

RonD · May 8, 2018

Good work

Denisefwd93 · May 8, 2018

RonD said:
Good work

Thank you Ron! and yes I fired Advance Auto Parts I'm so tired of them giving me wrong parts. It's also looking like I need an alternator per, my other post lol

rangerenthiusiast · May 8, 2018

Yeah, Ron’s the Man!! So much good info from that guy!

And I empathize about Advance. They don’t want to take anything electrical back. On the one hand, I get it (lots of dishonest people out there), but if the part is bad or wrong, then it’s bad or wrong. I have an IAC that I just bought from them that looks like it’s a dud. I already know they’re going to fight me on taking it back. I’ll probably skip the dudes at the store and just go straight to Corporate if it tests bad... (and yes, Ron was the one that gave me the info on how to test it!).

Glad you got your truck running right again.

Denisefwd93 · May 9, 2018

rangerenthiusiast said:
Yeah, Ron’s the Man!! So much good info from that guy!

And I empathize about Advance. They don’t want to take anything electrical back. On the one hand, I get it (lots of dishonest people out there), but if the part is bad or wrong, then it’s bad or wrong. I have an IAC that I just bought from them that looks like it’s a dud. I already know they’re going to fight me on taking it back. I’ll probably skip the dudes at the store and just go straight to Corporate if it tests bad... (and yes, Ron was the one that gave me the info on how to test it!).

Glad you got your truck running right again.

Oh, thanks, but it's still in the back yard. Not selling the 93 just yet so it's kind of cool having one to run for parts.

added to the "list" is the alternator and evap purge valve LOL

getting there! Hopfully tomorrow the fan clutch nut will be loosed when I take it over to a shop I used to trust LOL

Doofy · May 9, 2018

Denisefwd93 said:
Oh, thanks, but it's still in the back yard. Not selling the 93 just yet so it's kind of cool having one to run for parts.

added to the "list" is the alternator and evap purge valve LOL

getting there! Hopfully tomorrow the fan clutch nut will be loosed when I take it over to a shop I used to trust LOL

I thought most of the auto parts stores have the fan clutch tool as a loaner? My NAPA has a loaner and also sells them. I just made one for my 7.3. The best tool is a heavy rubber mallet to "shock" that nut loose. Also, need to make sure of the proper rotation as some have left-handed threads. Great news on the tips. :icon_thumby:

Denisefwd93 · May 9, 2018

All the rented tools are made soft non hardened steel and they're all stretched out of shape.

my next door neighbor has the proper tools from k d he tried & couldn't break it loose, a friend of mine couldn't break it loose either! I called 2 shops, they don't have the pneumatic tools, but the one I'm taking it to, thinks he can take care of it for me, I used his garage for all my vehicles for business and 2 Fieros over the past 20-some years but his top mechanic also told me I didn't need ball joints 2 years ago when they were actually bad.

Tps wtf!

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