2.3 won't start

90jurassic2 · Apr 21, 2014

I got an 85 2.3 it if a mustang. I just dropped it in my 85 ranger. I mixed and matched a little bit, just the upper intake manifold. I'm getting spark, and fuel. It cranks over strong, just wont start. Any ideas?

Spott · Apr 21, 2014

Sounds like something's not right.

(In other words, we're going to need a lot more detail to help you.)

90jurassic2 · Apr 21, 2014

Well what else do you need to know? I just swapped the block and head. Plugged everything in. Kept the same intake manifold off the bad motor and the header. Everything is wired up how it needs to be. Vacuums are all set up. Is that enough?

Haywire6000 · Apr 22, 2014

Spark+Fuel+Compression= Vroom. Sound like a timing issue. Check you timing marks, being two teeth off will cause them not to run some times.

Spott · Apr 22, 2014

Well, for starters: How did the engine run in the previous application? Was it stored, for how long, in what manner? Why did you replace you old engine? What's the state of the EEC? How's the compression? How's the fuel pressure? How's the timing? How's the injector spray? Does the exhaust smell like gas? Are you SURE you plugged every connector back in? Are you sure the dizzy is clocked correctly to your plugs? (And those are just the first round of questions.)

Some people can write whole novels about engine swaps and troubleshooting. You basically asked us "My engine cranks, but won't start. Why?"

90jurassic2 · Apr 22, 2014

I feel like I gave you enough info. The motor sat for about 2 or 3 months. The old motor siezed, thats why I replaced it (don't know what that has to do with this one?) EEC is good. Compression is good. Fuel pressure is good. I'm gonna look at timing again. I'm guessing its to advanced, and not getting spark at the right time. There's no exhaust because it wont start. I am positive I plugged everything in. I triple checked. I've done motor swaps before. only thing different is this motor has a distributor that I replaced.

Thanks Haywire, I'll look into that.

EDIT: Timing on the motor is good, checked it with a timing light. I just need to adjust the distributor a snatch more I'm guessing.

FritzTKatt · Apr 22, 2014

Sure that you aren't on the exhaust stroke when the plug fires?

Does it push a fuel/air mix out the exhaust when it cranks?

Mark_88 · Apr 22, 2014

The timing is set with the vacuum line (if present) disconnected (or spout connector removed) so you may be seeing incorrect timing if that was not done properly.

Your valve timing can be out and the crank timing could be perfect....because there is a 180* possible difference...but I think someone already mentioned that...you need to check for TDC on the compression stroke before setting the valves and installing the belt.

The reason for the motor swap is important for a simple reason...if you were having the same issue on the old one then it means the same issue is still there...but a swap for a broken engine usually means everything else was working to some extent.

Spott · Apr 23, 2014

Thank you for your reply. Now that you've explained those additional things, you've helped us eliminate about 90% of the possible causes of your problem.

At this point, I'd suggest you check distributor phasing and then listen/feel for injector tick. If the injectors are working, then your EEC and cam sensor are probably OK.

The replacement dizzy makes me strongly suspect your distributor is 180° out of phase. Swapping the plug wires around can fix that, followed by final timing adjustments.

RonD · Apr 23, 2014

+1 ^^

On a 4 stroke engine the Crank turns at twice the speed of the Cam, this means there are TWO #1 Top Dead Center(TDC) marks passing the pointer for each complete cycle of #1 cylinder.
TDC compression
TDC exhaust

The distributor runs off the CAM timing so it needs to be lined up to spark the #1 plug on the TDC Compression stroke, not TDC exhaust, so if you just pick one you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right, but in my experience it is more like an 80/20 of getting it wrong, lol.

Although you often get a back fire when distributor is 180deg off on Cam timing, this is not always the case.
If you remove spark plug #1 and rotate the crank you can feel which TDC is the compression stroke by the air be forced out with both valves closed.
Then pull of distributor cap and see if rotor is aligned with #1 wire on the cap.

90jurassic2 · Apr 23, 2014

I can hear it pump through the exhaust. I bet that's the air/fuel mixture. I just bright it to top dead center, it was probably on the exhaust stroke. That would make a lot of sense because then the spark would be firing at the completely wrong timewhich is what it's doing.

90jurassic2 · Apr 26, 2014

It's on time. Getting fuel and spark. Plugs are good. I'm thinking I need to rest the distributor electronic or whatever something But I can't really find anything that tells me how to do that. Any Help guys?

Spott · Apr 26, 2014

Do you mean "reset"? It's not a microprocessor that can be reset, it's just circuits. Either it works, or it doesn't. If it doesn't work, replace it.

If you're getting spark at the right time, more or less, then it's probably working just fine.

Is it a nice fat bright spark?

90jurassic2 · Apr 29, 2014

Never checked what the disk looked like, just stuck a screw driver into the spark plug wire and my buddy was getting a good shock. I'm just gonna send it in to a shop. My backyard mechanics skill can't master this one.

2.3 won't start

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