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Engine swap woes


clowe1965

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Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
17
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1
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Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
Transmission
Manual
Rant thread, though advice would be appreciated.

I've been struggling with my 302 swap for over a year now. I got the engine in the truck in a week but then ran out of vacation and spent the next few months working on and off when i felt like it or had time. It's a 68 302 from my mustang with a t-5 put in a 1992 ranger. I kept the carburetor because it's what I had, no reason to spend more money on an efi setup. Anyway I finally got it in there and got it started, then chased all the arising problems. Vacuum leaks, stripped carb studs, and charging issues. So two carb rebuilds and a new intake manifold later all the vacuum leaks are gone, and three alternators before I found a setup that works (externally regulated ones suck). I kept having misfires and played around with the timing and carb adjustments. The misfires still come and go, no idea why. I think the next step is to get rid of the edelbrock 500 and get a holley 600. Now today a new problem comes up.

This engine has less than 100 miles on it since it was purchased from autozone. While it hasn't had the best of care, it always had oil and has never overheated. But now it has a spun bearing, least there is a loud knocking from the bottom of the engine in the front. Still has good pressure though. Due to the design of the ranger, I don't think an in car repair is possible. So I get to pull the whole thing back out. Woo. Just what I wanted to do after tracking down every other problem.
 


stegomon

Active Member
V8 Engine Swap
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auburn/minot maine
Vehicle Year
1987/1990
Make / Model
fords and only
Transmission
Manual
Take off all the caps. Do you still have a sales slip for the engine?. The engine may have a one hear 12,000 mile worantee on it. Warranty on it.
 

clowe1965

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Joined
Dec 11, 2012
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Vehicle Year
1992
Make / Model
Ford
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Manual
I do have the receipt, but I've had the engine for over the 3 year period, bought it in 2008. You're saying to replace all the bearings correct? What about having the rods checked? I'd like to only take the crankshaft out so I can leave the heads intact, but if I need to pull one of the rods/pistons then that idea is thrown out the window.
 

chillidog10129

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Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
11
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0
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Location
NC
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
2.9l
Transmission
Automatic
I personnely will not buy an engine from any retail box place (autozone, oriellys, advanced auto, etc). The engines are re-manufactured on a wholesale level . A perfect example is walmart (build it cheaper) I have seen a crank cut by these companies that was .50/.40 they tried to sell me one when I rebuilt my engine I did not accept it and they got me a .10-.20 crank. Order another crank but verify the tolerances before you accept it put a high volume pump in it while your in there
 

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