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No second gear after valve body gasket replacement


CaptainRanger

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1999 XLT SOHC 4X4 -Automatic

Hey guys, first off...never take your ranger to a mechanic in Alabama. I moved here a year ago, and every dealership and shop has damaged my,truck in some way. From forgetting to replace to fluids after a tune up, to diagnosing a bad fuel injector as needing a new transmiasion, to forgetting to ground the engine during a replacement and frying $4k in audio equipment. These people are idiots. That said, I'm trying to work on it myself after the engine thing 3 mobths ago. In that time ive replaced both collant sensors, water pump, radiator, and now valve body gaskets

First, I was getting some hesitation from 1st to 2nd that required letting off the throttle to manage. And when cruising through my neighborhood it had trouble deciding if it wanted 1st or 2nd. Reading here lead me to the valve body gaskets. I was sold the wrong ones and had to have it towed while out of town. Returned to find theyd lost the keys and hadnt done a thing..but owed em for the tow (year right). So had it rekeyed (swoon) I walked 8 miles and bought right gaskets AGAIN, replaced them, but now dont have 2nd at all it seems. Have to get the rpms up to 2k rpm and let off, then accelerate again when I feel it shift at around 1k rpm. After a test run, I do get limp mode with the flashing OD OFF light, which on occasion actually makes it shift fine (or so it feels), if weak on acceleration. Resetting hasnt helped.

Opon further inspection....I don't have the vaccum globe that I think I should, the 4x4 solenoid that's also under the aitbox was disconnected as were most of the lines , the vaccum line the runs from under the throttle body to the module in front of the fuse box (where brake lines connect) were rotted and sucked flat (replaced that). And...I don't appear to have an EGR.....isn't that what connects below where the snorkle attaches to the intake, the runs to the back of the engine? The intake side is just an open hole, and the engine side is plugged....and I found a rectangular piece of plastic resting between the heads -part number references the erg. And the electrical connection for the throttle body position sensor has 2 other plugs in its grouping that are not connected and just hanging there...

I don't even know where to start...anybody have a photo of the lines under the airbox? And can any of my observations account for the shift issue? My grandfather bought me this truck nearly new when I was 15 and its been my,only vehicle since (I'm 35 now). To say I love this truck is an understatement. I love it enough to have spent $10,000 in the past year keeping it running when I could have bought 3 Rangers with that. Any help or insight is appreciated, and ill get the codes from the OD if I have to, just scared to make things worse by driving it.
 


CaptainRanger

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Upon finding a good diagram, those empty electrical connections go to the EGR valve position sensor, and the EGR solenoid. Neither is the UFO looking thing.
 

CaptainRanger

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Anybody? I know my initial post was a novel....was hopibg to avoid the usual questions to be specific and to establish history.
 

sheltonfilms

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Do you have a 5r55e right? If so adjust your OD band.

Where in Alabama? I live in Hoover/Bham.


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CaptainRanger

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Do you have a 5r55e right? If so adjust your OD band.

Where in Alabama? I live in Hoover/Bham.


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Mobile. Sorry for delay, I'm learning my way around the site. I was thinking adjust the bands....but wasnt sure. And hadnt yet found the procedure .I recall it being tighten all the way and then back off so many turns. Took to shop and I had a code from the #2 sensor, another from the B sensor and 3rd gear ratio. I'm guessing these to by torque converter issues, perhaps? Maybe just band, as you said?

And now, the fuel pressure just shot sky high and I cant figure out why. There's even oil dampening the engine bay (drivers side under battery area) near the oil pressure sensor. Thoughts?
 

CaptainRanger

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Yeah. 5r55e
 

CaptainRanger

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Do you have a 5r55e right? If so adjust your OD band.

Where in Alabama? I live in Hoover/Bham.


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Every article I see on doing this is different, or the comment section is full of rebuttles. Far as I can tell...you back the locking nut off, tighten the adjusting screw to 70 inch pounds...then back in again 2 turns, then lock the nut down on it. That sound right?
 

sheltonfilms

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Every article I see on doing this is different, or the comment section is full of rebuttles. Far as I can tell...you back the locking nut off, tighten the adjusting screw to 70 inch pounds...then back in again 2 turns, then lock the nut down on it. That sound right?


Who/where said 70 inch lbs?

It should be 10 ft-lbs which translates to 120 inch lbs. Need a 1/4” drive torque wrench for this.

Everything else sounds right.


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sheltonfilms

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Oh and btw you don’t back the stud in, you back it out.

If you don’t follow the procedure correctly you can end up with the band applying at all times (permanent overdrive). If this happens and you turn OD off it will destroy your coast clutch, od drum, and od planetary. Trust me I know from experience.


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