Y Pipe Hell - Please help! Ideas welcomed

Mystralhawk · Nov 28, 2011

Hey guys,

I've been a lurker on here for quite a while. I've hit an issue with the Y pipe on my 2002 3.0 V6 Ranger. I've searched and searched, but haven't really found a solution.

The story:

I had to replace my rear main seal and took off my Y pipe.

I got everything back but when I started the truck back up, I had an exhaust leak where the Y pipe meets the manifold.

I thought the studs were fubared so I ended up cutting them off and using hush studfix brackets (for more info www.the-hush.com). Sadly my problem got even worse. Now the exhaust leak is even worse and the engine throws a code. I have not yet checked the code, but everything is bolted on tight.

Am I missing some sort of gasket/sealant between the Y pipe and the manifolds? The truck has been a non stop problem for 2 months now and I'd really like to get this resolved.

Thanks for everyone's help in advance. I look forward to hearing from everyone.

Earl43P · Nov 28, 2011

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Ford/Ranger/Walker/Exhaust_Pipe_Gasket/2002/XLT/6_Cyl_3-dot-0L/WK31372.html?tlc=Engine+&+Drivetrain&intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Seller

Guessing ypu need a couple of these.

Disclaimer is I do not do exhaust work....

Mystralhawk · Nov 28, 2011

Will the flange fit between the Y pipe and the manifold? When I took the Y pipe off I didn't see any gasket between the two parts.

pcollins · Nov 29, 2011

I had a issue with a leak on my 97 4.0L after i put the tranny back in. I ended up just having to loosen the bolts again and wiggle it around a bit....you may not get so lucky.

locovaca · Nov 29, 2011

I had the same problem with my 93 when I took it apart. There's no gaskets or sealants, you just have to get a real tight connection. I probably unbolted and rebolted a dozen times before I got it. In the end I just went really slow and did a couple of rotations on each bolt then went to the other one.

I'm curious on how you cut the bolts that you needed that Hush product. I know it's a pain but it might be better if you took off your manifolds and fixed them up, either nicely removing the threaded remains of the bolts or drilling through the old rod and using a standard bolt/nut. With it being gasket-less the margin for error seems small.

Mystralhawk · Nov 29, 2011

locovaca said:
I'm curious on how you cut the bolts that you needed that Hush product. I know it's a pain but it might be better if you took off your manifolds and fixed them up, either nicely removing the threaded remains of the bolts or drilling through the old rod and using a standard bolt/nut. With it being gasket-less the margin for error seems small.

I cut the studs as close to flush as possible using a cutting wheel.

I honestly think I'm going to drill new holes so I can use a bolt and nut combo. Sucks cause I feel like I wasted my money.

I will undo the Y pipe and try to reseat the connection. Is there any feel or way to determine if the pipe is seated properly?

Do you know where or what size bolts and nuts that I should use?

locovaca · Nov 29, 2011

Mystralhawk said:
I cut the studs as close to flush as possible using a cutting wheel.

I honestly think I'm going to drill new holes so I can use a bolt and nut combo. Sucks cause I feel like I wasted my money.

I will undo the Y pipe and try to reseat the connection. Is there any feel or way to determine if the pipe is seated properly?

Do you know where or what size bolts and nuts that I should use?

I think the originals were M10 or M12. I tried to get as close as I could, I think I used a 1/2" bit and bolts, Grade 5 I believe.

One trick I read was to take a shop vac, hook it to the exhaust (and seal it), and set it to blow into the exhaust. Then the air would escape out the path of least resistance. My shop vac doesn't do that, so what I did instead was thread my blow-by tester into a cylinder, set that cylinder on the exhaust stroke, and seal off the tail pipe. Then I set my compressed air to a fairly low number, around 10-20 psi, and started to bolt it up. When I couldn't feel any air escaping around the seal I called it good; if it could hold 20 psi then it'd handle anything the engine was exhausting. If you have the tools that's probably the more complete route.

Mystralhawk · Nov 30, 2011

Thanks!

Everyone's help is super appreciated! Hopefully I can resolve this stuff soon!

tx3nc · Dec 5, 2011

The exhaust manifolds to y pipe bolts are 12mm. I think the thead pitch is 1.50. I'm putting mine on now. I chased the threads in the manifolds with a tap and bought new bolts to clamp it on with. We will see how it goes.

Mystralhawk · Dec 5, 2011

Yes, please let me know how it goes and if you run into any issues and have any tips.

acceleracion · Nov 20, 2015

I've been battling this SAME exact problem for years. I have a 94 with the 3.0 motor. Its throwing cel codes for the egr sensor but I dont want to change that sensor without first sealing up this leak, the leaking manifold/ypipe flange is the one with the egr pipe coming off of it.

whenever the egr opens, the noise changes and the truck gets SUUUUUUPER HEAVY/slow.

If anyone has solved this please post up how you were able to get it to seal. I cant buy the pipe anywhere. I was debating buying aftermarket headers and y pipe but i've been reading they dont fit properly on this truck if I have a transfer case/4x4.

these are the last two major things that I have to fix on it and then it will be pretty perfect.

ab_slack · Nov 20, 2015

For what it is worth, not related to the Y pipe but we had an exhaust leak issue causing similar symptoms.

The manifold on the drivers on our 99 with 3.0L has a unused port on the manifold with a cover plate that only has one screw on one side holding it in place. We thought we had a leak at the manifold or manifold to Y pipe junction. It turned out that the blocking plate, with the single screw didn't maintain pressure on the side opposite the screw and it leaked quite loud and caused similar symptoms.

Probably not it if it started after pulling Y pipe off, but if a noise just starting on its own down there and on the divers side, make sure to eliminate that port as an issue.

acceleracion · Nov 21, 2015

I did head gaskets on this truck I dont remember any other bolt like that on the driver side manifold besides the egr pipe port, I have a 94, but i'll look again thanks for the info.

ab_slack · Nov 21, 2015

Its this port. The red circle shows the area where the leak was occurring. The cover plate for that port just had the one bolt a little to the left and down in the image.

This was a 99 and yours may not have this, and of course from other responses it does sound like the leak at the junction with the Y pipe could be it. Just mentioning since we thought it was at that junction at first.

Trying to seal that was a pain. All fixes tended to work for awhile. High temp silicone, high temp gasket (although perhaps not quite enough) all eventually would fail.

Eventually used, not JB Weld but some manifold repair product after grinding away to clean metal inside the port, inside the port cover, outside the cover and all around the edge of the cover. With the repair material on the inside, on the seat and around the perimeter it has held for about 6 months now and remains like a rock.

Y Pipe Hell - Please help! Ideas welcomed

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