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Non-Ranger Axles All other axles. Ford 9-inch, Dana 44, Dana 60, etc.

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Old 05-03-2018, 09:53 AM   #21
evanesce69
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Bobby-

I had looked at the RCV shafts... if I have issues with these in the future that is the way I will go. I haven't done a lot of high travel situations so I stuck with the D50 inner stub and slip yoke. I did have the right side inner shaft made with extra spline length just in case... so the trans yoke is always an easy option. I didn't want to modify anything major like the drop brackets... so I chose to shorten the inner right had side... it was only $210... the rest was just a splurge because I have to get a new outter stub anyway... at that point it seemd dumb to "cheap out" on ujoints... Then I discovered the full circle clips for those CTM joints wouldn't work on a stock axleshaft.... so I had the left inner shaft made as well.

yeah... it's kinda like this... "Hey man, I'm gonna make this strong... it's only a few hundred bucks..." So I get into it and say well I've already done this so I have to do this now... and then i start thinking damn this is expensive... but I cant stop now! So I now have all alloy shafts and expensive ujoints... It was vicious cycle. As for your guess of $1300, it isn't that far off, a little lower but not by much.

I'm definitely gonna have to do something with the shocks though... it sure isn't fun pumping up the brakes every time I have to make a tight turn... I'm also gonna do something with the radius arms... with breaking in the front gears I removed the rear driveshaft and have been driving the last day or so on the front.... Alot of slop in there plus the clutch in the Auburn elocker is pretty tight... makes for some squirrelly driving. I'm thinking of moving the rear mounts out to make them parallel to the direction of movement or simply have longer radius arms made an move the mounts back a foot or so and add hemi joints... That'll reduce the angel a bit.

I've also looked at shock hoops and coilovers but don't have any experience with them. Why do you not recommend them for a daily driver... other than on a cost vs usage/performance basis?

ultimately I want to be able to lock the front in and be able to pull straight line all 4 tire with no issues... I'm building a 2.3 turbo stroker in the future and have gone through the drivetrain first... made no sense to me to put a lot of power under the hood on the stock parts... i'd break stuff the first time out...

most importantly, i REALLY appreciate your input on all this... and thanks for the compliments!!! By no means is any one person right on everything... I accept the constructive criticism openly. It helps to make a more informed decision.
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5.13's, ECTED front, TruTrac rear
P285/70/17 Mud Claws, Black Rock 17x9

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Old 05-18-2018, 02:27 AM   #22
bobbywalter
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ahhhh yes...the laws of incrementalism. hindsight usually is a kick in the berries...

i hope your setup is failure free, and unless your getting stupid it sure as hell looks as heavy duty one can get conventionally. i would wager your in great shape with this setup.












if you were using a oem readily available coilover, or did not mind purchasing and carrying a spare unit, coilovers are good and usually the best option performance wise.


i drive a ridiculous amount of miles and sometimes cross the country to go to work. so using parts that are readily available is my preference.


the later generations of builder parts and heim style joints have also come a long way and can work for many for steering and suspensions....but iprefer easily sourced parts.


if you use it....you will break it if your having fun at the edge..


hard to have fun unless your exploring limits.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:59 PM   #23
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Took her to the beach over the weekend... Made over $200 pulling people out of the sand, donation only of course (cash, beer, soda, water, pizza, links...). Was axle deep in loose sand pulling cars, 2wd trucks, SUV's, broke 4x4 trucks... front axle spun both tires consistently even without the differential locked.... that is one tight limited slip in there (cone type) The true trac ran great too.

I walked through idling where other were blasting through and getting stuck, forward, reverse, turning around... it didn't matter... was like being on pavement

It was great!!!

I do need traction bars on the rear though... there were a few instance of wheel hope in reverse... I surely don't want to break the rear driveshaft because of bad angles on the ujoint.

I also need to upgrade my cooling and get a tighter clutch as well. Think I'm going to get a set of 35x12.5R17 Firestone Destinations... or the Mud Claws that I currently have... but 35's
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1993 Ford Ranger XL Super Cab 4x4, 6" SkyJacker
3.0L V6, O ringed, copper head gaskets, ARP studs, Camcraft cam, JBA headers
5.13's, ECTED front, TruTrac rear
P285/70/17 Mud Claws, Black Rock 17x9

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