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m5odr1 occillating gear whine/rumble except in 4th


rickcdewitt

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hi guys been quite a while since i've posted.

i put a later model stock exhaust on my truck to replace the horribly loud flowmaster hand me down i had and now after some heavy hauling and freeway miles i really hear the condition of the tranny coming through.

i just spent time reading all i could and printed out allens tech,the blow up schematic, and some other pertinant posts.

as the title says it has some (i guess) bearing issues. anyway my reason for posting is to get some advise on judging bearing condition/free play in these trannies. and any other tips,issues, or general guesses about whats up in there before i attempt rebuild.

it shifts o.k. still but i'm hard on my stuff and don't trust it anymore.

thanks,rick.
EDIT: theres also a metal on metal chirping with too much load.
 
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rickcdewitt

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so i was just given another m5od from a friend out of a 2000 that it wouldn't shift(at all) if the engine was running.

he got it from a customer who had him replace the tranny even though he thought it was just the chewed up pilot bushing/input shaft bearing surface.

i've got the shift plate and tailhousing off it and see no obvious damage to the syncro teeth(dogs?).the input bearing seems pretty tight as well.

is there any way to check the syncros without pulling the guts?

everything seems pretty good so i'm tempted to just grab a decent input shaft from a yard to give the next pilot bushing a better chance.

anyway what would you guys do? i like the idea of fixing the one thats out and swaping it into the truck rather than the down time.
 
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AllanD

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your friend most likely removed the "stub lever" from the '01 trans to remove it from the chassis.... and reinstalled incorrectly (already in gear instead of) neutral
 

rickcdewitt

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been a while allen,you still driving the long range(r) with 4.10's?

and don't i wish the idiot had bolted the shifter on wrong!anyway sorry if i was vague.the reason the truck was brought in was inablity to shift while running but could shift while off.

the guy had my friend replace it and now i have it. the end of the input shaft is slightly chewed and i'm tempted to replace just that if i can check the syncros action somehow?

i could take it apart and inspect every part but it would be nice to get some advise prior to the deed since transmissions are new territory for me.
 

rickcdewitt

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so i took apart the newer tranny and the gears and their roller bearings are good.i'm thinking of getting syncros with the rebuild kit since i don't trust myself to judge their condition. once i have the kit it should go fast from there.
 

rickcdewitt

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i got a good input shaft from a local tranny shop and will have a rebuild kit from them soon.
 

AllanD

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Synchros are fairly easy to inspect...

On the all brass rings you run your thumb across the internal serrations if it feels like a sharp file it's fine.... if the serrations feel "smooth" the ring is junk.

The reverse ring is the exception it's "pre smoothed" and serves as a good example of what a really whipped 1st through 5th ring feels like.

On a 2000 gearbox you probably have the "plastic lined rings" on atleast 3rd gear, possibly on second those are a bit harder to judge

Be very careful on the plastic rings used on 3rd and 2nd as they are "keyed" with "webbed teeth" on the outside diameter, so they MUST be installed in a specific orientation and ON the correct gear

IF you remove and replace them I wouldn't mind having the ones you remove
(if black plastic inside) as samples.

AD
 

rickcdewitt

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thanks for the heads up on the syncro composition and condition.

whats the bit about clocking(orientation for the sets of three pins?).i'm not sure if the step by step picture reassembly thread i printed out mentions anything about the rings other than the courser reverse teeth on the 199(3?) and up m5's. at least it was stacked so it will all go back in the correct order.:icon_confused:

so i did get a kit coming from my trans shop supplier with the syncros.he sold it near cost and was less than the kits on the web with no syncros.

i will be checking the old syncros though for the hell of it and if they're plastic lined have at them if that helps a project or your own little tranny reference museum.

i'm thinking of running the tranny on cheap oil first and then royal p. or amsoil if i manage to get a quiet, easy shifting setup
 

rickcdewitt

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it went together smoothly,i'm just waiting on input shaft bearing shims and a clutch master to wrap this up
 

rickcdewitt

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so it was a success!shifts good and nice and quiet.i also noticed while shopping for a master that the 2.9l clutch master is 7/8" and the 4.0l master is 3/4". i used a 7/8" unit again as i didn't mind the extra pedal feel with the 4.0l clutch after the engine swap.
 

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