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Motorcraft 5W-20


Trollbait

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i thought the light weight was for when its cold, so its easier to start, than thickens when it reaches operating temp? i remember my owners manual has a chart, it recommends 5w30 for where i live (-20 to 90deg)(not exact, i cant remember) and 10w30 and so on, in warmer climates. do they not apply this anymore? i know toyota, you can run 0w20, warmer you can run 5w20.
Actually, liquids get thinner when heated up. The multi-viscosity motor oils contain additives that keep it from thinning out too much, but it's still thinner at operating temp than at cold.

Something to keep in mind, the Xw-XX on a bottle of oil is just a labeling system. Those numbers don't equate directly to any actual measured viscosity of the oil.

You can find the actual tested viscosity at the bottom of these pages.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-30.asp
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_5W-20.asp
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-20_Advanced_Fuel_Economy.asp
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-30_Advanced_Fuel_Economy.asp

The operating temp viscosities of the 30s are 11cSt (centistokes, water is around 1 at room temp), and the 20s are near 9cSt.
Now the cold tested viscosities are close between the 0 and 5, but differ between the 20 and 30. The 20s are in the high 40s for cSt, and the 30s are in the low 60s.
The cold test in only cold in relation to the hot test though. It's done at 104F. So the difference between 0 and 5 will likely grow the colder it gets.

To sum up. Light weight motor oil is thicker than water. In a warmed up engine, the 30s and 20s are close. While warming up, the 20 is noticeably thinner than the 30, which will allow it to be pumped through the system easier, and with less time through the filter bypass valve. The difference between 5 and 0 likely only comes into effect when it is truly cold out at start up. The 0s are only available as synthetics, so they have that advantage.
 


bottledgt

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so, if it sells more , then its better? ive never confirmed any falures of them, but i have cut them all apart and fram looks like ass inside compared to others
 

hihoslvr

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Thank you for helping make my point. shady
God forgive me for prolonging this thread, but Shady... I thought your whole point has been that millions of people have used Fram filters without trouble? Which may true, however the link listed above is yet another person who will never use Frams again...WTF? How does that help your point?
 

BrokeRecord

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Filters, oil, politics, and but* holes! everyone has one and think it's the best! I use Motocraft, oil, filters, and vote Republican.
I do remember the deal with the 351 cleveland blowing filters off.(69-70) It seems that on cold crank up, full oil pressure plus the thick cold oil put tremendous pressure straight thru the filter and if there was anything weak, it would blow the crimped seams open. It probably didn't help that lots of people thought it wise to use 50w Racing oil on the street.
Also the Lincoln LS from 2002 requires 5w20,as per my owner's manuel.:icon_pepsi:
 

california c

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FWIW—members of my family and I have used Frantz TP filters since the mid-sixties with nary a problem. I still adhere to a 2-3000 mile oil change interval because of a concern about the additive "package," but the oil comes out every bit as clean as it went in. In my opinion, Frantz filters work spectacularly well. Keep in mind, they're only a bypass filter.
 

shadetree

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God forgive me for prolonging this thread, but Shady... I thought your whole point has been that millions of people have used Fram filters without trouble? Which may true, however the link listed above is yet another person who will never use Frams again...WTF? How does that help your point?
No. My point, as I stated is, that out of all the millions of filters sold there has not been any concrete scientific evidence by any study that Fram is a bad filter.

If the filter is as bad as everyone proclaims, and was causing the problems claimed, there would be some evidence of this on a large scale.

Most claims pointing to the filter as a cause of whatever problem is heresay, just like the one posted by almostclueless. No solid evidence that the filter was the cause of the problem.

Not to say there haven't been problems. Fram has had its share. This happens to any mass produced product, especially on the scale produced by Fram. But the problems were corrected.

Unless I am positively sure that a product is bad, and I can back up the claim with facts, I am not going to tell someone else not to use it. Just because you think you had a problem doesn't mean I will.

My point, and many others, of having used the filter without problems is just as valid as those who claim to have had problems. I will also bet the numbers are on the side of satisfied users of the filter as those on the down side.

This especially true when dealing with do-it-yourselfers, which seem to me to be where the majority of complaints come from. There is no way of knowing the circumstances concerning what actually happened for the filter to get the blame.

Some post just to get on the "hate Fram" bandwagon. How can you tell the difference? You can't, you just have to go with what you know. If you have had good service from a product, such as myself, then continue on. If you have not had good service, or have suspicions, then don't use the product. But, if you want to tell me not to use the product because you had problems with it, you had better have some hard facts to back up your claim. shady
 
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