5.0 Swap Explorer Exhaust

JordanHackworth · May 16, 2017

I'm swapping a 1999 Explorer 5.0 into a 2000 3.0 Flex Fuel Ranger and the exhaust runs right into a crossmember behind the transmission.

The Explorer doesn't have that crossmember, and instead has one that bolts in closer to the transmission. Without having looked too closely at it, it doesn't seem like the gas tank is bolted to the crossmember and it could be cut out and replaced with the one from the Explorer, assuming the rest of the exhaust is a complete bolt in.

Can anyone tell me what they've done with the exhaust from the transmission back?

Thanks!

ford_ranger12 · May 16, 2017

After the second set of cats I just welded some pipe on from Oriellys then welded a flowmaster 2 chamber muffler onto each pipe and made hangers for them. Real simple and sounded awesome

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2Krngr · May 19, 2017

JordanHackworth said:
I'm swapping a 1999 Explorer 5.0 into a 2000 3.0 Flex Fuel Ranger and the exhaust runs right into a crossmember behind the transmission.

The Explorer doesn't have that crossmember, and instead has one that bolts in closer to the transmission. Without having looked too closely at it, it doesn't seem like the gas tank is bolted to the crossmember and it could be cut out and replaced with the one from the Explorer, assuming the rest of the exhaust is a complete bolt in.

Can anyone tell me what they've done with the exhaust from the transmission back?

Thanks!

The second crossmember your refering to that is bolted to the bottom of the framerails is in the extended cabs frames, and it was there to hold the carrier bearing for the 2-piece driveshaft. Some models came with a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft so there is nothing bolted to the crossmember in that case. The gastank does not mount to it, it hangs from the frame.

Most guys that are lowered or bagged just get rid of the member completely, I've had a few ext cabs without it, and noticed no differences with or without it.

If you are concered with rigidity or frame twist and want to keep it, you can always just redrill holes further back to remount it.

JordanHackworth · May 22, 2017

2Krngr said:
The second crossmember your refering to that is bolted to the bottom of the framerails is in the extended cabs frames, and it was there to hold the carrier bearing for the 2-piece driveshaft. Some models came with a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft so there is nothing bolted to the crossmember in that case. The gastank does not mount to it, it hangs from the frame.

Most guys that are lowered or bagged just get rid of the member completely, I've had a few ext cabs without it, and noticed no differences with or without it.

If you are concered with rigidity or frame twist and want to keep it, you can always just redrill holes further back to remount it.

Thank you! That makes perfect sense.

Big Puddin · May 23, 2017

I rolled around under my 03 ranger supercab last night while modifying the transmission crossmember to bolt my C6 to it. So, I'm planning duals also and looked at that brace. While it is not attached to the gas tank in any way, it appears to be protection for the gas tank and frame reinforcement. I'm leery of removing mine for those reasons. But did consider while looking at it, I might take it out, make some exhaust tubing holes in it and reinstall it. I didn't notice any other frame cross bracing other than it, in the back portion of the frame.

Big Puddin · May 26, 2017

I'm completely wrong and that other poster has great idea. Messing with mine last night, I noticed it only protects about 4" of an otherwise 3' long gas tank. And is not the only frame bracing in immediate area. The only negative is not bolted, riveted.
I decided to bust out the grinder on my own rivets and remove and intend to add to list of chores.

2Krngr · May 27, 2017

Big Puddin said:
I'm completely wrong and that other poster has great idea. Messing with mine last night, I noticed it only protects about 4" of an otherwise 3' long gas tank. And is not the only frame bracing in immediate area. The only negative is not bolted, riveted.
I decided to bust out the grinder on my own rivets and remove and intend to add to list of chores.

Sorry yes, they are riveted not bolted. Grinding the rivets is relatively quick and easy, I have done many ford rivets over the years, and the fastest method is to cut on edge and make an X or * shape in to the head first with your cutting wheel, then go at it flat and grind the pieces off, then once you ground it flush use a big punch and smack it with a mallet it will pop right out provided you have ground it completely flush to the frame.

Much faster getting some of the head material off cutting lines into it than just coming in from the side or top to grind first.

Big Puddin · May 28, 2017

Got mine out of the way yesterday afternoon, thanks for posting that tip. I made tic tac toe grid with 4" cutoff disc on electric grinder and knocked off bits with 4&1/2" grinder, then put floor jack under each side as I put some pressure and popped it with ball peen hammer little end vigorously and popped it right out. GREAT idea to remove for room.

Big Puddin · May 28, 2017

Humidity was so high here yesterday didn't want to run my compressor and keep having to drain and so forth. It was some kinda hot And muggy.

5.0 Swap Explorer Exhaust

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