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Front Axle Swap 88 BII


Catahoula

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It is my undrestanding that the solid front axle from a 94 explorer is a straight swap. with the exception of shortening the drive shaft. what I don't understand ( excuse me forn my ignorance ) is that if it is a bolt in swap then does that mean that no other modifications need to be made to the rocker arms ect...? I have not seen one of these done before so I would appreciate any insite
 
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4.0B2

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solid front axle from a 94 ex? i think the dana 35 ttb is the only option on that ex.
 

Catahoula

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you could be right. I'm just going off what someone told me. thats my problem. i don't understand. so your saying it is a split axle? is there a solid axle that is common in swapping for the BII's?
 

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check out the tech library. dana 44 but its gonna be some work. now the dana 35 is a split axle but it is the axle swap i'm gonna do on my 88 b2. its stronger and the gear ratio range is greater. i've heard from lots of ppl that the dana 35 is as strong as a dana 44 solid axle. check out my forum when i was asking to use a dana 35 ttb or a dana 30 jeep solid axle.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?p=644553

there is so much good info on there. you might be fine with the d35 ttb. check out all the links and stuff listed in my forum.

if you have the money, time, tools, and patience (and need it) the d44 solid front with matching 9 inch rear is the way to go if you can justify it. but for my daily driver/ weekend warrior the d35 is gonna work perfect
 

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Thanks Man!! that was a huge help. I think I have my bearings now about the whole thing. I am going to the salvage yard next week and i'll see about getting a D35.
 

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the d35 is almost a bolt up swap, i'm working on gettin my ready. are you running a lift kit? if so what brand is it?
 

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yea, the only thing that you might have to change is your front drive shaft length. other than that its a direct bolt on. while your at the jy you should pull a 8.8 from the same vehicle you get the d35 out of that way both front and rear axles will be stronger.
 

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Try to find a 4.10 limited slip. And get matching axles like said above. I wish I would have done that to begin with instead of using two different donor vehicles. If not 4.10 then find a 3.73. Get one out of an explorer just to make sure you get a 31 spline rear and a true d35 front. Watch for manual hubs to on the front. On the rear you would have to do a spring over axle and do the shock tabs. Nothing a lil welding don't take care of. Find a 4.10 set and you don't even have to set up gears till you go lower.
 

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i agree. id love to find a matching 35 and 8.8 with 4.10s in em. its deffinetly next on the project list for me. good luck with your swap!
 

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I havn't done a lift yet other than 3" body lift. but I think 4" skyjacker when I'm Ready.
that'll give me 7 total inches. like I said. I'm just getting started. Plans are big Big and, according to the Mrs., money is small. I personaly don't see anything else that's worth spending money on but she seems to think that we need to feed the kids.LOL
I pay off the Ranger this December and the that payment is going to transfer to the 88.
then its on!!
thanks guys for the help. I never even thought about the Rear. how do ya tell if its a 410 LS?
 

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go to the tech library and look under the axle codes section. find the one thats 4.10l/s for the 8.8 and look for those at the jy. that is if they still have the tag on them haha...
 

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Two ways
1. The diff tag will say 4L10 if it's limited
If it's open it will say 4(space)10
2. The axle code on the door. Tech library like said above.

If you can find one. Snatch them both! Remember 97-up exs have disc brakes. But you won't find a d35 in one of those. So go earlier. You can always use the backing plates and rotors and calipers and convert it to disc. That's what I'm doing on my 8.8.
 

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Two ways
1. The diff tag will say 4L10 if it's limited
If it's open it will say 4(space)10
2. The axle code on the door. Tech library like said above.

If you can find one. Snatch them both! Remember 97-up exs have disc brakes. But you won't find a d35 in one of those. So go earlier. You can always use the backing plates and rotors and calipers and convert it to disc. That's what I'm doing on my 8.8.
i would just pull the front axle u want and the rear axle u want, with the disc brakes, most yards wont charge u more, just say its a exploder rear lol

matching dosnt really matter when coming from stock trucks...esp the disc brake 8.8 never goes bad in the exploders, u will want a OPEN carrier, not a LS carrier like everyone esle has been telling u, a open carrier will allow u to install a lunch box locker whatever brand may suit u, lockrights work well.


u always want to try to get the newest axle u can use, with the lowest miles from a factory vehicle, because odds are the rear fluid has never been changed....
 

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I'm saying limited slip bc when I get a locker it'll be Detroit or something and I have a open carrier. A limited slip would be great if he's not buying a lunchbox. And matching doesn't matter so much as it does the gear ratio matching. Odds are a jy won't hav two 4.10 explorers there. If you can find a 94 Dana 35 and a 98 8.8 with matching gears go for it. Open or limited slip that's up to you.
 

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All this is good, but.....couple things need to be cleared up, the ranger 7.5 and 8.8 (28 spline) axles are the same in strength, they use the same axle shafts, the 8.8 just has a bigger carrier/ring gear, even use the same bearings...All explorer axles are 31 spline, and about half are limited slip. From 91-94 exp axles are drum brake axles, 95-2000 are disc brake. All exp axles are sprung under, needing perches relocated to the top of the axle. If you get new perches and keep the original perches in place, they make good jacking pads...What transfercase do you have, is it electric shift, or manual?? If you have an electric shift, I highly advise grabbing the Tcase out of an exp as you can also grab the front driveshaft and then your 35 swap is bolt in. If you have a manual, while 54 manuals exist they are scarce, this would be what you would want, just make sure you get the shift linkage as well. The difference between the 1350 Tcase you have now and the 1354 case the exp's have, is the front output, the 30 is a slip yoke, where the 54 is a flange, similar to your rear driveshaft at the axle. I understand $$$ are probably tight as everyone is on a budget, but some things to keep in mind when gathering parts for your swap...If your D28 is okay right now, my advice would be to start with getting the Tcase and driveshaft and if you have enough, the rear axle. When you get more or if you have enough, the D35 last. I say the 35 last cause there are so many floating around, the rear 8.8's are more in demand than the 35 and would be a little more challenging to find...
SVT
 

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