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- Sep 8, 2017
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- Vehicle Year
- 1996
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Manual
Posted this to another forum a few weeks ago that ended up getting flagged by browser as security risk and didn't get much useful response.
I was pleased to find super obvious cause of fuel leak when filling torn filler neck at connection to tank.
And upon removing the fuel pump found the float was...not there...
The clip that holds it on still is, so...went into the tank with mirror/light, even buried one arm in fuel to touch every corner of tank, couldn't find the old one. Oh well. Forget to get a lock ring, Fords always rust them to dust, picked it up from the local auto parts store ($21 is rape...), and job done, started the truck right up and fuel gauge works appropriately now.
so #3 is really my only unresolved question. shocks are junk. I was told to inspect the leaf spring shackles, which I did - it appears this truck has had all except for the passenger side front one replaced, I could not tell how bad it was except for massive surface rust (3/8" thick pieces falling off) from underneath. Once I had the bed off, you could clearly see daylight rust holes through parts. I cut off the 4 welded rivets that hold it onto the frame and ordered a replacement and bolts. What I would call the rear shackle drop brackets were rusted to the point taking the bolts out of them twisted them and snapped them in half...scary to think the speeds I was driving this thing home with them like that...brake lines have already been done. leaf spring bushings are shot. exhaust is fine. fuel lines and electrical appear and function fine. no visible defects in rear driveline/axle. rear brakes are 4/32. at the rate drums go, those could probably go another 192K, useless shit.
the truck sits 1 to 1 1/2" higher on the passenger side from known frame points to the ground as measured with an empty bed (and then again with bed removed). removing the shocks did not seem to alter the measurements any (nor did I expect it to). how can I measure the leaf springs to determine if it is a leaf spring issue or the actual frame of the truck is bent?
while I have all this apart, what should I be using to prevent further rust on the frame sections and the underside of the bed? I have a bed armor coating to put inside the bed but this specifically says it is not a water repellent?
lots of pics:
http://s688.photobucket.com/user/cjr2003firefly2/library/1997 Ford Ranger?sort=3&page=1
lastly, I believe my parking brake cable routing is incorrect (though working) based on the random return spring to frame and the shock rubbing through the passenger side parking brake cable, pics below. does anyone know of a reliable routing diagram and possibly the parts I'm missing to make this right?
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if you need the photobucket fix extensions they are HERE
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173757&highlight=photobucket
So yesterday I removed the bed as I had an extra helper...yes it can be lifted with two people quite easily. I removed the mud flaps (one 13mm nut/bolt each side), the front and rear inner fender guards (not sure if necessary), the three 7mm bolts that hold the filler neck on, the two support straps that hold the front of the wheel well to the frame (similar to the mud flap bracket), and the taillights - I later figured out that you don't need to remove the tail lights, simply unhook the large electrical connector on the driver side underneath approximately 12" inboard of the left tail lamp (just raise the bed up a tiny bit and you'll see it. I removed the tail gate for weight. The bed bolts did not fight me too bad, but I have also spent the past few days soaking them from top and bottom with PB blaster and going at them with impact slowly knocking all the rust loose - I ordered a T55 torx in 1/2" drive off of the internet and that seemed to be the key not loosing torque through adapters.
I was pleased to find super obvious cause of fuel leak when filling torn filler neck at connection to tank.
And upon removing the fuel pump found the float was...not there...
The clip that holds it on still is, so...went into the tank with mirror/light, even buried one arm in fuel to touch every corner of tank, couldn't find the old one. Oh well. Forget to get a lock ring, Fords always rust them to dust, picked it up from the local auto parts store ($21 is rape...), and job done, started the truck right up and fuel gauge works appropriately now.so #3 is really my only unresolved question. shocks are junk. I was told to inspect the leaf spring shackles, which I did - it appears this truck has had all except for the passenger side front one replaced, I could not tell how bad it was except for massive surface rust (3/8" thick pieces falling off) from underneath. Once I had the bed off, you could clearly see daylight rust holes through parts. I cut off the 4 welded rivets that hold it onto the frame and ordered a replacement and bolts. What I would call the rear shackle drop brackets were rusted to the point taking the bolts out of them twisted them and snapped them in half...scary to think the speeds I was driving this thing home with them like that...brake lines have already been done. leaf spring bushings are shot. exhaust is fine. fuel lines and electrical appear and function fine. no visible defects in rear driveline/axle. rear brakes are 4/32. at the rate drums go, those could probably go another 192K, useless shit.
the truck sits 1 to 1 1/2" higher on the passenger side from known frame points to the ground as measured with an empty bed (and then again with bed removed). removing the shocks did not seem to alter the measurements any (nor did I expect it to). how can I measure the leaf springs to determine if it is a leaf spring issue or the actual frame of the truck is bent?
while I have all this apart, what should I be using to prevent further rust on the frame sections and the underside of the bed? I have a bed armor coating to put inside the bed but this specifically says it is not a water repellent?
lots of pics:
http://s688.photobucket.com/user/cjr2003firefly2/library/1997 Ford Ranger?sort=3&page=1
lastly, I believe my parking brake cable routing is incorrect (though working) based on the random return spring to frame and the shock rubbing through the passenger side parking brake cable, pics below. does anyone know of a reliable routing diagram and possibly the parts I'm missing to make this right?
if you need the photobucket fix extensions they are HERE
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173757&highlight=photobucket
