Replacing the clutch kit, how hard it is?

Hello everyone, my 1995 Ford Ranger XL 2.3l is having issues with the throw out bearing, it grinds when the clutch pedal is pressed, I got a quote from a local garage to have it fixed but it is out of my budget right now, I'm starting a business and cash is short at best, lol. I'm mechanically inclined and have a basic set of tools, I have done things on this truck before, like replacing the timing belt, replacing the fuel pump; on a old series 2 land rover I replaced the head gasket, and have done top engine rebuilds on motorcycles; I wanted to know how hard and how much expertise is needed to replace the clutch kit on the truck and if I would be able to do it with basic tools, I don't have a lift so I would rely on jack stands, is it possible to do it that way? Do you think is a good idea for a rookie to give it a try, or is it a terrible idea?.

Cheers.

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Based on the list of things you've done in the past, this is certainly something you can handle. You'll need plenty of time and a spare vehicle so that you're not rushing to turn it around in a day. Definitely get a complete clutch kit and consider replacing the rear main, slave cylinder, etc while you're in there.

fastpakr said:

Based on the list of things you've done in the past, this is certainly something you can handle. You'll need plenty of time and a spare vehicle so that you're not rushing to turn it around in a day. Definitely get a complete clutch kit and consider replacing the rear main, slave cylinder, etc while you're in there.

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Thanks for the answer, I can live a week or two with just my motorcycle, I will take 2 weeks vacation next week so it is the perfect time to do it.

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I changed mine out on a 1994 2.3L some years ago. You have a much higher skill set than I do, given your past track record of work.

I failed to change out the rear seal, which I believe is now leaking.

I found that having the transmission attachment to my hydraulic jack was very beneficial because there was no one there to help me get the transmission down and up.

I seem to remember having to go through a wheel well to get to a difficult to reach bolt on the transmission. I'm not sure if I had to, but it made it easier. It was on the passenger side.

I also had a very big issue once I had everything back installed. The gears in my transmission were misaligned or something because (if I remember all the details right) when I was in 1st gear, I would go in reverse, and I could not access all my gears.

I think I accidentally messed something up when I had my transmission off that made it stuck.

I shoved a huge screwdriver down there and just kept jerking it around until something became unstuck. I still have no idea what I did, but it worked.

Don't just consider changing the slave while you are there. Actually do it.

The internal concentric slaves have a tendency to fail after being disturbed if they are old. If you don't do it now you will likely be pulling your transmission again within the month.

Get yourself a 13mm ratchet wrench and it will be your friend taking the clutch out... seriously I think all bellhousing bolts are obtainable from underneath with that wrench...

Just for something stupid to try, it might fix your problem for free... put the clutch pedal to the floor and slip your foot off the pedal, do that 3 times and see if it shifts better... if it does you had air in your master cylinder which is sounds like your problem...

I've changed my clutch like 4 times, the first two were without anything special, I used a ratchet strap over the frame rails under the transmission to hold it up and work it down (the transmission only weighs like 50lb, I've muscled it up alone before by hand... I was younger then...). I agree on the slave, not a bad idea as it is not likely a throw out bearing issue, it's a hydraulic issue, grinding means it isn't disengaging which means not enough throw not the grumbling that a throw out bearing would make...

scotts90ranger said:

Get yourself a 13mm ratchet wrench and it will be your friend taking the clutch out... seriously I think all bellhousing bolts are obtainable from underneath with that wrench...

Just for something stupid to try, it might fix your problem for free... put the clutch pedal to the floor and slip your foot off the pedal, do that 3 times and see if it shifts better... if it does you had air in your master cylinder which is sounds like your problem...

I've changed my clutch like 4 times, the first two were without anything special, I used a ratchet strap over the frame rails under the transmission to hold it up and work it down (the transmission only weighs like 50lb, I've muscled it up alone before by hand... I was younger then...). I agree on the slave, not a bad idea as it is not likely a throw out bearing issue, it's a hydraulic issue, grinding means it isn't disengaging which means not enough throw not the grumbling that a throw out bearing would make...

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Will definitely try that!, I will bleed it and see what happens.

Cheers.

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It hasn't been mentioned yet, but if I were you, I would definitely replace the pilot bearing if you are going to tackle this. I have had a pilot bearing go bad before, it can cause a grinding noise when you press the clutch. The input shaft of the trans is turning the same speed as the flywheel without the clutch, but when you press the clutch in, the flywheel continues turning and the input shaft speed changes. If the pilot bearing is bad, it can make a gnarly grinding noise as the input shaft is unable to spin freely relative to the flywheel.

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DanInVA said:

It hasn't been mentioned yet, but if I were you, I would definitely replace the pilot bearing if you are going to tackle this. I have had a pilot bearing go bad before, it can cause a grinding noise when you press the clutch. The input shaft of the trans is turning the same speed as the flywheel without the clutch, but when you press the clutch in, the flywheel continues turning and the input shaft speed changes. If the pilot bearing is bad, it can make a gnarly grinding noise as the input shaft is unable to spin freely relative to the flywheel.

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That was exactly the issue, the throw out bearing was fine, but the pilot bearing was in million pieces, it was a pain in the bottom to take it off.

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ricardoguitars said:

That was exactly the issue, the throw out bearing was fine, but the pilot bearing was in million pieces, it was a pain in the bottom to take it off.

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They are definitely a pain to deal with, I feel your pain there. On the input shaft of the trans, is the very end of it that rides on the pilot bearing still nice and smooth? They cam get marred up by the pilot bearing when it comes apart.

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