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V8 Build Thread: 5.0 for 3.slow


shr3dd3r 09

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3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
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4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
The swap is finally underway!

Donor Vehicle:

2000 Mercury Mountaineer
5.0L
AWD


My Ranger:

2000
3.0L, Manual
4X4
Regular Cab


Goal of Swap:

Instead of reusing the Mountaineer's transmission and transfer case, I am swapping in an M5ODR-2 and BW4406 from a 2000 F-150. If the 4406 doesn't fit under my regular cab, I will search for an np205 or 208.

Parts used so far:

Mountaineer engine and all accessories
M5ODR-2 from 2000 F-150
Flywheel, block plate, and clutch kit for 1996 F-150 5.0L
BW4406 from 2000 F-150

Notes:

Everything has been quite straightforward so far. I actually used the 3.0L mounts. They are identical to the mountaineer's except one of the bolts is 1 inch to one side. So all I did was drill another hole and it sits in there perfectly. I'll take pictures of this later if anyone needs explanation.

The Vehicles:


 


shr3dd3r 09

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Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Under hood shot of Mountaineer:
 

shr3dd3r 09

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4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Didn't run into anything out of the blue while removing the engine. It was frustrating trying to get the exhaust out of the way, but no surprises there. Here's the engine sitting in the garage.



I know the engine is filthy. I'll get it cleaned up sometime in the near future. Probably after I get it running though.

 

shr3dd3r 09

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4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
The engine ran great in the Mountaineer. It's got a lot of miles on it but it runs smoothly. Hopefully that doesn't change any time soon, especially after putting the money into the swap.

Next the ranger's drive train was removed. Again no surprises here. Just lots of rusty bolts and annoying exhaust issues.

3.0 and tranny removed:
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Ford
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3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
I mentioned in my first post that I reused the 3.0L mounts. The passenger side mount is identical to the mountaineer's passenger side mount. But the driver side bolts are staggered differently.

So on the engine mounting plate we drilled another hole so that it would still sit down over the bolt. The hole was drilled exactly 1 inch farther toward the driver side frame rail. I have no picture of this, but I can take one if anyone is interested.

No engine:
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Ford
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3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
No modifications to the firewall or anything have been necessary yet. So far the engine is sitting in the truck but nothing is hooked up. The motor mount nuts are only finger tightened. Tomorrow I'll get some more work done and keep you updated. I would be more descriptive, but I have yet to make any mods other than the driver side motor mount. Everything else has been plug and play and elbow grease.

Engine in:


 

Tominator

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Nice work! Keep us updated please.:D
 

doorgunner

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Looking good.....yours is plugnplay......mine was cutnweld..... :icon_rofl:
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Ford
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3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
I didn't get as much done today as I would have liked to, but still progress is progress. I put the brackets back on the front of the engine for the accessories, but then I decided I'd go ahead and try to make everything else fit before I start hooking things up in the engine bay.

So all I really got done was getting the m5odr-2 mounted. It went in relatively smoothly. the body seam had to be folded back slightly, and this would have been easier had I done it before putting the engine in. But still it was no problem for the persuader (hammer).

The stock transmission cross member will work, but it had to be notched in order for the larger tranny to fit. Tomorrow we'll reinforce the crossmember to make up for removing some material from it, and hopefully get the transfer case mounted. It actually looks like the 4406 will fit under there but it will be close. Go figure.

Then I'll need to take some measurements to have my driveshaft resized. I doubt I will be able to keep my front driveshaft, so do you all know which one I could find at a junkyard that will work for this application? If I remember correctly it is one from an F-150 with the 4.6L? Sound right?

Then I'll have to work on tricking the computer into running correctly with the manual instead of auto tranny. I'm an electrical engineering student (graduating in May) and my friend helping me is an EE with many years of experience, so I think we can handle that one.

Here's the m5r2 with the new slave cylinder inserted. Turns out the m5r2 is an inch or two shorter than the m5r1:


Flywheel and new block plate:


Clutch:


More pics/progress tomorrow!
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Got the transfer case and starter bolted on today, but that's it.

And yes, in case you didn't already know, the BW4406 will fit under a regular cab ranger with no clearance issues. Well, there is an electrical plug that comes up under the driver's seat that the case got in the way of, and we had quite a time trying to reattach it. But that was only a minor problem.

So the drive train is in now except for front and rear drive shafts. As far as the rear driveshaft goes, I'm not sure what kind of yoke fits on the end of the 4406, so I don't think I can retain my original driveshaft. Does anyone know what I can use or what has been used by others for this swap?

Drive train installed!


Clearance between t-case and gas tank:


Tight fit, but it's in there!


The power steering cooler will have to be moved forward slightly. No picture of this, but we almost crushed my original one while lowering the engine into the truck. It will have to be positioned so that it angles forward in order to clear the oil pan.

Instead of reusing my original transmission cross member we are going to fab one up out of some scrap steel tomorrow. Once that's done we'll take some measurements for the drive shafts and then start hooking things up under the hood. Maybe I'll have it started up tomorrow if I'm lucky.
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Location
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Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Not much work done today. Started making the new crossmember out of some scrap steel. It should end up being sturdier than the stock one. Also measured for the front and rear driveshafts. I removed the power steering cooler and lines from the mountaineer and I will be replacing the ranger's with these tomorrow hopefully. Stay tuned. More pics/progress to come.
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Location
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Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
The transmission cross member is finished and bolted on. It's not pretty (made from scrap steel), but it's thick and probably more sturdy than the stock one. Lowered the truck back down and started hooking things back up in the engine bay. 99% plug and play. I'm waiting to get some decent progress and accumulate some photos before I post any, but I'll get to it soon.

It turns out that the pinouts for my old bw1354 transfer case and the bw4406 (both electric shift. I'd like to reuse my dash switches) are the same, but the plugs don't mate. So I can just cut the old plug off my 1354 and solder it in place of the 4406's connecter, making sure to match the wire colors, and it should work just fine.

There is one pug below the brake master cylinder that will not match up to the mountaineer's battery cable harness. I'm not sure what connector number it is so I am not sure what the pinout is or if it's the same as the one on my old harness. If it is I'll just reuse the old connector by doing some soldering. Anyone know what connector I'm talking about?
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Messages
244
Reaction score
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Location
Huntsville, AL
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Ohh, one thing I forgot to mention was the m5r2 bellhousing bolt holes had to be drilled out slightly to 7/16" in order to mount to the engine with the bolts from the mountaineer's original transmission. Most of you probably already knew that.
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Location
Huntsville, AL
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Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Sorry for the lack of updates. I wanted to make sure everything I did worked in case I posted any misguiding information. The truck runs. It fired right up once I swapped the PATS and keys. I did a bit of custom wiring to make it run correctly with the auto computer. I retained the mountaineer's transmission harness, but I had to short some wires together to make it think its in neutral so it can start. Now it will start in neutral or in any gear if the clutch pedal is depressed. Just like before.

Also, the BW4406 electric shift sends the same signals to the GEM as my old BW1354, but the connector doesn't mate up. So I cut the connector off of my old t-case and soldered it where the 4406's was, making sure I matched the wire colors....and it works. It shifts into 4X4 just fine with no issues.

Okay, for the transmission harness... all you have to do is short pins 10 and 12 on the DTR connector. This signals neutral so that you can start the engine with the manual transmission. Also, when comparing the F-150 (manual transmission) wiring diagrams with the mountaineer's, there was one other pin that was grounded on the F-150 but not on the mountaineer. So I grounded it too, but I don't know if it was necessary. The reversing lamps are controlled by two wires in the DTR, so I cut the reversing lamp connector off of the F-150's wiring harness and soldered it to those two wires, and it plugs directly into the transmission. Simple.

As for the driveshafts, I had a guy turn my rear driveshaft into the front. It is much larger for added strength. He made the rear shaft from scratch. I don't have them hooked up yet because I am out of town until January 3rd. Once I do, I will drive it up to the muffler shop so they can hook up my exhaust, I'll plug in the O2 sensors, and then I'll be done. Can't wait too test drive it.

I swapped the entire PS cooler since it was a better fit, as well as the hoses.


Custom wiring harness for BW4406


Finished!


The hardest part of the whole swap? Bleeding the stupid clutch. My goodness....

I'll post more pics when the drive shafts and exhaust are all hooked up and everything is nice and clean. Questions?
 

shr3dd3r 09

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Messages
244
Reaction score
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Location
Huntsville, AL
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.9L Inline 4 Cylinder Cummins 4BT
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
3 Inches
Tire Size
33X11.5X16 (285/75R16)
Got the drive shafts installed and the truck finally moves!


Drove it up to the muffler shop with nothing but the headers on and man is it loud. They told me they couldn't hook the downpipes and tail pipe up for me. Too much of a project for them. Can you believe that? They fit right on no problems. So I have an appointment on Monday for another place to do the work for me, but I am towing it there since it's about 20 miles. I don't want to drive it that far as it is.

It definitely does not run like it should. Maybe just because the four O2 sensors aren't plugged in. I'll know more once the exhaust and O2 sensors are on, but as it is it does not like to idle. It acts like it's not getting enough fuel and wants to die, but it runs at the same fuel pressure as it did with the v6 so I don't know. Then sometimes the rpms will shoot up for a couple of seconds and then drop back down. So maybe it just doesn't know how much fuel to supply since it's not getting anything from the O2 sensors.

Anyone experienced this before?

Once it's out on the highway it drives just fine with the manual transmission, but at first it did not want to return to idle speed when the clutch was depressed, but that got a little better after I drove it for a bit. I'll probably have a tune written for it to get rid of all the auto tranny functions and hopefully that problem will be solved. Again I'll know more once the exhaust and O2 sensors are hooked up. I'll just have to see how it runs after that.

But it really pulls! I loaded it onto the trailer today and the wood on it is kind of slick, so I popped it into 4X4 and it pulled itself right up onto the trailer in 2nd gear with no gas! Excited that it's almost done.
 

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