Removal of rear window

marriedmanw · Aug 19, 2008

I hope I get this thread in the correct place.

I looking for information on how to remove the rear solid glass from a 94 Ford Ranger regular cab, in order to install a sliding rear window? My Haynes manual didn't have any information in it as far as removal, and on a website it advised there were eight 9mm bolts holding it in. I have removed the interior seats (to work on it comfortably) and taken down all the trim and don't see any screws that would hold the window in.

I would appreciate any hints or tips on the removal.

Thanks,
Michael

young gun · Aug 19, 2008

I work at Apple Auto glass, but haven't taken the back window out of a ranger but i have taken them out of other trucks. so there could be a couple bolts in there somewhere, it might be "glued" on there. or it could be roped in. I can find the answer for u and tell you have to take it out.

cNo7 · Aug 25, 2008

it's most likely a gasket that holds the window in place on that particular year. If you've de-trimmed the rear of the cab and see no nuts/studs, then it's a gasket. Ford never urethaned in their back glasses on their trucks. Either it is a gasket-set or bolts/butyl (aka "dum dum")

I typically use a hook tool (i.e. cotter pin removal tool) from the inside and push outward on the glass frame while trying to loosen the gasket from the inside. Avoid pushing on the glass itself. Basically, there's a channel of the gasket that is wrapped over the pinchweld rather tightly to hold that glass in place.

marriedmanw · Aug 26, 2008

Thanks for the responses. I was able to slightly pry the interior gasket back and see how it's pinching the window in place. I pulled back the rubber gasket from the exterior and ensured it wasn't screwed it. I was able to manage to work it out.
Thanks again.

cNo7 · Aug 26, 2008

marriedmanw said:
Thanks for the responses. I was able to slightly pry the interior gasket back and see how it's pinching the window in place. I pulled back the rubber gasket from the exterior and ensured it wasn't screwed it. I was able to manage to work it out.
Thanks again.

Good to hear that you got it out. In terms of putting it back in, I think it's a 3/8" rope that you'll need. The channel that the pinchweld sets into is where you need to run the rope. Some people say it's best to spray a lubricant in that first...really depends on the gasket...if it appears to be old and worn out, use some lube. I typically start in the center at the bottom...tuck the rope into the channel around the glass and slightly overlap it where you started it. It's easiest to open the sliding window...then hang the remaining rope as if it's outside of the glass. Have someone help "seat it" from the outside while you crawl inside. Grab one end of the rope and pull it towards you and you'll notice that the inner part of the gasket will pull over the pinchweld. Do that toward the first corner. You might want your friend on the outside to kinda smack on the glass to help the gasket seat in place. When it comes to the corners, go slow (to avoid ripping the gasket) and then pull up to the upper corner (after your friend follows your rope-pulling with some slapping). Then go to the other end of the rope and follow the same procedure. You'll notice that it gets harder to pull since the gasket it making its seal. If for any reason it doesn't want to pull over the pinchweld, use a cotter pin removal tool and hook behind it from the inside and flip it over the pinchweld. Once you get it all "roped in", smack the perimeter of the frame from the inside to tighten it all up. Don't get upset if you have to pull it back out and start over. Sometimes they wanna rope in smooth, sometimes they can be a bear.

marriedmanw · Aug 29, 2008

cNo7 - Thanks for your reply. The window kit I purchased is a Kenco and in the instructions it also states about wrapping a rope around the window to pull it in, but didn't state the size. Your instructions are great, and I appreciate the assistance.

Removal of rear window

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