Help needed Explorer 8.8 stuck axle

jim cafarelli · May 23, 2017

I just bought an explorer disc brake 373 appeared to be limited slip by turning the axle on the bench both spin the same direction,anyway pulled the cover don't see any clutches appears to be and open carrier but appears to be locked and work like a posi so I pulled the center pin pushed in the drivers side axle no problem and removed the c clip but on the passenger side it wouldn't slide in enough freely so I had to tap it in with a big hammer to get the c clip out and use a big slide hammer to pull the axle, it appears to be a press fit into the carrier...can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks ahead for any help

ericbphoto · May 23, 2017

My first thought would be to check and make sure it isn't bent.

Also, how did everything look? Is any of it rusty? Do the splines look alright where they have to engage the side gear?

There is very little that should cause binding. The axle shaft really only touches the side gear in the diff and the axle bearing and seal out at the wheel end of the housing.

Pictures?

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jim cafarelli · May 23, 2017

jim cafarelli said:
I just bought an explorer disc brake 373 appeared to be limited slip by turning the axle on the bench both spin the same direction,anyway pulled the cover don't see any clutches appears to be and open carrier but appears to be locked and work like a posi so I pulled the center pin pushed in the drivers side axle no problem and removed the c clip but on the passenger side it wouldn't slide in enough freely so I had to tap it in with a big hammer to get the c clip out and use a big slide hammer to pull the axle, it appears to be a press fit into the carrier...can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks ahead for any help

here is some photos of it apart the red arrow points to the surface the axle appears to press into ,no mauling or gouges on that or the axle

jim cafarelli · May 23, 2017

was watching some videos youtube ,,some say if it has no holes on the axle flange and if there is a tag say synthetic only 75 125 only its definitely a LSD ,,, i just bought this to put in my 1991 and now to find out its 3 inches to wide im going to sell it don't want to pawn off a bad deal so trying to figure it out

alwaysFlOoReD · May 24, 2017

How many shims were behind the side gears? If more than one per side it may be an old hot-rodding trick to make a red neck posi. The trick is to add extra shims to the side gears. It works, I've done it on a 9" and a d-28.
Edit; I'll add that I don't know if this trick would work with c-clip axles.

ericbphoto · May 24, 2017

That's an open diff.

The axle should slide freely through the hole you have marked with the arrow. the hole should be smooth and clean and big enough for the axle to rotate easily. I see what appear to be marks of some sort in there - the little black dots. You might try sanding the inside of that bore. Just the smallest diameter part where the axle shaft goes through.

The splines on the axle shaft engage inside the side gear and together, they should be able to rotate freely and independently of the carrier when you go around a corner. If there is any binding, the axle will try to maintain the same rotational speed as the carrier. That's what LSD's and lockers do. They cause that "binding" that keeps both axle shafts and the carrier rotating together at the same speed - great for traction - bad for tire wear on dry pavement.

Something abnormal is causing the binding in this diff. If you want it open, it needs to be fixed. Regardless, if it were mine I would want to find out if something is bent or misaligned.

ericbphoto · May 24, 2017

Just saw Alwaysfloored's response. That is something to consider.

jim cafarelli · May 24, 2017

First thanks much for the responses ,,, it did only have one shim per side and with the carrier out on the passenger side on either axle it fits over like a taper machine fit,, here is a photo of the passenger side axle

ericbphoto · May 24, 2017

OK. It's hard to tell without being there. You can do these 2 tests on the work bench without installing the carrier in the housing.

1. You should be able to slide either side gear onto the splines of either axle shaft easily - no hammer. Should be a nice easy, close slip fit.

2. Either shaft should slide easily through the hole you indicated in the carrier. There should be plenty of room for the shaft to slide in there without any binding at all.

If either of these tests fail, there is a definite problem. It is starting to sound like this is an aftermarket replacement shaft that isn't machined properly, assuming that this carrier belongs to this housing. It seems like the splines are not machined right.

Next. If you have a good flat work bench top, set the shaft on it and roll it around. Look to see if you detect any wobble. Does it roll but try to settle in one position no matter where you let go? This will give you a rough indication of whether the shaft is bent.

If you pass those tests, put the carrier back into the housing and try re-installing the shafts and side gears. If the binding still occurs, I would say that you have either a bent shaft or bent housing. A good differential shop could probably tell you for sure.

One more thing, and unfortunately it may be too late for this. The carrier bearing caps must always be installed on the proper side and in the proper orientation. You can not swap them from one side to the other or turn them upside down. It is usually helpful to mark them before removal so they can be put back properly. This can cause problems with the bearings but I'm not sure if it could cause the issue you are having. I don't think it would.

jim cafarelli · May 24, 2017

The passenger side of the carrier is definitely smaller then the drivers side with the axles standing up on end (like in the photo) slide the carrier over each one the passenger side of the carrier is a snug machine fit on either axle and the opposite side of the carrier (drivers) is a looser fit like were all familiar with...

orientation of caps,bearings ect is all right.. I built and or changed gears in 8.8s before probably 10 or 12 times in the past successfully used to drag race fox bodys not the guru by any means but just when i thought maybe Iv seen it all on these here I am..

from inspecting the parts I just don't see where anything has failed ,oil was debris free too

Thanks again,I may need to go to a gear shop

ericbphoto · May 24, 2017

Sorry. I didn't realize you had that much experience with diffs.

Based on how you say everything fits, it sounds like you have it narrowed down to an undersized or damaged bore on the one side. I, personally would feel comfortable with opening up that bore a little bit by drilling, reaming or even sanding it. It's not a critical or tight tolerance. It just needs to be big enough to prevent the shaft from rubbing.

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jim cafarelli · May 24, 2017

ericbphoto said:
Sorry. I didn't realize you had that much experience with diffs.

Based on how you say everything fits, it sounds like you have it narrowed down to an undersized or damaged bore on the one side. I, personally would feel comfortable with opening up that bore a little bit by drilling, reaming or even sanding it. It's not a critical or tight tolerance. It just needs to be big enough to prevent the shaft from rubbing.

Il probably hold off and have to put it aside for a week or 2 the nearest gear shop that may know some thing that we don't is almost 2 hrs round trip away.
Il be sure to report back when I know more ,,thanks again all valid points

jim cafarelli · May 26, 2017

Eric ,, you called it ,,it is bent ,I should have caught that,cant see it in the axle but sure as heck with a straight edge on the housing or axle tube,,

bum craigslist deal,,paid $250 for it guess I can recoup some thing back on the 373s and disk brakes..

Thanks again

ericbphoto · May 27, 2017

Sorry it turned out that way.

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Help needed Explorer 8.8 stuck axle

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