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5.0 V8...no start...


shr3dd3r 09

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Okay so I have a 2000 Ranger with a 5.0 out of a 2000 Mountaineer. It's been sitting for a couple of years, and I recently started doing some restoration. Once I got it mostly put back together and hooked all the wiring up it fired right up and I let it run for a while. I've done this a few times over the last few weeks as I've been working on it and it has started right up every time until now.

Now all of a sudden it won't start. I'm not hearing the fuel pump with the ignition on, and all it will do is crank. I'm getting a 1:6 pattern from the theft light with the ignition on. It flashes rapidly with the key on for a while, then flashes 6 times...pauses...flashes 6 times...and so on. From what I understand this means a "faulty link between PATS and EECV."

So I don't know what I did to cause this. The entire PATS system and keys were swapped from the Mountaineer three years ago. Maybe I jostled something around while working on it and jostling the wiring harness. Amy ideas what the problem might be? Does anyone know what wires go from the PCM to the PATS system?

Just some info about the truck for reference:

2000 Ranger with 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 and wiring harness
M5ODR2 & BW4406
SCT chip (delete auto trans functions, EGR)
 


Jbrown1238

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Okay so I have a 2000 Ranger with a 5.0 out of a 2000 Mountaineer. It's been sitting for a couple of years, and I recently started doing some restoration. Once I got it mostly put back together and hooked all the wiring up it fired right up and I let it run for a while. I've done this a few times over the last few weeks as I've been working on it and it has started right up every time until now.

Now all of a sudden it won't start. I'm not hearing the fuel pump with the ignition on, and all it will do is crank. I'm getting a 1:6 pattern from the theft light with the ignition on. It flashes rapidly with the key on for a while, then flashes 6 times...pauses...flashes 6 times...and so on. From what I understand this means a "faulty link between PATS and EECV."

So I don't know what I did to cause this. The entire PATS system and keys were swapped from the Mountaineer three years ago. Maybe I jostled something around while working on it and jostling the wiring harness. Amy ideas what the problem might be? Does anyone know what wires go from the PCM to the PATS system?

Just some info about the truck for reference:

2000 Ranger with 2000 Mountaineer 5.0 and wiring harness
M5ODR2 & BW4406
SCT chip (delete auto trans functions, EGR)
I am sure others with more knowledge will chime in here shortly. I had the same issue twice with mine (99 Ranger/2000 Mountaineer), the first time it turned out to be low on fuel and the second time it was a blown fuse. Just two easy things to check first. I thought there was no way it could be out of gas but it just didn't like being that low in the tank.
 

RonD

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2000 Mountaineer will have Type B PATS

This type will have a separate PATS module, usually located above the glove box.
This module is connected to the "wand" around the key cylinder and then connected to the PCM(computer).
If PATS key ID matches a key ID stored in memory then module sends "OK to start" to PCM, PCM responds "OK, got it"

The "Faulty link between PATS module and EEC", is coming from the Module's indicator light, not from the PCM's CEL(check engine light)

So it could just be a blown fuse.
Is the CEL coming on with the key, if not maybe PCM is not being powered.
There is usually a 30amp fuse in engine fuse box that powers PCM(EEC or PCM Fuse)
There is also a PCM(EEC) Relay that passes that 30amp power to PCM, this relay should "click" when key is turned on.
This relay is closed by ignition switch power(key on)
 
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shr3dd3r 09

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The CEL light does come on with the key on, so I assume the PCM is okay. The theft light does as well, then starts flashing rapidly before repeating a 1:6 pattern.

I checked the fuses and they look good. I swapped the fuel pump relay with the horn relay and verified that the horn works, but the truck still won't start.

I then checked the voltage at the fuel pump connector with the key in the on position, and I got about 6.7V. The voltage across the battery terminals reads 12-13V. Is the fuel pump only supposed to get that much voltage?

I can't hear it priming when I turn the key. I also hit the button on the inertia switch to reset it and still no start. If the fuel pump is only supposed to get 6-7V, then I guess I could have a bad pump.
 

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Voltage at inertia switch or at the pump will only show 12volts(battery volts) for 2 seconds just after key is turned on, or when engine is running.

Rest of the time with key on it will show 5 to 7 volts, so yes that is normal, but not enough to run the fuel pump, that's the computers Monitor Voltage you are seeing, computer monitors if fuel pump is getting 12v when it has turned on fuel pump relay.

The 1:6 pattern on Theft Light means PATS is not allowing engine to start.
"Faulty link between PATS module and EEC"
So if it isn't a fuse then check the connector at PATs module
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Voltage at inertia switch or at the pump will only show 12volts(battery volts) for 2 seconds just after key is turned on, or when engine is running.

Rest of the time with key on it will show 5 to 7 volts, so yes that is normal, but not enough to run the fuel pump, that's the computers Monitor Voltage you are seeing, computer monitors if fuel pump is getting 12v when it has turned on fuel pump relay.

The 1:6 pattern on Theft Light means PATS is not allowing engine to start.
"Faulty link between PATS module and EEC"
So if it isn't a fuse then check the connector at PATs module
Check the connector for what? Is there a way to verify that it's getting the right signal from the key transceiver? Based on the 1:6 code it looks like either a trip to a dealership or a PATS delete. I'm thinking I might just have PATS deleted so it won't cause me any more headache.
 

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Probably worth the time and effort to verify the wiring between the transceiver and PATS module and the PATS module and PCM.

If all that is good, think I'd swap out the transceiver before dropping the coin on a custom tune or tow/repair at the dealer.
 

RonD

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There is a separate code for a Key issue.

PATS Codes are seen here, 2nd post: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/590032-anti-theft-pats-trouble-codes.html

PATS module and Engine computer(EECV) are separate components on your 2000 engine/computer from Mountaineer.
And they were a "married" pair, so you can't swap the PATS module or the EECV separately, or they won't be able to "talk" to each other.

So I assume you got BOTH of these pieces from the Mountaineer, and are not using the Rangers PATS module with the Mountaineer EECV, because you would get 1:6 flashing because they can not "talk".
"Faulty link between PATS module and EEC"
"Marrying" is when each piece is give a separate Private Key(numbers) and a Public Key(more numbers), the "talking" between them is encrypted with both numbers, the Public key used is shared and couldn't help someone "listening in" to "talk" to either piece.
It will be similar to RSA encryption, although I don't know what system Ford uses.
This is a very simple system to enable, and even using short Keys, it would take a super fast computer a few years to crack, so a thief wouldn't have time to over ride it or "break it" with a laptop.
And each "married pair" uses different Keys so "breaking" one won't help with the next one.

A Ford Dealer can "remarry" these units, takes a few hours, but that's a security issue not a because it actually takes that long.
The process requires a subscription to Fords data base, both pieces are connected to a computer that has access to this data base, and both must be in the vehicle and hooked up to all systems, then both are "interrogated" to make sure they match their original programming from the factory.
Both can then be "re-married" if the process is found to be legit, this is how Ford Shops can replace EECs or PATS modules, PITA I am sure.

There is no reason to get the 1:6 code if both pieces were from the Mountaineer, unless wiring is an issue.

If you swap PATS module you also have to swap ignition key cylinders so you could use the PATS keys from the Mountaineer in the Ranger
 

shr3dd3r 09

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There is a separate code for a Key issue.

PATS Codes are seen here, 2nd post: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/590032-anti-theft-pats-trouble-codes.html

PATS module and Engine computer(EECV) are separate components on your 2000 engine/computer from Mountaineer.
And they were a "married" pair, so you can't swap the PATS module or the EECV separately, or they won't be able to "talk" to each other.

So I assume you got BOTH of these pieces from the Mountaineer, and are not using the Rangers PATS module with the Mountaineer EECV, because you would get 1:6 flashing because they can not "talk".
"Faulty link between PATS module and EEC"
"Marrying" is when each piece is give a separate Private Key(numbers) and a Public Key(more numbers), the "talking" between them is encrypted with both numbers, the Public key used is shared and couldn't help someone "listening in" to "talk" to either piece.
It will be similar to RSA encryption, although I don't know what system Ford uses.
This is a very simple system to enable, and even using short Keys, it would take a super fast computer a few years to crack, so a thief wouldn't have time to over ride it or "break it" with a laptop.
And each "married pair" uses different Keys so "breaking" one won't help with the next one.

A Ford Dealer can "remarry" these units, takes a few hours, but that's a security issue not a because it actually takes that long.
The process requires a subscription to Fords data base, both pieces are connected to a computer that has access to this data base, and both must be in the vehicle and hooked up to all systems, then both are "interrogated" to make sure they match their original programming from the factory.
Both can then be "re-married" if the process is found to be legit, this is how Ford Shops can replace EECs or PATS modules, PITA I am sure.

There is no reason to get the 1:6 code if both pieces were from the Mountaineer, unless wiring is an issue.

If you swap PATS module you also have to swap ignition key cylinders so you could use the PATS keys from the Mountaineer in the Ranger
The computer, PATS module, key cylinder, and keys are all from the Mountaineer. They'd have to be otherwise it wouldn't ever have started to begin with. I've only just come across this issue. So is there any way to troubleshoot this myself? I can remove the key cylinder and put it back in. Maybe something jiggled loose. Same goes with the PATS module behind the air bag. Aside from that I don't know. It does not sound very appealing to me to have a dealership keep it for several hours and then collect several hundred dollars from me. A tune would be $100 probably. Any opinions on what I should do?

Side note: could PATS issues cause intermittent stalling? That was an issue I had back when I was driving the truck a couple years ago, and I never figured it out. It would stall at random while driving. I haven't gotten it back on the road yet to see if I still have that problem.
 

Jbrown1238

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Are you using the same key that worked fine before? Just another crazy idea? Even though my PATS was disabled with a custom tune it still requires a coded key. Just wanted to make sure you didn't get a couple keys mixed up, coded key verses non coded key. It can happen. I accidentally mixed up my Ranger 3.0 ECM with my Mountaineer 5.0 ECM. The truck started and ran with the six cylinder ECM but had a pretty good miss!
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Are you using the same key that worked fine before? Just another crazy idea? Even though my PATS was disabled with a custom tune it still requires a coded key. Just wanted to make sure you didn't get a couple keys mixed up, coded key verses non coded key. It can happen. I accidentally mixed up my Ranger 3.0 ECM with my Mountaineer 5.0 ECM. The truck started and ran with the six cylinder ECM but had a pretty good miss!
Yeah it's the same key. I actually only have one key for it. Never made a spare. Probably should do that.
 

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Ron, where did you get the idea that the parameter reset (the "remarrying") takes hours?

Security access takes 10 minutes, the reset takes about 2 more.
 

shr3dd3r 09

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So I sent my chip off to the tuner and he deleted the PATS system. I get the chip back, hook everything up, and still no start. Just crank crank crank crank. Theft light on the dash is blinking rapidly, followed by the 1:6 code pattern. Should this even be happening if PATS has been deleted? The PATS module is still hooked up, but does that matter?
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Update: I took the airbag out on the passenger side and unplugged the PATS module. With it unplugged I tried to start it and it would not even crank. I then plugged the PATS module back in and boom... it fired right up. I'm glad it started...but I'm also really confused.
 

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