Need some major advise on 2001 ranger problems

TimeKeeper · Aug 16, 2014

Hey everyone,

looking at starting some engine repairs to my 2001 Ranger today. About two weeks ago, driving on the highway, out of nowhere I get a clicking/ticking noise coming from the drivers side of the engine, power loss, and extremely poor idle once stopped at a red light. By the time I got it home, pulled into the driveway, idled erratically and shut off.

The next day, checked spark plugs (good), cables (good), coil pack (old but good), air filter (good), IAC valve (good), throttle body (dirty, but wasn't issue), checked for vacuum leak (none found), and fuel pressure was good. Being dumb I disconnected battery and got rid of the hard codes it was showing with a flashing check engine light the night before.

Took it to Ford dealership, they checked it out, did a relative compression test and found cylinder #6 was showing a 38% difference compared to the other 5 cylinders. They believe most likely a burnt exhaust valve and are suggesting an engine replacement due to mileage on engine (220,000).

I've always taken good care of the truck, kept oil/filter changed, never has run hot, and just want to check all avenues before giving up and getting rid of it or getting a new engine.

Am looking at checking/changing the lifters, maybe checking for a broken valve spring, also looking at maybe replacing the top heads/gaskets, and hoping the bottom is strong enough to take it. Really just trying to get this truck to last another 2 years while I finish up school and I would be a happy man.

Thought I would check with the fine experts here to see other opinions, and thoughts on what I am considering.

Posted videos of the truck driving, and in park to get some idea of what it's doing.

Appreciate all advise.

http://youtu.be/pSbl_R2FUoY

http://youtu.be/DQcdBhdwUoU

Rearanger · Aug 16, 2014

Do you have any mechanical skills, tools, time and space to do any work yourself?

TimeKeeper · Aug 16, 2014

Rearanger said:
Do you have any mechanical skills, tools, time and space to do any work yourself?

Definitely a novice with mechanical skills, been learning. I do have tools, time, and space to work right now though.

drsvox · Aug 16, 2014

in addition to what rearanger has asked: how much time and money do you have/want to spend?

you will likely find that one minor thing leads to another, more expensive major thing...

however: I rebuilt my 2.8 with help of a machine shop, manual, youtube, and people from this site...so I totally think it's doable for you.

TimeKeeper · Aug 16, 2014

drsvox said:
in addition to what rearanger has asked: how much time and money do you have/want to spend?

you will likely find that one minor thing leads to another, more expensive major thing...

however: I rebuilt my 2.8 with help of a machine shop, manual, youtube, and people from this site...so I totally think it's doable for you.

Definitely have the available time right now to slowly work through repairs if I was to do it myself, budget is somewhat a factor which is what has led me to look into doing some repairs myself in order to save on the $80 per hour labor costs around here. Understand though, will still have to dish out some money for parts, but if it works, and keeps me on the road, I'll be a happy guy.

drsvox · Aug 16, 2014

there are definitely a lot of helpful folks, and there's a lot of useful tech articles to help you through things.

I'm a weekend hobbyist, and don't have a great deal of experience, but my first thoughts would be that if you're going to do this, then do it right

telling you to buy a new engine because of the mileage and a burnt valve sounds extreme to me, but you could actually end up spending that much in parts alone, by the time you're done...for example: I'd be prepared to pull the heads only to find out they may be cracked and need replacing...

were it me (and I suppose it was last November), I'd make a decision to either 1) isolate exactly what the problem(s) is/are and work to fix them, or 2) turn it into an engine rebuild.

I chose 2, and I'm more than glad I did, but it cost me in the neighborhood of $1,200.

Rearanger · Aug 16, 2014

TimeKeeper said:
I do have tools, time, and space to work right now though.

Do you have the compression test numbers for all the cylinders?

Will · Aug 16, 2014

Take off the rocker cover and see if the valvetrain is intact by moving the engine until they are at Top Dead Center on the problem cylinder. If it is intact, the next step is to get a compression tester that has a coupler for an air hose. You need to blast air through the plug hole and see where it is going. If it's going out the exhaust pipe, maybe a burned valve. If it's coming through the oil filler cap, maybe a broken piston ring. I don't think it's a burned valve because the failure was too dramatic. Normally, especially on a 6 cylinder or more, the failure is gradual and barely noticeable at first. It could be a weird pulse on the highway at steady speed, for instance. Hopefully the valvetrail is sticking and it's a cheap fix. That's kinda what I am hoping for. I've had the lifters gummed up before and make a lot of racket. It's possible for one to not let the valve close.

bucko · Aug 19, 2014

If it comes down to a rebuild, total (or partial), have you considered a lower mileage used one from a salvage yard? The 3.0 has been around a long time now, so they are plentiful, and with low mileage ones being available. many of the salvage yards offer a warranty on them.

I have 215K on my current 2000 3.0; I plan to install a used engine into it if it ever decides to quit on me.

TimeKeeper · Aug 20, 2014

Rearanger said:
Do you have the compression test numbers for all the cylinders?

I have a printed out chart for the relative compression test done at the dealership.

Cylinder 1 : 0%
Cylinder 4 : 1%
Cylinder 2 : 0%
Cylinder 5 : 0%
Cylinder 3 : 0%
Cylinder 6 : 38%

From what I understand, that doesn't mean cylinder 6 compression is noexistant, just much worse than the others. Am I way off track?

TimeKeeper · Aug 20, 2014

Haven't gotten very far yet, but did get the intake manifold off, and the driverside rocker cover off, the rocker closest to the cab has a ton of play in it.

Just double checked, and the spring on that rod is broken. Could that possibly be my only issue?

Well, I don't want to speculate. I'll just tell you what to do next.

You need to get air on that cylinder through the plug hole to hold the valves up. As I said before, many compression testers have an air coupler on them for this purpose. To work on a valve with the head still on the engine you need to be able to use air to hold the valve closed. Once you get the air on there, you need to turn the engine to close the valves and pull the stem up on the broken-spring valve. Hopefully it didn't fall in there.

Not being there sux for trying to figure it out. A valve spring breaking on a low-power engine like this is fantastically improbable. Can you take pictures and post them before you touch it? If it is just a broken spring, and the valve still seals, then it is an easy fix if you can get air to hold it up and can find a spring compressor to install a new spring with. But I want to see what you are seeing so get us a picture.

Rearanger · Aug 20, 2014

TimeKeeper said:
Am I way off track?

Not familiar with that system - may have been a leak down test, not compression. Usually they give the compression numbers but in all things dealership they may not want to be transparent.

Anyway, looks like you're on your way with the valve cover off. See what that brings.

Will · Aug 20, 2014

Okay, that was weird--I managed to edit your post with my reply. Just read it and lets go from there.

TimeKeeper · Aug 20, 2014

Will said:
Okay, that was weird--I managed to edit your post with my reply. Just read it and lets go from there.

Yeah I was pretty confused for a minute. I'll get a picture of it uploaded first thing in the morning, didn't take a picture of it before I left my truck. Also will see about renting or purchasing a compression test kit of my own tomorrow morning and seeing if I can figure that thing out before I go taking that head off...how do I go about turning the engine to close the valves? Sorry still learning.

drsvox · Aug 20, 2014

driver's side, closest to the cab is your #6...I wouldn't be surprised if the broken spring is the only problem, but like Will said: hopefully the valve didn't drop in and was held up by the broken spring.

if the valve does drop in, you might still be able to pull it back up using a small telescopic magnet. I had a valve drop once (was using air to keep it closed) and managed to pull it back with the magnet.

just a couple thoughts...

Need some major advise on 2001 ranger problems

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