Slave cylinder replacement

jobar · Dec 19, 2008

How hard would it be to remove the transmission and replace the slave cylinder? Would it be easier to have a shop do it? I have a M50D-R1

MAKG · Dec 19, 2008

Of course it's easier to have a shop do it.

It's easier to have a shop fill your gas tank for you, too.

No one can answer how hard this is for you without some idea of your skills.

jobar · Dec 19, 2008

I was wondering how hard it was to remove and replace? I should of worded that differently. Ive touched every part of a truck expect for the trans. I have no experience with a trans. I wanted to replace myself because money is tight, but should I just have a shop do it.

MAKG · Dec 19, 2008

If you can remove an engine, you can remove a transmission.

jobar · Dec 19, 2008

alright

BlackBII · Dec 19, 2008

Remove clutch line and shifter
Remove driveshaft
Remove 6 or so 1/2" bolts holding tranny to motor
Remove tranny X member
Either get a jack or he-man the tranny out. (It's sometimes fun getting it past the Y pipe)
Remove 2 10mm bolts holding on slave(have to get the throwout bearing off first of course)
Replace slave, bolt it all back up

It's pretty easy.
New slaves run about 90$
May wanna replace clutch while your in there.

Earl43P · Dec 19, 2008

I've done a couple 4 bangers this year, so I'll add to this.

Leave the xmember attached to the bottom of the tranny, unbolt from frame.

Use downward pressure on the xmember to tilt the engine up (hood open, watching for impacts in the engine bay). Prop it like that if you don't have a helper to stand on the xmember while you get those two bolts. You should get a lot of clearance by doing that to remove the top two bolts in the tranny. If you can get those two bolts out first, you can do the rest without much difficulty.

Of course, you obviously have to remove the DS first, another test of your skill. 12 pt 12mm socket/wrench if I recall correctly.

Now I am not trying to insult you, but if you can't get those two tasks accomplished right off the bat, punt this job to a shop. I did the last one (out and back in, new tranny) in less than 3 hours, but I had a helper pull the DS, etc. while I did starter and tranny bolts.

It's a 4 banger, so the Y-pipe doesn't exist. You will have an exhaust hangar bolted to the xmember. Have to get that off before tilting the motor up, then put those big bolts back in while you push xmember down to get those top two bolts.

You should absolutely replace that $5 rear seal that the DS goes through too.

BlackBII · Dec 19, 2008

Earl43P said:
Of course, you obviously have to remove the DS first, another test of your skill. 12 pt 12mm socket/wrench if I recall correctly.

Yup. 12pt 12mm

Earl43P said:
It's a 4 banger, so the Y-pipe doesn't exist. You will have an exhaust hangar bolted to the xmember. Have to get that off before tilting the motor up, then put those big bolts back in while you push xmember down to get those top two bolts.

Doh! Missed that one. Never had a 4banger myself

jobar · Dec 19, 2008

BlackBII said:
May wanna replace clutch while your in there.

That was next on my list after I got the slave replaced.

Thanks Earl, and BlackBII that was alot of help. :icon_cheers:

I didnt see anything in the tech libary about removing the trans. Somebody needs to add that in there.

jobar · Dec 19, 2008

Earl43P said:
Of course, you obviously have to remove the DS first, another test of your skill. 12 pt 12mm socket/wrench if I recall correctly.

Yea, ive already removed the DS twice this year so thats no problem.

Bryan22 · Dec 19, 2008

That's a slick trick to get the top 2 bolts out, I had a helluva time getting at those when i did my clutch. I took a wrench and bent it so I could get at them easier, and on my 3.0 one of the top bolts also held some sort of washer/wire retainer , trying to line all that junk up blind and getting the bolt back in was fun.

P.S. If you're by yourself, you might just leave the tranny up there, slide it back just enought to replace everything and roll it back into the motor with the help of your jack. if you set it on the ground trying to get it back up there while laying on your back by yourself could turn out to be a PITA.

BlackBII · Dec 19, 2008

Bryan22 said:
That's a slick trick to get the top 2 bolts out, I had a helluva time getting at those when i did my clutch. I took a wrench and bent it so I could get at them easier, and on my 3.0 one of the top bolts also held some sort of washer/wire retainer , trying to line all that junk up blind and getting the bolt back in was fun.

I have always used a Ratcheting flex head wrench. It was worth the 50$ for the set just so I could take those two bolts out. :icon_thumby:

Bryan22 · Dec 19, 2008

ya, i've got a nice set of american ratchet wrenches since then. Seems like everytime I need a ratcheting wrench it's on a metric bolt though. lol. Maybe merry x-mas to me.

BlackBII · Dec 19, 2008

Gotta get both sets!

(but then your brother always ends up losing the ones you need when he borrows 'em)

Bryan22 · Dec 19, 2008

Haha, so true. It's always the oddball sizes that you don't have an extra one of too. My main problem is I have a 3 drawer craftsman toolbox I got for chrismas when I was like 8 years old, with about 7 drawers worth of tools in it. looks like a volcano.

Slave cylinder replacement

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Ranger Custom

Well-Known Member

Ranger Custom

New Member

New Member

New Member

Ranger Custom

New Member

Ranger Custom

New Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals