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One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.


Jbrown1238

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Im very very impressed with this thread. Nice effin write up and job bro. I can only hope mine ends up half as nice.
Thank you. I hope to get an update done this week. I just hit 30,000 miles since putting it on the road. I have had a couple small problems but all in all it has run better then I ever expected.
 


Justin d

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I'm starting my swap Saturday and I can't find any information on the 12 pin plug on the battery harness that needs repining. I have read where you mentioned it in your thread. But I'm still not clear on which wires go where any information would be great thanks
 

Jbrown1238

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I'm starting my swap Saturday and I can't find any information on the 12 pin plug on the battery harness that needs repining. I have read where you mentioned it in your thread. But I'm still not clear on which wires go where any information would be great thanks
It has been some time since I worked through that part of the swap going from memory I think there was a green and white wire for the oil pressure switch, two more wires for the ac compressor switch, two more for the ac high side switch, and at least one for the starter. I am pretty sure I did cover it in detail earlier in the thread but I haven't had time to go back and look. I do remember posting three or four photos of the connections.

Do you have both EVTM's for your two vehicles? 50 % of the revised connections at the 12 pin connector were matched color for color, the other half were mixed and matched.
 

Justin d

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No I haven't got the EVTM yet I haven't found those either I will keep digging I will go back through your posts again thanks
 

Jbrown1238

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No I haven't got the EVTM yet I haven't found those either I will keep digging I will go back through your posts again thanks
I will try to dig up the info for you but it may take me a few days.
 

Jbrown1238

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No I haven't got the EVTM yet I haven't found those either I will keep digging I will go back through your posts again thanks
Justin,

Go back to post 335 and read straight through until I start the front suspension. I explain in there how I tied the two 12 pin connections together. Half of the wires are direct connections with the same color in the opposite 12 pin connector. The other half are hit and miss. Some are used and connected to other color wires and a couple are not needed at all. Everything you need should be right there. I didn't have to get behind the battery junction box or anything like that.

Jeff
 

Justin d

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Justin d

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Oh do you know where I can find the EVTMS for 99 3.0 ranger and 99 explorer sorry for all the questions wiring is not my strong point
 

thunder351

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I have a copy of the 99 Ranger. Let me know what you need and I can email to it you.
 

Jbrown1238

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Oh do you know where I can find the EVTMS for 99 3.0 ranger and 99 explorer sorry for all the questions wiring is not my strong point
I think you have half the problem solved (see the post above). I found both of mine on eBay for a couple bucks a piece. No problem with the questions! I asked plenty here as well during my journey. I know what you mean about the wiring, that is the one part that I really feared about the swap. It turned out to be pretty simple but I would recommend getting both EVTM's. It really, REALLY, helps having your own copy.
 
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Justin d

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Yes i see i messaged him and he sent me the evtm now I just need the one for the 99 explorer thanks to you both
 

Jbrown1238

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Well it is that time again. Time for another 10,000 mile update. The truck hit 30,000 miles a week or two ago and is still running very well, (July 10, 2015 through December 1, 2015). There have been a couple small issues but nothing serious enough to leave me sitting on the side of the road.



As mentioned in an earlier post, the clutch slave cylinder went out at 17,000 miles and was replaced. Well, it went out again at 28,000 miles, along with the clutch master cylinder the same day. I first noticed a small amount of fluid dripping under the clutch pedal on my floor mat. I knew right away that it was coming from the clutch master cylinder. Later that same day I noticed a small puddle under the truck directly below the clutch slave cylinder. Sure enough, that was leaking as well.

Both times that the clutch system started leaking I was within 10 miles of home. That was just coincidence, it very easily could have happened on the other side of the state. Getting home wasn't much of an issue, it just required stopping every 3 miles and topping off the reservoir. I was lucky and noticed the leak before the system had lost pressure. Leaking isn't a problem; running out of fluid and losing pedal pressure is the problem. When that happens it's a tow truck job or a pretty big pain in the a$$ repair on the side of the road!

Because I have had to deal with this issue twice now I decided that I should first increase the amount of fluid in the system. This may not solve future issues but will give me a little more warning and wiggle room when first discovering the problem and also in getting home while dealing with the issue. My solution was to have a clutch fluid reservoir fabricated that would hold up to 8 oz. of Dot 3 fluid. The OE reservoir holds about three table spoons!









The one above is the 5oz. version. I had mine extended slightly to hold a full 8oz.





The leaking clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder were both replaced with new pieces. Replaced at no charge, great warranty, not so great quality!

I think the problem with the parts failure is the junk aftermarket cheep Chinese parts that are currently being sold at most of the retail parts stores. I have had more problems with AC components, hydraulic components, starters, etc. recently than ever before. It the problem persists I will probably go back to purchasing OE Manufacturer parts from Ford Motor Company.

Problem number two, AC cycling switch! After switching out several (6) aftermarket switches and several (3) accumulators because of a slow refrigerant leak, I went ahead and installed a new factory Ford cycling switch. Problem solved. No more leak! Another junk part problem.

Problem number three, Starter! Brand new starter lasted five months. Granted, I do start my truck about 40 times per day, but it should still last longer than five months. Replaced at no charge, great warranty, not so great quality!

Problem number four, welded exhaust hangers! Because of vibration the weaken welded metal hangers are splitting at the bend. This has happened twice now. I am going back to clamped hangers at the tail pipe. These can be replaced quickly and easily at home if needed and won't require a repair shop to do any welding. The tail pipe hangers are hidden and the clamps can be turned upside down so they don't show at all.

Here are a few more windshield photos of the Ranger's travels through old rural Florida.

Heading home from West Palm Beach I passed Lion Country Safari. I visited this place back in 1970 as a child and would like to return some day for another drive through. Good to know it is still there.



Cutting through the sugar cane fields of South Florida. Tall cane before it is cut.



After it is cut before the ground is scorched.


Scorched earth!



It goes on for miles long after the curvature of the earth rolls over the horizon.





Finishing out the drive home with a little old school rock!





See you all around 50,000 miles for another update!
 

Jbrown1238

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I have been working on a few small projects while I prepare the truck for the NMRA car show that is coming up soon in Bradenton. I was trying to wait until I hit 50,000 miles but decided to post an update a couple weeks early as things are going to get busy here soon. The truck will roll over 47,000 miles in a couple days. No mechanical issues since our last visit, everything is holding up well and still performing as expected.

One of the projects I just finished is the modified Passenger side Air Bag switch cover. The cover stuck out in front of my gauge pod and created an obstruction right in the sight line of the oil pressure gauge.



I decided to cut the protruding section out of the removable switch cover and replace it with a flat panel.





I picked up a used glove box door from a salvage Ranger. This panel had the same contour as the switch cover. After matching up the two pieces I outlined a section to cut as a replacement panel for the switch cover.





After a little work with the file the two pieces were fit together.



Then some adhesive and a little plastic filler was used to help conceal the seams.



I refrigerated some modeling clay that had been pressed on to the glove box door to “borrow” the texture of the panel. After being refrigerated for a short time the modeling clay was used as a “rubber stamp” in the fresh paint to help hide the seams a little more.



Once the paint had dried the new panel was snapped into place. Now the oil pressure gauge can be seen from the driver’s seated position and the hole in the dash is covered with an OE style trim panel.



I am also in the process of switching out all the exterior lights for LEDS to try and give the truck a more modern look. The Head Lights and Fog Lights were easy and didn’t really require any modification. However the tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals will require a little bit of custom wiring in order to work properly.



I also decided that the U-Haul trailer situation had to change. Although the U-Haul program worked very well for the past few years I really wanted a matching trailer for the truck and one that was more reliable over long distance.









Looking forward to seeing a few of you in Bradenton in two weeks at the NMRA Spring Break Shootout!
 

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So Cool! Nice!
 

deathbypsi

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Whats the trailer for?
 

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