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Clutch Differences


shr3dd3r 09

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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 that I just swapped a Cummins 4bt into. The 4bt has the Ford-Cummins flywheel and bellhousing adapter to run with a small block ford transmission. I'm using an M5ODR2 transmission from a 2000 F150 and a clutch kit from a 1996 F150 that had the 5.0.

I can get the transmission on to within about an inch of the engine but it stops because the slave cylinder is right up against the pressure plate forks. Now I could try snugging it up with some bolts to force it on, but I don't know if it should be done this way, or if maybe I have some of the wrong clutch components.

Are there any major differences between the small block f150 clutches over the years from 1988 - present? I thought they were pretty much unchanged for all that time. I've noticed that there are clutch kits specifically for f150s for the year ranges 1988-1992 and 1993-1996. I'm wondering what the differences are and if maybe I screwed up by getting the wrong era clutch.

Also as far as I know the only differences between the older and newer M5OD transmissions is the location of the shifter.
 


Shran

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Not being familiar with the Cummins swap stuff I can't say for sure but if it were me I would try to suck the two pieces together with bolts. Open the bleeder on the slave to make it a little easier.

I did some parts comparisons and it appears that there were different slave cylinders used for 88-92 and 93-up, and the throwout bearing is different too. So my guess is that the only difference between the clutch kits is the throwout bearing... the clutch disc and pressure plate are the same.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I know you can get into different flywheel steps (in other engines anyway), you might make sure the flywheel has the clutch assembly sitting in the same relation as a 302 flywheel will. Some have the clutch surface on the same plane as the clutch assembly and others have the clutch sitting higher vs the clutch surface. Usually not an inch worth of step but I don't know dit squat about a Cummins.

Might also make sure your slave isn't extended, not sure if that can be an issue or not. (if it can even get stuck like that?)

FWIW in 1996 the M5ODR2 did acquire a longer input shaft (like 3/8") which is a non issue with a 302 swap and it doesn't sound like it would cause your issue.

Do not draw anything together with bolts (unless you know it is it the slave being extended, and then with the bleeder open like Shran suggested)
 
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Shran

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I should also mention that you should check that the input shaft has not bottomed out in the crank and the pilot bearing is sized correctly.

If it ends up that the throwout bearing/slave cylinder is the only thing holding it up, pulling it together with bolts shouldn't hurt anything. Just go slow, be careful, if the two pieces stop moving, stop and re-evaluate. That way you don't break an ear off the bellhousing. If you can get it together all the way, the worst thing that can happen is the slave cylinder may be partially or fully releasing the clutch at all times.

This is really one of those things that should be assembled on the floor to ensure that everything fits together before being disassembled again and put in the truck but that's neither here nor there at this point. The engine/trans adapter plate manufacturer might be able to give you some insight as well.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I should also mention that you should check that the input shaft has not bottomed out in the crank and the pilot bearing is sized correctly.
Since I can't see them moving the pilot bearing 3/8" farther into the flywheel I think the 96+ bellhousings are deeper requiring a longer shaft.

Just my theory, I don't have a pre 96 trans to compare with.
 

Shran

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Agreed, that is pretty likely.

I guess the deciding factor here is whether or not the combination of adapter plate + crankshaft + flywheel/pilot bearing + clutch allows everything to be in proper alignment and it's just a matter of a little push/pull to seat the assembly, or if something is bottomed out prematurely.
 

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