CATASTROPHIC engine fail

bcdawg · Nov 13, 2017

Driving down the highway my truck started shaking like the tire was popped and lost 70% of power. Pulled over within 2 minutes and tried jump starting it, turned over but kept running like shit!

Killed the engine right away, Got towed home and the codereader says CAMSHAFT SYCNRO :icon_hornsup:

Assuming my engine is toast I pulled a donor engine.. But now realizing I'm not game to continue unless 100% needed, who knows if my engine might be salvageable? It was running great.. Not even knowing where to start.. :icon_confused:

Rearanger · Nov 13, 2017

You could send the oil out for used oil analysis, that will tell you what metal is in the oil and how much. I use Blackstone Labs.

Have you done a compression test?

adsm08 · Nov 13, 2017

Don't waste time with a compression test or money with an oil lab right now.

First things first. Take your cam position sensor off and make sure the magnet didn't fall out. No need to pull the whole synchro. The sensor is just the cap at the top.

If the sensor looks OK pull the dipstick and wipe it on a white paper towel. Look for sparkles. Then take your oil filter off, dump what is in it through a coffee filter, then cut it open and look inside at the media element. Unlike the strip club sparkly is bad. Any apperance of metal-flake or sparkles means the engine is toast.

However, you gave us the name of a component, not a numerical DTC or a code definition. The synchro, the piece that drives the oil pump, is a purely mechanical component and has no DTCs associated with it. Any codes referencing the synchronizer are talking about an issue with the signal coming from the sensor.

bcdawg · Nov 13, 2017

Thanks for the good advice. By the way the code was for the syncro sensor, I don't remember the #.

No specs of oil in the dip stick. I cut open the element in the filter, found two tiny metal slivers in there. Not sure what to think of it, but it didn't seem like much

I pulled the sensor and it was rusted. The syncro top looks rusted too. I turned the engine by cranking the fan and watched the syncro turn with the engine..

So I'm planning on changing the oil + filter and using a magnet to filter out any metal dust and if there's very little or no metal on the drain plug then swap the syncro & sensor then run my truck

pjtoledo · Nov 13, 2017

sounds like you're on the right track for a fix.
the cam syncro unit can fail due to gumming up and subsequent lack of lube. now would be a good time to pull the unit for a good cleaning and check that the shaft spins freely. when putting it back in time it just like a distributor, same spot after it rotates.

cbxer55 · Nov 14, 2017

I'll be following this thread. My truck is headed for 153,000 with no cam syncro problems as of yet. I do however, take the cap off and fill the thing with oil once a week or so. I know it adds a small amount of oil to the crankcase, but my truck uses a little between oil changes anyhow.

bcdawg · Nov 15, 2017

Update: Replaced the cam syncro & sensor (Old one was rusty and the gear was very stiff)

Ran my truck, and the code cleared. BUT still idling like garbage with knocking and ticking... Running full-on castrated mode so I shut off after 30 seconds

Feeling tempted to bring her into the Ford stealership for deeper diagnostics but it's looking bleak

bcdawg · Nov 15, 2017

Here's a heads up, what I experienced from my truck at 180,000 miles. Weekend driving only. Right after buying the truck and running for a year and half

1) Chirping - changed my belts, the sound was still there but then chirping went away a month later so I didn't worry about it anymore. In retrospect this was probably the synchro
2) Wouldn't start just one time. Towed her home, then started up no problems there on out
3) Long crank time (despite having replaced battery, starter, alternator, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, checked wiring, maf sensor)
4) Violent misfiring at 3500-4500 RPM - NO CODES, After messing with random cleaners and higher 91 octane off/on the misfiring went away, truck ran like a top for 6 months on 87 so figured I was in the clear..

bcdawg · Nov 15, 2017

Here's a heads up, what I experienced from my truck at 180,000 miles. Weekend driving only. Right after buying the truck and running for a year and half

1) Chirping - changed my belts, the sound was still there but then chirping went away a month later so I didn't worry about it anymore. In retrospect this was probably the synchro
2) Wouldn't start just one time. Towed her home, then started up no problems there on out
3) Long crank time (despite having replaced battery, starter, alternator, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, checked wiring, maf sensor)
4) Violent misfiring at 3500-4500 RPM - NO CODES, After messing with random cleaners and higher 91 octane off/on the misfiring went away, truck ran like a top for 6 months on 87 so figured I was in the clear..

adsm08 · Nov 15, 2017

Symptoms 2-4 read like a fuel pump and or gummed injectors.

cbxer55 · Nov 15, 2017

My experience with long crank times was gummed injectors. Had a real problem with it in January. Ford dealer ran lots of tests and determined plugged injectors. Started doing it again a week after I got it back. Started running gasoline with ethanol that day. Been running E10 gasoline ever since and not had any more problems.

CATASTROPHIC engine fail

bcdawg

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Rearanger

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adsm08

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bcdawg

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pjtoledo

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cbxer55

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bcdawg

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bcdawg

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bcdawg

New Member

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey

cbxer55

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