My 4.6 swap

That's nice update mang. 22mpg is pretty sweet. How's the power down low with 3.08s?

The power feels good. I original planed on running a t45 in the truck but due to the shifter location went with the m5. With the t45 gearing, the 3.73 that were in the rear end, would have worked great. With 3.73 gears and the m5 Trans it feels like you are shifting very soon all the time. I could cruse at 35 mph in 4th gear no problem.

So i found a trans gear calculator on line.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

This one to be exact, and typed in all the info for each trans. Then played around with the final drive till my mph and rpm maximums were similar to a t45 with 3.73 gears. And i came up with about a 3.08 gear.

So a m5 with a 3.08 gear should act very similar to a t45 with a 3.73 gear.

Weight...

So I finally got around to weighing the Ranger tonight,and I have to say that i did add a little weight. Now my numbers are not perfect because the scales around here tend to round up and down. The one I original used can swing 20 lbs. This is with me in it both times. I weigh 200 lbs.

So here are the numbers from the old set up. I think this was with half a tank but i cannot remember.

Front --- 1960
Rear ---- 1280
Whole -- 3280

And the new set up. This was with basically a full tank of gas.

Front --- 2040
Rear ---- 1440
Whole -- 3500

So that is...

Front --- +80
Rear ---- +160
Whole -- +220

Now things that changed here was quite a lot. I added a lot and removed a lot.

Things i removed were
A/C and some of the box.
40% of the seats.
And the 2.5
- Cast aluminum pan
- Cast iron block
- cast iron head
- cast aluminum intake
- cast iron exhaust manifold
- cats
- Front coils
and some other light stuff

Things that added weight
- 4.6 all aluminium and a plastic intake
- cast exhaust manifolds
- 8.8 in rear with disc and sway bar
- bigger brakes up front
- slightly bigger tranny and clutch
- a taller tire
- Sound system
- and replaced some metal that had rotted out in the rear.

But as you can see most of the weight whet to that back of the truck which could be contributed to the 8.8 swap and maybe that half a tank of fuel. But i reality the amount of weight that i added was not that much.

I think I have read through this thread like 8 or 9 times, I can respect the work you have put into this truck.

22MPG is awesome, I had 2 crown vics with 4.6's was impressed at the power and the fuel mileage wasn't too bad either.

I'm new to the site and im building a v8 ranger. I have to say your write up was excellent. I'm using a 2valve 4.6 from a Grand Marquis. I'm going to be using a early 2000 mustang ecm and harness. The Ranger is a 2002 2wd that had the 3.0 in it. I was curious did you retain the use of the ABS system or did you eliminate it? Being a mechanic by trade I've been studying wiring diagrams and it seems like for the most part it is a standalone system on the rangers and they output a signal for the speedometer and the stock ecm. Thanks for any insight you might have and again excellent write up.

metalica9 said:

I'm new to the site and im building a v8 ranger. I have to say your write up was excellent. I'm using a 2valve 4.6 from a Grand Marquis. I'm going to be using a early 2000 mustang ecm and harness. The Ranger is a 2002 2wd that had the 3.0 in it. I was curious did you retain the use of the ABS system or did you eliminate it? Being a mechanic by trade I've been studying wiring diagrams and it seems like for the most part it is a standalone system on the rangers and they output a signal for the speedometer and the stock ecm. Thanks for any insight you might have and again excellent write up.

Click to expand...

Sorry i did not get back to you right away it has been a while since i have checked the forum. I was able to retain all ABS function on my truck. My speed sensor read off the rear axle not the trans so it was basically untouched by me. Now i do not remember what years they changed. I just remember that the 2000 was one of the few that read off the rear end for the speedo. It then sent the same signal to the GEM and the ECM. Later years sent it only to the ECM and then either sent that signal or changed it. Basically if you did not have the ECM you did not have a speedo.

Its cool to see more people thinking about the 4.6 swap. I think if i were to do it again I would use a 2v motor. For one they are cheaper all around, motor, computer, wire harness, tuning software, and alot of the aftermarket. Two the wiring would be a hole lot simpler to deal with. Three they are just a little narrower. Four you can get a Tork tec kit to bolt on to the top of the thing and have yourself a true mini lighting.

Thanks for replying. Yes the sensor is in the rear differential and it looks like from the wiring diagrams it is stand alone. It sends the speed signal to the cluster then comes out of the cluster to the ecm. Hoping to start soon. Im also hoping since the motor is a little narrower I can retain the A/C system. I just tested the motor and transmission that Im going to use and it ran and drove surprisingly well. Its going to be a fun winter building the truck.

mkats said:

Its cool to see more people thinking about the 4.6 swap. I think if i were to do it again I would use a 2v motor. For one they are cheaper all around, motor, computer, wire harness, tuning software, and alot of the aftermarket. Two the wiring would be a hole lot simpler to deal with. Three they are just a little narrower. Four you can get a Tork tec kit to bolt on to the top of the thing and have yourself a true mini lighting.

Click to expand...

Pretty cool to see a 3V though, I don't think I have seen one in a Ranger before.

I wanted to do a 5.4 (2V) at first but mod motors don't fit in older trucks well at all.

metalica9 said:

Thanks for replying. Yes the sensor is in the rear differential and it looks like from the wiring diagrams it is stand alone. It sends the speed signal to the cluster then comes out of the cluster to the ecm.

Click to expand...

On the 3v 4.6 truck, the speed signal worked because the truck started life as a 2.5 I4. Only the 2.5's use the GEM to condition the rear ABS sensor signal into a conventional speed signal.

Most/all of the V6's use the PCM to condition the transmission output shaft sensor into a speed signal.

Just curious, do y'all think there might be a possible way to swap in a 2000 model 2.5L gem into an '03 model that came 3.0 to get that type of speedometer system? Just thinking off the top of my head after reading that last comment but if I could make my truck run the speedo off the rear axle sensor that = headache gone. (My ranger also came without power windows or locks if the gem has anything to do with that) also don't care for the door "ding" and odometer.


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ford_ranger12 said:

Just curious, do y'all think there might be a possible way to swap in a 2000 model 2.5L gem into an '03 model that came 3.0 to get that type of speedometer system?

Click to expand...

Absolutely!!

Or, you can graft in a lot of the ABS electronics from an '99 - '01 Explorer but the GEM swap is easier.

Great news! My only worry is they may have different connectors. I thought I had a bad gem a couple years ago due to speedo, odometer, windshield wipers, ding, and dome light going out. It ended up being the fuse but i grabbed a gem out of similar rangers at the JY a few times finding out it had different connections. Either way I could probably find a pin out of both GEMS to each year model and just get power and speed signal to the 2.5 and place them both inside the dash and have just the 2.5 to transfer the speed signal to the cluster. I may be thinking too much into it and may just be able to swap it out lol I just never expect it to be so easy


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Update!

It has been along time since I have updated my build.

Things that i have done while since the last update.

Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders, because i was getting air in the system some where and it was just as easy to replace it all with new.

Went through the trans because i was having 3rd gear synchro problems along with a grinding reverse. I ended up replacing about 4 gears, all the synchro, a few bearings and both clutch forks. but its all good to go. maybe...

I also fixed a few exhaust leaks that i had no big deal.

But the biggest thing is I got the motor figured out and it is now running on all 8 cylinders and revving to redline like it should. This thing does pull very good.

I have put quite a few miles on the truck so far and it has been running great. Things that will have to be done shortly is a dyno tune and something with the trans.

Should have videos of the tune within the next couple of weeks.

But before i go to the track with the truck i have to figure out something with the trans. As it turns out a truck trans. is not like a car. and this thing does not want to shift all that well. Now i am not completely sure it is that transmissions fault. I could have a clutch that is just not releasing far enough for the higher rpm shifts. or maybe my cheap clutch is sticking a little bit at the higher rpm's. I don't really know at this point. I have owned a few vehicles with m5od transmissions and i can't say that I have had the same problems with them as i am having with this one.

For now i can drive it.

Hears a vid on it revving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUXGbw_qypY&feature=youtu.be

Thought I would update again.

I got the truck on the dyno the other week and ended up with a final number of 262 hp and 302 ft lbs. on 91 octane. Might have a little left in it I ran out of time to really play with the timing. The temp that day was in the mid 90's. And compared to a few other 3v mustangs we have had on the dyno this is pretty much what i expected.

I also got a chance to take it to a burn out contest. Here is a video of that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LokhVtwXk1A

I only got the chance to do one burn out before i cooked my clutch line and split the line shortly after. So i ended up replacing the line with a stainless line. If any one is interested I found out a Mcleod makes a clutch line that replaces the rangers stock plastic line. Its actually for a ls1 Camaro.

McLeod Hydraulic Clutch Lines 139212

Summit sells this line for $82. with the line, special adapter to the master cylinder, and the factory quick disconnect on the other end.

I also got a chance to take the truck to the track. And i ended up with a best time of 14.6 at 95 mph. I ended up making only 5 runs. So for a first time on a street tire i did not think that was too bad.

I am looking at getting a better tire for the rear to try and hook up on the line a little better. i think my best 60 ft was 2.2. So there is a lot of room to go faster.

mkats said:

Thought I would update again.

I got the truck on the dyno the other week and ended up with a final number of 262 hp and 302 ft lbs. on 91 octane. Might have a little left in it I ran out of time to really play with the timing. The temp that day was in the mid 90's. And compared to a few other 3v mustangs we have had on the dyno this is pretty much what i expected.

I also got a chance to take it to a burn out contest. Here is a video of that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LokhVtwXk1A

I only got the chance to do one burn out before i cooked my clutch line and split the line shortly after. So i ended up replacing the line with a stainless line. If any one is interested I found out a Mcleod makes a clutch line that replaces the rangers stock plastic line. Its actually for a ls1 Camaro.

McLeod Hydraulic Clutch Lines 139212

Summit sells this line for $82. with the line, special adapter to the master cylinder, and the factory quick disconnect on the other end.

I also got a chance to take the truck to the track. And i ended up with a best time of 14.6 at 95 mph. I ended up making only 5 runs. So for a first time on a street tire i did not think that was too bad.

I am looking at getting a better tire for the rear to try and hook up on the line a little better. i think my best 60 ft was 2.2. So there is a lot of room to go faster.

Click to expand...

Really nice work getting that beast rolling bud. Those dyno numbers are nice and the 1/4 time is great too. It's hard to get traction on street tires at the track.

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