i need wiring guru for direction

I think i might need a bit of help converting a (gm style) wiring system into a 83 ranger.

Here is what i have done so far.

1 - Battery is in the box of truck, ran a good thick wire to the aftermarket high torque starter.

2 - MSD ignition box (+) wire runs to the starter (same post at the bat cable)

3 - 140 amp alt is thick wired (8G) to the same starter post as battery + cable.

4 - In the dash is a ammeter (sorta like how factory placed it in cluster (after market) not wired to anything yet.
not 100% sure where to wire it.

(need to figure out where to pig tail in the 2 wire jumper off the alternator)

5 - need help finding the wires to plug into the fuse box to give the truck its electrical system. and where to wire these in.

6 - need help to get the ignition wires to the built in solenoid on the starter. I know it turns over I have turned it over and have it wired just not to a key/switch yet.

I have solid grounds going to the box, the frame, the cab, but haven't connected a solid strap to the motor yet.

here are a couple links to the build so far and whats been done to the truck.

cheers and any advice will be great. (not afraid to wire this up, just a bit lost on direction)

the 4 year build

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156327


battery system

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168499

#1, so you are using the starter motor's larger post as the Power Distribution point?
I would get something like this for the batteries positive cable, mounted in the engine bay: https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insulated-Battery-Junction-thread/dp/B00784HYI2
Then run same size cable as battery cable from there to starter motor.
Then you can add fusible links/inline fuses to there from alternator and other electrics

Ends up like this: https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/893166/fullsize/power-distribution-stud.jpg
And you DO NOT want this on the starter motors stud, lol

Your year would have had a starter relay(solenoid) on the fender, one of its larger posts was the power distribution point, Battery Positive cable hooked up there, alternator and everything else that needed 12volts, hooked to that one post

#2 MSD power should run from a Key On circuit, Should be a Red/light green stripe wire, that was used to power stock coil/distributor system
Diagram here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

Power to the ignition switch would come from the Yellow wire that would be hooked to "Battery Post" in engine bay, in above diagram, it needs an inline fuse or fusible link at "battery post"

#3, alternator's B+ wire needs to be Fused, Megafuse or fusible links , image here: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-tech/159942d1342183672-130-amp-6g-alternator-upgrade-mega-fuse-mounteds.jpg

You also need to run same size Negative battery cable to the engine, not negotiable, lol
Can't use the frame and body for the high amp circuits, starter motor and alternator are the only high amp circuits.
You can run negative cable to starter motor bolt, that's fine, then ground strap from engine to frame, engine to cab, engine to rad support(head light ground)

Electricity runs in a circuit, if starter motor uses 60amps to crank engine then 60 amps flow out the positive cable and 60 amps flow back into battery on negative cable, so 60 amps flowing thru the bed, body, and frame.......not a great idea
And then theres the alternator, 40-100amps, same thing, you do not want these higher amps flowing thru body and frame, run the larger cable from engine to battery.
Head lights and tail lights run maybe 10amps, this is fine to run thru body and frame ground

#4, Amp meter, diagram here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/diagram_charging_1983to1985_1.JPG
Amp meter measures current flow instead of Voltage, new Rangers use a Volt Meter

Simplest way to hook back up your Amp Meter would be to hook the Meters Yellow/light green wire to alternators B+ terminal
Hook Red/orange wire to Battery +, i.e. power distribution point
If alternator has more "voltage" than battery, amp meter goes to + side(Charge), if less then meter goes to - side(discharge)
The possible 120amps does NOT pass thru amp meter, electricity always travels on the easiest pathway, so the larger wire gets the AMPs, amp meter just swings with currents direction of flow, to battery, charging, away from battery, discharging.
But these wires are Hot All The Time, so they need to be in good condition, they are usually not fused, but you can add a fuse to either wire.
"Amp Meter Shunt" is not a "part", its just a description of how wiring needs to be done, one wire closer to battery, one wire closer to alternator, thats the "shunt", if you reversed the wires then it would reverse the charge/discharge direction of needle.

#5, can't help on fuse box, there should be full time power wire from power distribution point
And should be key on power from ignition switch.

#6, you should look for Red/Light Blue wire in engine bay, it would have ran to Starter relay(solenoid) on inner fender, that's the wire you would connect to starter motors built in Relay, this wire will have 12v when key is turn to START, assuming Yellow wire on ignition switch is hooked up to 12v


Nice build

Thanks for the detailed reply Ron! thanks for the compliment on build. (it's getting closer) lol

#1 - I get the point about not turning the post into a mess of connections. I have also added a 6 spade fuse box in the place where battery would be mounted. (see pic) this is for added stuff. (power for addition extras, halo lights, extra horn (switched in cab) I am trying to keep it clean under hood. If the battery cable to starter can take the added alternator hooked to it with out a major problem, I would like to keep it there for ease of tracing the wires. If needed to move I will. The MSD wire that I wired there is for the main power for the MSD AL6 Box. their web site said that it is an ok place to get power from if battery is long ways from motor. These will be the only connections to the starter. (see pic)

2 - The MSD wire is the 1 I mentioned above to help give depth to the starter's wiring.

I also need to wire the red (fire ignition) wire to the key on/start for the MSD box. hence finding what wire cones from the key. I have the ground for the main cable that is supposed to go to battery on the cab ground. ( will this give enough ground)

3 - "alternator's B+ wire needs to be Fused," I am guessing you are saying the battery + wire? The one i have going to the starter? Fully understand a fuse here, never thought about 1 before now. Thanks

Understanding the Neg cable to motor block, never worded it before now and was just mentioning the strap. (haven't grounded that yet!!)


4 - amp meter, thanks for the diagram that helps show and explain where i was confused. thanks for the explanation!! plain English and easy to understand. will shout if i need more help there. should be good now.

5 - i will get that one...

6 - .... ok when i find the Red/Light Blue wire, this goes to the starter solenoid and to the MSD ignition box? what yellow wire you talking about? This is the switch for start relay? or key on? i also have theft protection that needs to be active when key crank is hit. but off for key on. this is wired after key ignition so that is spliced into the Red/Light Blue wire... ok now i remember what i did 2 years ago!!! LOL

thanks for the help !! muchly appreciated.


1st pic added fuse block.

2nd pic is starter

3rd pic is a BMW fuse block I bought to wire up the heart of the truck. this is bolted to the plywood in the box of the truck. majority of the wires in pic go to the amps and the added stuff in the box. there are 2 major wires headed into the truck. 1 goes to the center console and from that runs the cab stereo & amp, switch rem to on. another goes to added switches in cab. then another is headed to the 6 blade fuse block under hood...

Also on the back panel rear of box is a set of - & + bat jumpers for hooking up a battery charger to for recharging the system if at a party too long and the 6 hour bat reserve goes low.

Yes, on the back of the alternator is the B+ wire terminal, it is a stud with a nut on it, Fuse needs to be rated for the AMPs, so 120amp with your alternator


Yellow wire comes from fused battery positive hookup thru firewall TO the ignition switch, its the main power wire for the cab, usually a 40-50amp fuse
When you turn the key on(RUN) it should power up most of the fuses in the cab fuse box

The red/blue stripe wire comes FROM the ignition switch, runs thru Clutch Switch or Neutral switch, then to the engine bay.
On some spark systems there is a START wire, and Red/Blue could go there as well .
But the main purpose for the Red/blue wire is to activate starter relay/solenoid, so it would go to the smaller terminal on starter motor.
Red/blue wire ONLY has 12v when key is turned to START, no volts in RUN

Thanks ron!

didn't get a chance to look into this yesterday, hopefully next day or 2. will update as it is figured out. your opinion on how I have the starter post? will it be safe?

cheers

I guess it will be safe enough

But I would use fender mounted Power Post, one reason is with Remote battery mounting "jump starting" can be an issue, you never know when you might need it or a friend might need your help,
With the power post you have a "battery terminal" in the engine bay, and ground would be engine, for starter motor or alternator AMPs

"Yellow wire comes from fused battery positive hookup thru firewall TO the ignition switch, its the main power wire for the cab, usually a 40-50amp fuse
When you turn the key on(RUN) it should power up most of the fuses in the cab fuse box"

was able to get at this project for awhile today.

after tearing open the wire harness from not being able to find the yellow wire. it is actually a orange/black wire that is junctioned with fused linked wires that makes this connection. was able to figure out that this wire joins up and splits off a few times to make the fuse box power. wired temp jumper and got power and light lights to work.

thanks for the help ron.

cheers

Good work

I do see a Black/orange stripe for headlights and fuse box in this diagram: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_Headlights_1983to1989.JPG

Then Yellow here for the ignition switch: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG