1990 4x4 Ranger 2.9L to 5.0L

Ladies and Gentlemen,
I figured it was about time, after months of research, that I post what my plans are. I've scavenged what I believe to be just about every thread started out there and I have what I believe to be a pretty solid plan for my first V8 swap. Now, I've been reading threads and forums and looking at pictures for months and months now so I do hope that through all the information I've gathered, that all, or atleast a very large chunk of it is correct and I didn't misread something. I am trying to do all the research before hand, that way when I get home in a couple months, I am able to do this swap within a week because I would love to be able to tear up some dirt roads with no struggle (seeing as I have a 2.9L pushing 33's.....). So, without further ado, I will list my current specs and list the swap I plan on doing. Please correct me where I am wrong or where you may have tried to do it yourself and found an easier/cheaper/better way and I will adjust my plans accordingly.

Current Specs:
1990 Ford Ranger
2.9L V6 SLOW
Manual Transmission (Mazda M50D-R1)
4x4 BW 1350 Electric Transfer Case
Crew Cab 125" wheel base
4.0L Explorer Radiator w/ electric fan
4in suspension lift (unkown brand)
3 in body lift
33's with spare chilling in the bed
1 piece rear drive shaft swap from 2 piece
Unknown Axle sizes (if I remember correctly, rear had drum brakes, and forward was 28 spline, so dana 28? and 7.5"?)
Other stuff but not quite pertaining to a V8 swap


Plans:
5.0L EFI Engine from 1996-7 Explorer (probably a jy find hopefully)
Eng mounts 4.0L Ranger w/ 1/4 steel plate (anyone in contact with a person who knows how to make these with correct measurements (and the ability to sit engine level)? Would figure that is easier since I don't quite have the equipment to do so easily; will pay)
Engine wiring harness from 5.0L Manual vehicle (F150 most likely)
ECM from any 5.0L manual vehicle (F150 most likely; without pats <1998)
Oil Filter Relocator Kit (New Summit)
Oil Filter Stud for FL1A Filter (jy find off any 302)
Oil Pan 1975-91 F150 or Econoline (oreillys; aiming for the rear sump style because the dual sump doesn't make sense to me; unless of course people have tried the rear sump with the TTB and it didn't fit with stock mounts/plate; let me know please)
Oil Pump Screen Assembly 1975-91 F150 or Econoline (oreillys; will go with oil pan)
Oil Dip Stick (keep original off of truck I find it in/whatever goes with oil pan)
Exhaust Manifolds 1990 F150 (oreillys)
Y-pipe 1990 F150 or one of the same style (jy find)
Custom Single Exhaust 2.5" diameter w/ Flowmaster Super 40 Muffler
Tranmission M50D-R2 from 1997+ 4.2L Ford (jy find; will drill out mounting holes to 7/16")
Transmission mount will need to be modified but can use stock
Flywheel 164t (oreillys: NFW1128)
Clutch Set 1990 5.0 F150 (oreillys: K0064-05)
Clutch Slave Cylinder (amazon: Dorman CS37897; the hydraulic line from MC should attach directly to this)
Transfer case 1973-79 NP205 Ford fullsize (jy find)
Transfer case mount same as above (jy find)
Rear Axle 1995+ Explorer 8.8 w/ 3.73 LS, 4.10 LS, or 4.56 LS
Front Axle 1991-4 Explorer or Ranger Dana 35 w/ same ratio
Front D/S late 80's F150
Rear D/S original

If I am able to keep the cost down (would like to keep it to under a 2 grand build), then I'll grab a set of Hedman 88400 Headers. That is all the info I have collected. As you can see, there are still some unknowns and I wish I could go to the jy and poke around a little. Would definitely help confirm my data but this will suffice.
I appreciate all the help to come.

That 1356 TC is a very tight fit--I tried it on mine and went to the NP205. It can be done, but will require some frame adjustment or angling the driveline laterally. Good news is you can lift the 1356 yourself--the NP205 weighs 135 pounds!

Does the np205 fit between the frame rails a lot easier?

The NP205 tucks right in there with no frame mods.



The mount from a 1978 F-150 will even work with some modification.

Thank you for the pictures. And thank you for chiming in. I took yesterday and today to read your build thread. Very informative stuff on there. With the NP205, what all did you have to modify? I saw you had to get the forward drive shaft cut and a different forward yoke for the NP205. But what about the rear driveshaft? What vehicles did you get both driveshafts from? Also, do you have a ballpark number for how much the shop charged to get the driveshaft chopped/lengthened?

No problem--just trying to save some grief for anyone doing this swap. The front driveshaft is the original Ranger unit. I had to buy the CV 32 spline yoke for a 1310 ujoint for a NP205 from Denny's Driveshaft for $55 and it cost $75 to get the shaft shortened in Austin, TX.

The rear driveshaft is from a 2001 Ranger and is a direct fit replacement for the 2 piece shaft that was there previously. I believe there is a writeup in the Technical Articles about that swap. You have to trim the skid plate for the fuel tank, but it is an easy job.

That is fantastic to hear about the rear driveshaft. I did that swap shortly after getting my truck because one of the u-joints were already falling apart and made an odd clicking noise while driving. Luckily discovered that issue before making a 400 mile trip back home. I was expecting quite a bit for a driveshaft trim but $150 for the whole thing isn't too bad. Did you try to play with any of the different length driveshafts off an F150 or Explorer or know anyone who has? Or since the NP205 was used in many different scenarios, I wonder what other driveshafts would work. Definitely would be a guessing game and one I may look into since it is only the front driveshaft. Just trying to find ways to keep my budget down. I mean a temporary 2wd truck isn't too bad right? Haha.

Truck intake might not fit without body lift

Manual transmission has a flywheel, not flex plate, and you would need one from a 80s-90s truck with a 5.0. and since its out, do it once and put in a new clutch assembly

Discovered some more builds that were close to mine. According to "Fant", he had good luck with using a late 80's F150 front drive shaft so I will pick one of those up while I am in the yard. And thank you about the clutch info. Off the top of my head, I don't quite remember how it is set up. I will have to look that up and study it for a little to get it into my head. And I already have a 3 in body lift which I plan on keeping. Thanks for your help.

Okay so just completed my swap main issues i came across was the transfer case i enedup getting the smaller np208 fit with a little fame mod. another main issue was that a engine wiring harness from an f150 will not directly plug into the cab connection of a ranger complete wiring harness rewire is necessary. a carburetor is a good option.