Need 3 questions answered ASAP ! Trying to resurrect new to me butchered 302 Ranger

Hard to believe its been three years since I last logged on here life got seriously complicated for a while LOL. I would love to fill everyone in, but it would be a seriously long post.

Lets just say this. I have both my kids full time, in fact I have a hearing in two weeks to get full sole custody of them both. My bi polar psycho ex is homeless on the streets of Vegas, while hiding from a felony fugitive and felony theft warrant out of Florida. My nearly 12 year old daughter is now a Nationally known competitive shooter thats been seen on CNN, Fox and Friends, Nightline Special, etc, etc. She's the current NJ State WOMENS Div NSSF Rimfire State Champ and she finished 5th in Pre Teen Open Rifle at the Smith and Wesson Nationals in Florida this past March. In seven weeks we are finally fleeing the Peoples Socialist Republic of NJ for good and it looks like we are landing in San Antonio Texas.

Anyway, onto the topic at hand. I spent the last six years chasing my dream of a 302 powered Ranger, originally working with my 92 Ext Cab 2whld. But like I said, life got complicated. The original 3.0 engine blew nearly 2 years ago and it sat at a friends shop rotting away.

Three weeks ago another friend tipped me to a local guy selling a 94 Ranger Super Cab with the 302/AOD/8.8 rear conversion already done. He was in the midst of trying to switch from Speed Density to Mass Air, working with a hacked to hell harness and a bad computer. He couldnt get it right so he got frustrated and gave up on it. I stole the whole truck for 1200 bucks and immediately towed it to my buddy's shop who is a drag racer and has done some wild builds in the past. While it wasnt running at the time, the previous owner did share video of it running and driving before he started messing with it and it is insanely fast and powerful. Likely 350rhp easy

We ordered a used but intact and perfectly good harness and new computer from a friend of his to start fresh.

I've searched the respective tech articles and appropriate threads and Im not coming up with answers to the questions we have. Like I said, Im moving half way across the Country in less than two months and there arent many mechanics I trust unless I've known them for quite some time, so I REALLY need to get this thing running again in the next couple weeks. So here they are

1) What year F150 or Explorer One Piece Driveshaft will directly bolt into the 94 SuperCab with AOD and 8.8 Explorer Rear ? The Tech Forum only talks about it when working with 4X4 Rangers, not 2 wheel drive ones.

2) The existing long tube headers are rotted at the collector and need to be replaced and the 3 inch exhaust is WAY to big for the current set up and actually harming performance. Whats the current "best" header set up that will bolt on with no or minimal mods ? Shorties ? Tri Y's ? I wasnt planning on changing the exhaust system and headers as Im exempt from emissions, but the headers are simply in too poor shape to leave as is. But Im not trying to break my budget either.

3) Is the 94 Explorer 4.0 radiator with an electric pusher fan still considered the "easiest" most affordable way to go ? The current rad is WAY to small. The truck was originally titled in Delaware and whoever put this thing together red neck engineered a shit ton of stuff. They mounted a fuel cell under the bed where the spare tire normally lives and did it with ( I swear to god, black painted 2x4's !!) I have NO idea what the radiator came out of, they used ( again I swear to god) COPPER WATER tubing to plumb the fuel cell !!

I already have a new Jaz 22 gal Fuel Cell kit with all the parts, AN fittings and lines ordered, it will be mounted in the bed against the forward bulk head next to the battery box.

Sooo, I need a header recommendation, radiator recommendation and what year one piece driveshaft will work with this truck ASAP. Im trying to get this thing reliably running, driving no later than mid June.

I've been taking pics and I promise I will post them as things move along and I resurrect this nightmare. Im THRILLED that I found it, even with all the unexpected problems, cause even with them, its still 80 percent closer to being done than my 92 I spent six years trying to build up.

ANY help is greatly appreciated folks

I would suspect the reason no one has answered is because they have no answer for you. Even tho I'm a mod I have a limited knowledge base and a 302 swap isn't one of them. I suspect there are few people that have actual knowledge. Hopefully this answer will bump the question and someone with more knowledge will answer.

1) What year F150 or Explorer One Piece Driveshaft will directly bolt into the 94 SuperCab with AOD and 8.8 Explorer Rear ? The Tech Forum only talks about it when working with 4X4 Rangers, not 2 wheel drive ones.

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No idea, mine is a 4x4.

2) The existing long tube headers are rotted at the collector and need to be replaced and the 3 inch exhaust is WAY to big for the current set up and actually harming performance. Whats the current "best" header set up that will bolt on with no or minimal mods ? Shorties ? Tri Y's ? I wasnt planning on changing the exhaust system and headers as Im exempt from emissions, but the headers are simply in too poor shape to leave as is. But Im not trying to break my budget either.

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Tri Y's are great if you don't have the 164t bellhousing. I have Hedman 88400's which will probably not fit well without a body lift. 89400 are specifically made for Ranger swaps, you might check into them. They have some fitment issues, I can never keep it straight if they are 2wd or 4wd related, check into it for sure.

3) Is the 94 Explorer 4.0 radiator with an electric pusher fan still considered the "easiest" most affordable way to go ? The current rad is WAY to small.

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Yes but the fan does run a lot and if you want A/C the fan goes where the condenser should go. And depending on what belt accessory you have it can require the removal of the radiator (which requires removing the grille to get the fan off) for completely unrelated things... like the alternator. Most people move the radiator into the car support (which would again interfere with a condenser) and use a puller fan (puller fans are more efficient)

2) The existing long tube headers are rotted at the collector and need to be replaced and the 3 inch exhaust is WAY to big for the current set up and actually harming performance. Whats the current "best" header set up that will bolt on with no or minimal mods ? Shorties ? Tri Y's ? I wasnt planning on changing the exhaust system and headers as Im exempt from emissions, but the headers are simply in too poor shape to leave as is. But Im not trying to break my budget either.


Are they custom made to start with? can you get them off and look for a name or number and get the same ones? if you go to shorties won't you be needing to custom build new collectors? and if so, nothing in this venture sounds cheap. what heads you have there? 4 bars? if so watch for plugs hitting the pipes....

I also am with what "floored" said those with answers will answer.

cheers

Angie said:

2) The existing long tube headers are rotted at the collector and need to be replaced and the 3 inch exhaust is WAY to big for the current set up and actually harming performance. Whats the current "best" header set up that will bolt on with no or minimal mods ? Shorties ? Tri Y's ? I wasnt planning on changing the exhaust system and headers as Im exempt from emissions, but the headers are simply in too poor shape to leave as is. But Im not trying to break my budget either.


Are they custom made to start with? can you get them off and look for a name or number and get the same ones? if you go to shorties won't you be needing to custom build new collectors? and if so, nothing in this venture sounds cheap. what heads you have there? 4 bars? if so watch for plugs hitting the pipes....

I also am with what "floored" said those with answers will answer.

cheers

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They dont appear to be custom made, and there really is no way to tell. I got VERY little history on the truck. I did notice today that the passenger side of the frame has a small clearance notch cut into it, which leads me to believe they are the common Heddman Headers.

1. No idea, you're going to have to crawl around in the yards with a measuring tape, or just go to a driveshaft shop and have one made.

2. Just about anything that will hug in close to the block. Plain-jane manifolds work well. James Duff makes some specific headers, but you WILL need a 3" body lift to clear them.

3. James Duff makes a specific 5.0L swap radiator, 4 core aluminum. Otherwise same as #1, grab a tape measure and start going through the junkyards.

If you have a company called "Fleet Pride" in your area give them a shout. They helped me out with a drive shaft issue a few years ago and have branches all over the country. There's also a company called "Dennys Driveshaft" (I think that's the name) out of Rochester, NY that also does custom drive shafts. They might be able to assist.

As for the radiator? I'd hit pick and pull yards with that measure tape. Now I'm NOT one to recommend a pick and pull for a radiator unless $$ was that tight. It's one of the more risky parts to pull IMO. However if you find a make and model that is the right size, and will do what you want? I'd say if it's cheap enough grab it. Along with the year/make/model of what it came out of. Worst case? You have something to use as a guide to get the right one. Best case? It's not plugged/leaky and you have a functional one.

S-

I'll chime in too I honestly think I have looked in this thread category like once lol but anyway here's my 2 cents on the subject

Rad: I just bought a summit brand aluminum rad and had a friend weld up some brackets for it but a word of advice buy the biggest dual core rad that will fit in your given space I fought cooling probs alot but just fab up some brackets and run down the the local weld shop and have em tigged up.

the fuel cell issue: just make a mount in the bed with some banding strap and angle iron with a little cut and grind a touch of paint it can look fine

D shaft: just go get a D shaft from a short bed f150 and call around to see who does d shaft shortening (its easier than lengthening) have it cut and balanced and toss it in or you can make one I have seen pulling truck with square tube d shafts people made for them I think your problem is your thinking inside the box get creative on it remember there are no set rules to fabing anything its whatever you pull outta your ass and sure you won't be awesome at first but you'll get better with time I know I'm no master but I got a welder and a grinder!! lol

1)You will have to do some digging to find out what you need. I'd start with the driveshaft off of an AOD vehicle. I've never owned something with an AOD, but I'm sure it takes a slip yoke. I'd be VERY surprised if you found a "bolt on" driveshaft.

2)I used Hedman 88400's. They were under $200 and I didn't have to cut or notch anything.

3)I used a 4.0 Explorer Radiator and regret it. It's just too small for what I do. My pusher fan off a v10 Jaguar I found in the junkyard is always kicking on. I've overheated my truck numerous times now out in the snow screwing around. Around town it seems ok but I haven't driven in stop and go traffic in hot temps yet.

Good luck!