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Question about carbed 302/351


Uhlenhopp09

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I've searched and searched with no avail so finally I'm posting. What makes swapping a carbed motor harder than doing an explorer swap. My truck is a 99 XLT 2wd base model with a 2.5, if that matters/helps. Manual windows, locks and transmission. The truck does have the 8.8 with an open diff in it. I was thinking of doing this swap but trying to find info on why the carb swap is so hard. I guess what I'm asking is if I remove the ECM does that **** up the parking lights, tail lights and wipers? Or anything else that I could be forgetting about. What I had thought of was getting an early 90's F150 that had a 5.0 and 5 speed manual transmission as that had the M50D-R2 correct? Any light shed on this as to why it's more of a pain in the ass than the EFI setup. And before I hear about more power, reliability, gas mileage, it's just a toy.
Thanks you guys.
 


RangerFabWorks

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you will have to disable pats. Completely remove all the ecu and wiring. Seperate it from the body harness. Most of your dash gauges won't work because they rely on the ecu for there readings. The intake fuel pump will need to be removed and either a low pressure inline one plumbed in or a mechanical fuel pump. Depending on where you live you will never pass emissions. Considering how easy the wiring is on a fuel injected. And the reliability of the fuel injection. Makes the swap a no brainier

Now onto the m5r2. The best trannys to use are the 97 and up. Mainly because the shift plate on the 96 and older puts the shifter even further forward then the m5r1 the ranger would have came with. Basically puts the shifter right under the dash. Also another thing worth noting is you will have to extend the shift rod going from the pedal to the master cylinder. The f150 has a longer pedal travel then the ranger. This is coming from personal experience as I use a 96 m5r2 in my 90 ranger build.
 

Uhlenhopp09

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So what's it take to disable pats and what happens when it is disabled? And can't I just run wires from motor to the stock gauges to get them to work? There's gotta be an analog to digital somewhere
 
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RangerFabWorks

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So what's it take to disable pats and what happens when it is disabled? And can't I just run wires from motor to the stock gauges to get them to work? There's gotta be an analog to digital somewhere
you can wire around the ignition switch to get the power to the starter solenoid. and with the ecu gone that should take care of the pats. and your temp gauge and your alternator gauge will not work without the ecu. so i suggest putting aftermarket gauges in. there more accurate anyway, stock gauges are nothing more than idiot lights. bare minimum readings will send the gauge to the middle.

one thing i should point out. if you disable pats, your insurance has the right to deny your claim if your truck was ever stolen. just a heads up
 

RonD

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'99 2.5l computer won't have PATS

But you won't need the computer in any case if using a carb and manual transmission.
Yes, for safety reasons you should have a clutch pedal switch, so clutch pedal needs to be down for power to pass to starter solenoid's "S" connection.

You also won't be able to pass any SMOG testing if that is an issue in your area.

I don't think '99 used computer for dashboard gauges, but not sure.
You will need to ground fuel pump relay and add a pressure regulator on the fuel line in the engine compartment, Holly has them.
You can run the fuel pump relay ground from the oil pressure switch(with diode) for safety reasons, this will keep fuel pump from running unless there is oil pressure, engine will start with fuel in float bowl then fuel pump will come on, but if engine should stop running, like accident or roll over, then electric fuel pump will be turned off so less chance of fire, inertia switch is there for that reason, but always good to have backup :).

Yes the '90 M5OD-R2 trans will have the shifter farther forward but you can make a custom shift arm for that location, I have also read you can swap the shift plate from a '97-'05 M5OD-R2 to the earlier models to get shifter closer to Ranger floor plate, but never done it myself
 

Uhlenhopp09

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So is there a thread somewhere that I can read about a carb swap process or does anyone have some good tips to keep in mind? Any advice other than hearing about how it's pointless to put a carb on and I should do efi?
 

prymetime1

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I think Ron d just hit it pretty good on the over riding the stock ish. About to be doing a 94 with a carb'd 347 n c4. I'll be doing what Ron mentioned and wiring in what's needed. U can always use a aftermarket wiring set up. Many companies have em. I may take this route if I can't make what I have work. I'll be doing my swap in a week or so, I'll post updates on how I wire it all up.
 

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so.

basically it can be construed as a, what is the difference between a carb and efi application?

or is it specifically why is it supposedly more difficult to do a carb setup in a 99 ranger?.?.


these questions are the answers your asking for??.


theres generational specifics here that are definite.

25 years ago guys would have given up a toe and pinky finger to have a plug and play v8 swap in a ford ranger.....especially an efi setup if it were to be a daily driver.....in your case its planned to be a toy...as its said.


your case is one of the lucky plug and play swaps.

you would think only an idiot would put a carb setup in such a chassis. because it is in fact, more difficult.


of course...."difficult" is a relative word here. cooling, fuel system, and actual trans and engine installations can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be.

then again... if you have to ask how to make a carb application go in anything, you got more learning to do.

the questions about lighting being affected from pcm removal are valid concerns to be sure, but leaving it(your oem wiring system) all in place and modding the fuel supply will work just fine here. very very low level of difficulty in that light.....its just a toy after all right??. no need for a build thread or instructions for that as far as i can figure. whats there to do?



on any swap situation having the powertrain operational outside a chassis is ideal and is huge in pointing out potentials and monstrous in clarifying details.
 

gsp

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bobbywalter

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A carb motor swap is MUCH easier to do..
in a 93....maybe. depends on what your working with, and what your capacities are. with that, if your asking...thats one end of the spectrum answered.


in a 99....no so fast. plug n play is one end....modifying the fuel system adds work.
 

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Ford78

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I'm in the process right now, putting a 351 in my 99. Their are a lot of little things that do add up. I took out all the factory Gage's and put in after market. Swapped in a fuel cell and many other things if u want to check out my build.
 

prymetime1

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Sweet heads up 78, thanks...I'll I've checked it out, real nice build!
 

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