Up date on 87 Ranger standerd cab long bed

Never could get the 2300 to run right ,so it out,7.5 rear is out, 5 speed mannal is out. 8.8 92 Explorer 4x4 rear end and springs is in ,87 Crown Vick 5.0 + a o d trans is in side note : drive shaft from 87 crown is 1" shorter than the stock ranger shaft so with a little fudgeing it fit perfect. Not close to finshed yet. Electric at 90% . advanced adapter motor mounts, trans mount stock but moved back 1". Used headman shorty swap headers ,top frame flang trimed 1" on pass side to clear headers , 2" body lift and firewall/ floor pinch weld hammerd flat, firewall clearanced with BF hammer on drivers side. Ac removed, alterd heater blower box in. Trans filler tube reshaped ,B&M cable shifter for a o d with B&M shift leaver installed in trans. Elelbrock intake on. Will be useing 4.0 explorer radiator and a eletric cooling fan.All mods to frame and body was done before motor was installed ,and motor an trans fit first time . it is alot easyer with the bed, doors ,and interer removed.

Post up some pics!

Hear you go http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0015/47/79/15997497_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/78/38/16038783_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/78/58/16038785_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/images/0016/78/99/16038799_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/images/0016/88/70/16038807_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/88/55/16038855_large.jpg?v=1

more http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/69/69/16039696_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/79/73/16039737_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/79/04/16039740_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/79/27/16039772_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos2.cardomain.com/images/0016/89/91/16039819_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/89/92/16039829_large.jpg?v=1

http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/89/38/16039883_large.jpg?v=1

that is all john

Got the intake swiched, but broke the lower bolt on the thermastat housing while changing the housing.
Spent most of the next day getting it out. Pulled the timing chain cover so I could drill it out. While I had it apart, when ahead and changed the timing chain & gears. spent today putting the front of the motor back togather and changing valve covers.


john

I find that the dip stick tube comes up under the heater/ ac air box. is there a mod/ differnt tube that makes it easy to get to?

Just want to know what others are doing for this ,need to replace the seal any way. May see if the tube canbe shortend/ altered first.

I reshaped my tube to curve up around the bell housing and welded a tab on to bolt to the back of the head. The dipstick is tucked neatly at the back of the intake behind the throttle body. bearsngr

Got it bent to the frount. anyone know what size "o" ring it takes?
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I've looked high and low for one of those stupid o-rings, no one had one that matched up. I found this at o'reilly

Pioneer Inc. - Automatic Transmission Dipstick Tube Seal
Part Number: 762001-10 from Orielys. phychopete
from a o d dipstick tube


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from edelbrock intack manifold gaskets

I recently got a edelbrock intake for my 302/ 5l and was wondering what you would use on the gaskets ? I got mine used so it didnt come with every thing like the newone would have. here is the on line insructions http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../350-71211.pdf
the instruction say to use some type of seallent on the heads /manifold and gaskets page 4&5, and rtv at the frount and rear of manifold. found these instruction also http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...0/350-2121.pdf

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85_Ranger4x4
I use a product called "high-tack" or something like that, it is what I tell the parts store guys and what I get. I just spray it on the head side and let it set up a little, it holds the gasket in place while I wrangle the silicone and intake around.

My Weiand intake instructions said pretty much the same thing, run a bead (thick enough to touch the intake and squish a little the whole length) of silicone (I used Permatex Ultra Black) on the front and back of the lifter valley. Overlap it a little with the regular gaskets so you get a good seal there too. SBF's are sort of known to push out gaskets, this is my first one so I just followed my directions, no leaks and I have done it twice (changed the cam and lifters)


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So , the Elelbrock gop is just to hold the gaskets in place?

Here are the Weiand instructions I followed, they may be a little clearer.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...s/wnd-w535.pdf

The spray is just to hold the gaskets in place and maybe help them seal a tad better. My dad has done it for years on gaskets on all sorts of things. I first learned of the silicone across the front and rear of the intake from an old timer that builds racecar engines on the side and worked with my brother at his first dealership.

Spray the side gaskets with sealant (Permatex 80065), chuck the end gaskets in the trash and replace with a 1/4" bead of oil resistant silicone (Permatex Ultra Black). Quote:
Originally Posted by 85_Ranger4x4
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I've been using Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2 and Fel Pro gaskets for years.... never once let me down. It gives you plenty of time to get everything together, and it's tacky enough to hold them in place while you are assembling it.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...70&cagpspn=pla
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shane96ranger

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Thanks. I have used adheasive and sealant on other gasket but only sealant around the water ports and end gaskets on intakes. lean something new every day.

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From space between radiator and fan

What would be the least amount of space between a mechical fan and the radiator?

I'd go as close as half and inch if it isn't a flex fan. adsm08

2.3l fan/with cluch

Well, that isn't a flex fan. adsm08

maybe we misunderstood the question? If it has a fan shroud the blades can be a couple inches from the radiator....the fan needs to fit far enough into the shroud to form a vacuum.....

BUT....like ads_ said keep the blades at least 1/2" away from the radiator
doorgunner



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THanks, i was thinking it would be more than that.

You don't need a lot of space, just enough so the fan doesn't hit the rad and kill it. Now it won't be fun to work on like that, but it will work. adsm08

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Radiator is in droped and set in to where the ac use to be. 2.3L fan is in with over 1 inch maybe 1 1/4 clearance at the closes point. Radiator to low to and fan close to use fan shroud.
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from fuel Plumbing and electrical Issues

...........I am not sure if this helps or not,but I converted my 95 mustang to carb by useing a 1988 ranger in tank fuel pump.


I got the ideal when my 1988 ranger fuel injected intake fuel pump went out.I realized it had a pusher (intake low pressure pump) and in high pressure on the rail pump. Silver tooth

I am going carb as well, asked about the ranger low presure pump and got someone that was positive that a carb has to have 7psi exact(carbs are not a pressure opperated like injectors) all they need is anougth flow and not to much pressure . thanks for the info.
Are you useing the return?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertooth
No return ,just a line going to the carb.I just grounded the wire for the fuel pump relay so it will run in start and key on.
The pump I used is for an 1988 ranger fuel injected (in tank,low pressure)I got it at auto zone,I think it was about 50$.

thank, thats what I needed to know

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just adding some from other related threads that I have dunn or may use.

John

Doing a search and found your post.Great job and ...........you are doing all that work outside. Wow!

Wher did you get that hood? Is that a steel cowl or fiberglass?

Hand made steel an expearimental. -jmcleek

http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/78/69/16038796_large.jpg?v=1

That was a cold day! We nearly froze our toes off. It was fun to put the engine in though, finally. Here's a pic of the Other prodject I would like to talk the old man into finishing! Enjoy! -Daughter of jmcleek

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3143/2241/7856120001_large.jpg?v=0

You need to go into buisnes making those steel cowl scoops. Looks a he!! of a lot better than the fiberglass one I tried to graft onto my hood.

That hood is done by cutting the center lose and raising it and filling in with 3" pipe quartered, and fitted in+ welded.

http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/78/69/16038796_medium.jpg?v=1
This is Becca my 19 year old This willbe her daily driver when done. Part of the deal for the truck is that she must help. She is also enrolled in automotive tec. at Ivtec. I tell her that thi truck is "to redneck" for her. -jmcleek

I tell him that it isn't too "Redneck." Silly him! Just because it has a hood scoop, lift kit, huge engine, and is going to have larger tires and wheels, doesn't mean it is too "Redneck" for a couple rednecks. That is all the fun! -Daughter of jmcleek

Well, heres a little update for the Redneck Ranger prodject. We went in and checked out all the wiring under the hood. The electrical books were helpful in telling us what color the wire wasn't going to be, but we eventually got it all sorted out. We went and re-wired it to the point of getting rid of anything that went to the pcm, (computer).

The newest thing we are working on we had just finished today. The Old Man found the power steiring pump bracket, (finally!) from the donor ranger and put it on today. Also put the pulley on the power steiring pump and my little green monster envied his handy little pulley instelation took kit. After we got that all situated out, we realized that it was not lined up right. So after a little head scratching and yanking around on the power steiring bracket/pump/whatever we could get our hands on, off we went to the the hardwhere store to get some washers and bolts and got it lined up just nicley. Also the Old Man made a brace for the first power steiring bracket so that it wouldn't vibrate and break a few important parts.
-Daughter of jmcleek

The power steiring bracket originated from a 2.9 1988 V-6 Ranger. -jmcleek

The most important tool we have in our "shop" at the moment is a vise that was bolted onto a stump some years ago. I have see the Old Man go and cart that heavy SOB just about everywhere and have seen him work on braces for welding, control arm bushings, u-joints, and just about anything else that would fit into the jaws. It always works! -Daughter of jmcleek

Been running for about a month now. First probem to take care of was a shifting problem. We used a lokar kick down cable and no mater how we adjusted it we could not get it to shift from 2nd to 3rd. We finally found that manally shifting through the gears a few times fixed this. This is with a aod trans.

Some of you may remmember the thred on oil presure safty switch . it worked at I intended the switch was threaded into the oil filter relocaition kit( the part with the filter on it) on the core support and was wired in on the ground leg of the fuel pump relay and keeps the pump off under 9 lbs of oil presure. Wish I would have put the oil pressure sending unit there also.

After seeing this vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gj2utt1oSQE
I figered out part of the cold start probem and changed the vacuum port I was useing for vacuum advance.

After seeing this vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEeKYZS-Stg
I adjusted the mix screws.

had a little preingnition knock so I read this http://www.supras.org.nz/techinfo/detonation.htm and set the timeing to 12 dg btdc

Fast idle is 1500 rpm idle is1000 rpm. May have to play a little with the setting.

This is becca's daily driver so I want it right. Anyone have any thing to add ?

I have yet to try the ported vacuum port on mine, been using the manifold port for the dizzy. Mine has cold start issued but that's because I adjusted my choke in the winter to stay closed longer but didn't adjust it fit summer so I have to pump a bit more but she starts up.

My issue I have is it surges when getting on the throttle sometimes until I get up to a certain rpm (need to fix my tach) and I'm not exactly sure how to fix, adjust, etc...for that plus my mileage isn't the greatest either, not as worried about that though.

My truck is my DD too so having time to fix it isn't easy.

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