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Old 04-23-2018, 12:19 PM   #11
750beater
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Originally Posted by RonD View Post
When engine is cold, so is fan clutch and its oil inside, so at startup the fan clutch should be locked and you will hear louder noise from the fan, but that should only last a few seconds, 5-8seconds, then it will unlock and noise level will drop.
Fan clutch has the bi-metal spring on the front that is heated by the radiator
As spring heats up it expands and closes a valve inside that limits oil passing thru it, this brings fan blade speed closer to engine RPMs, it is never fully Locked to water pump shaft speed.

Tell tale sign of failing fan clutch is NOT unlocking after cold start, so no decrease in noise
Or engine temp climbing but only when idling or driving very slowly(stop and go traffic), so it is not locking up enough.
Rolled up paper test can't really tell you radiator temp or fan clutch spring temp.

Start cold engine, wait for fan clutch to release, you will "hear it", shut off engine and manually spin fan blade, should spin easily, remember that
After shutting off fully warmed up engine the fan should be harder to spin manually, test for that

Fan is only needed when idling or driving slowly, when vehicle is at any speed above say 30MPH air flow thru the radiator is more than any fan could provide.

Although I do remember driving one time across the prairies, years ago, going 65MPH, in a car with AC on and was watching temp gauge go up a bit, ???
Turned off AC and it was still climbing a bit ??
Rolled down window..................NO WIND noise, lol, stuck my arm out the window absolutely NO WIND at 65MPH
Had a very strong tail wind so no air flow at radiator.
Only ever experienced that one time, very cool but...............

22 years old is what the parts are on a 1996 Ranger, some have been changed some haven't, so really not that unusual to find "other" related parts out of spec when doing repairs.

Thanks Ron I will retest tonight. But already I see issues. The fan does come on right away but it's longer than 5-8 secs. More like a minute. I also never really hear the noise you are referring to. It's pretty quiet.

Also I'm basing the temp of the engine idling and the temp gauge claiming overheating status. More than 1/2 way.
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 750beater View Post
Thanks Ron I will retest tonight. But already I see issues. The fan does come on right away but it's longer than 5-8 secs. More like a minute. I also never really hear the noise you are referring to. It's pretty quiet.

Also I'm basing the temp of the engine idling and the temp gauge claiming overheating status. More than 1/2 way.
Fan clutch is pretty cheap, even heavy duty fan clutch that I love on my truck was pretty cheap. Most people hate it but I love the sound the fan makes like a Jeep, when I start out in the morning, I had it done, but with special wrenches it should only take a few minutes to change, good luck!
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:15 PM   #13
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Swap it out if temp gauge climbs when idling, and you don't hear LOUD fan noise on Cold Start

Water pump with worn out impeller(fins) can do same thing, temp climbs at idle, but you would still have the loud noise from working fan clutch
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Old 04-24-2018, 07:13 AM   #14
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A reading on the gauge of 'more than 1/2 way' does not indicate overheating. The 2.3 doesn't generally produce enough heat to need a fan clutch, but they are installed for two other reasons: 1) A/C condenser cooling & heat rejection and 2) fuel economy(to get fleet ratings).
I did not understand how the upper hose can be hot & cold at the same time, hot at the thermostat end but cold at the radiator end. It is possible there was not enough flow and the 'hot' was being dissipated/diluted as the coolant flowed towards the radiator???
When the gauge is reading above 1/2, feel the air being blown by the radiator fan. It should be quite warm. An overheated engine will SMELL different from one at normal operating temperature.
To my knowledge, you will not get a fan to spin freely at any time. Freely being spinning like the blades of a household fan. The clutch has fluid in it that will dampen free-spinning. The fan will turn at least a portion of a rotation before stopping when it is not engaged, and should be a bit more difficult to turn when it is engaged if spun by hand.
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Old 04-24-2018, 10:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by tomw View Post
A reading on the gauge of 'more than 1/2 way' does not indicate overheating. The 2.3 doesn't generally produce enough heat to need a fan clutch, but they are installed for two other reasons: 1) A/C condenser cooling & heat rejection and 2) fuel economy(to get fleet ratings).
I did not understand how the upper hose can be hot & cold at the same time, hot at the thermostat end but cold at the radiator end. It is possible there was not enough flow and the 'hot' was being dissipated/diluted as the coolant flowed towards the radiator???
When the gauge is reading above 1/2, feel the air being blown by the radiator fan. It should be quite warm. An overheated engine will SMELL different from one at normal operating temperature.
To my knowledge, you will not get a fan to spin freely at any time. Freely being spinning like the blades of a household fan. The clutch has fluid in it that will dampen free-spinning. The fan will turn at least a portion of a rotation before stopping when it is not engaged, and should be a bit more difficult to turn when it is engaged if spun by hand.
tom
Alright everyone, I ran the test last night and on a cold start the fan clutch runs for about a good minute and or a minute and a half. Finally when it shuts off it spins better but not a full rotation. Also Tom I'm a little confused about your statement. Any engine with a water cooled design sitting and idling would eventually overheat without the assistance of a fan in front pulling air from the radiator. Just saying.

Also I did not let the engine get past operating temp, I shut the engine off once the fan disengaged, one thing I heard was the sound of dripping water but nothing was leaking. Leading me to believe it was internal coming from the engine. My heater is working fine though and I believe there is no air in the system. I refilled it while it was on ramps.

I am going to be ordering a new clutch today and we shall see.
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Old 04-24-2018, 11:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD View Post
Swap it out if temp gauge climbs when idling, and you don't hear LOUD fan noise on Cold Start

Water pump with worn out impeller(fins) can do same thing, temp climbs at idle, but you would still have the loud noise from working fan clutch
Oh and I replaced the water pump a couple thousand miles ago. It basically had no teeth, which I figured explained the odd temp readings.
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Old 04-25-2018, 08:04 AM   #17
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Ummh, ok. Did not think I mentioned something stationery not needing a fan. The Lima can go quite a while before it overheats. The same radiator is installed with or without A/C being installed.
The sound you thought was water dripping was the oil draining back to the crankcase from the cam & cylinder head.(most likely)
If you drive down the road @30mph, you should not need a fan to be operable, and could likely remove it if all you did was drive, and never sit in traffic.
As noted, the fan clutch is used for the two things mentioned, and a normal fan could be installed if desired, though I would not. FWIW
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