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Broken Pinch Bolt


thomasakehoe

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Hey everyone I am currently working on installing my suspension lift and have run into a problem both of the pinch bolts that tighten up the alignment bushings on the front axle beams are wrecked. One side the head of the bolt was rounded off and on the other side one half of the bolt was gone and the other half is still threaded in. I tried drilling them out but with the bits available here I worked on one for around 15 minutes straight and barely made a dimple. So I am wondering what the best fix is for this. I was thinking to use my grinder and grind a small slit across the top of where the bolt goes through so i can pop the bolt out, but wasn't sure about being able to weld this back up and still be able to use a regular bolt and nut (which Ford should have done) to pinch it back together. Any ideas are welcome. This is on a 92 Super Cab 4x4
 


canyoncritter

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dam I feel bad for you as that would be a :temper::temper: moment.


are you using a slow speed drill?....
 

thomasakehoe

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Yah it really sucks... and I am using a variable speed drill with a full cobalt drill bit after looking at info online that seemed like the best bit for the job at least that I could purchase locally. I basically drilled slow and kept stopping to spray more cutting oil on the bit and the bolt, but haven't gotten even like a half an inch in to it.
 

AllanD

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Just between you and me I've removed and discarded a beam for that exact problem.

BTW, you probably have the pinch bolts with the reduced size head that sorta sits in a recess?

I used later beams not only because of the two piston brakes but also because they use a "real" bolt head on their non-recessed pinch bolts.

BTW, if you can get them out I have two NEW pinch bolts with the small head

I bout a pair of "kits" from napa just to get the circlip for the upper ball joint
and never used the bolts.

You can have them for the cost of postage.

AD

AD
 

CopyKat

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Start drilling. I've done it and it is possible to get them out, just takes a bit of time.
 

Evan

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FYI, if you buy a Moog lower balljoint, they throw in a "real" pinch bolt.
 

thomasakehoe

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Thanks for the advise guys. By the way what year beams have the different bolt style and is it a direct swap? Just curious as I am sure I can get the one bolt out without hurting the pinch mount but on the other side it's pretty chewed up already from what I think was someones attempt to replace ball joints etc...
 

engdept

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I think the '95-'97 Ranger's had the other style pinch bolt and dual piston calipers.
 

CopyKat

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FYI, if you buy a Moog lower balljoint, they throw in a "real" pinch bolt.

Years ago when I changed the upper ball Joints they came with an Allenhead bolt to replace the POS 12 point that is on there now.

I used an allen head bolt when I rebuilt these beams, after I had to drill out that stupid ass bolt. I cracked 4 sockets trying to get the one side out, and that was with alot of heat. After stripping the head, I gave up and cut the bolt in the slice and drilled the remainder out. Cutting the bolt will releave the pressure on it.
 

thomasakehoe

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OK good info.... a couple of other things, one can this be welded with a MIG or do you need a special process to weld on the axle beams? Just curious if I could fix the really beat up side by sliding a piece of copper tube in the bolt hole filling the chewed up parts in with weld and then use a air die grinder to smooth and reshape then just run a drill through to make the hole round again. I was also looking at the setup and wondering about using the air grinder to grind off the recess part where the bolt head fits so I could use a six point head bolt and a nut on the other end. And one last thing, I have a 91 Explorer with a 4.0L and automatic that the body is really bad on was wondering if i could use the axle beam from that or if the Explorer front end is wider etc... Thanks again to everybody for their help.
 

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You can weld on the beams, they're just plain stamped steel.

Any D35 beam is also interchangeable, so those '91 beams would work fine.


Also, I would NEVER EVER use an allen head bolt on anything if an alternative is available. Definitely use a regular grade-8 bolt (& nut, if needed) on that.
 

thomasakehoe

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Thanks Junkie tomorrow I'm going to take out the front and rears of the Explorer and then over the weekend I will work on my Ranger's pinch bolts that way if I don't like what I end up with I can swap the beams from the Explorer. I plan on using the Explorer rear end anyway, just to get the 31 spline shafts setup so I can get a full spool wish it was a 95 up for the disc brakes but oh well, I'm going through pretty much every part of the front end anyways in order to install a locker, gears and to modify the axle shafts to accept an internal full c-clip on all the u joints. Wish me luck, here in the salt belt of VT the biggest problem is usually stripped, stuck or otherwise destroyed fasteners.
 

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You probably already know, but just in case...
PB Blaster is your friend (or Kroil is another I see mentioned often).

Spray those bolts real good with that stuff, should help immensely.

Good luck :icon_thumby:
 

Evan

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Years ago when I changed the upper ball Joints they came with an Allenhead bolt to replace the POS 12 point that is on there now.

I used an allen head bolt when I rebuilt these beams, after I had to drill out that stupid ass bolt. I cracked 4 sockets trying to get the one side out, and that was with alot of heat. After stripping the head, I gave up and cut the bolt in the slice and drilled the remainder out. Cutting the bolt will releave the pressure on it.

Moog gives you a grade 8 hex head bolt.

I wouldn't use an allen bolt for this application.

I always give the D35 pinch bolts a liberal coat of anti-sieze when reassembling.
 

Ranger44

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Moog gives you a grade 8 hex head bolt.

I wouldn't use an allen bolt for this application.

I always give the D35 pinch bolts a liberal coat of anti-sieze when reassembling.
Yup, they give you the nice bolt.....:)

This is what Moog gives you.

 

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