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Cleaning Charcoal Canister? EVAP P1443 code


irishblessing

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A couple weeks ago i received a code described as "EVAP Control System
Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve Fault". I checked my canister solenoid, sensor and hoses looking for cracks or leaks and there were none,

I cleared the code with a scanner thinking it might possibly have had been a fluke. When it came back i decided to buy a new sensor for 50 bucks and new hoses, reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and the code came back;

I know clearing it with a scanner is different and when i get the chance i will. What i'm wondering is, if it does come back what else is in that circuit that could be causing this problem, other than the solenoid?

I have also read some mixed reviews about people cleaning these charcoal canisters and was wondering if this is something that should be done and how? Has anyone done this with good results?
 


slamdstorm

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A couple weeks ago i received a code described as "EVAP Control System
Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve Fault". I checked my canister solenoid, sensor and hoses looking for cracks or leaks and there were none,

I cleared the code with a scanner thinking it might possibly have had been a fluke. When it came back i decided to buy a new sensor for 50 bucks and new hoses, reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and the code came back;

I know clearing it with a scanner is different and when i get the chance i will. What i'm wondering is, if it does come back what else is in that circuit that could be causing this problem, other than the solenoid?

I have also read some mixed reviews about people cleaning these charcoal canisters and was wondering if this is something that should be done and how? Has anyone done this with good results?
Engine size for your truck would help a great deal with this. I had the exact same code on my mercury cougar xr7 4.6L with 214k miles. What I found is that the egr passage in the throttle body was 100% blocked with carbon as was the egr. After further inspection I pulled the entire throttle body including TPS and IAC. I cleaned every vacuum port, both sensors and the egr with a mixture of gas and carb cleaner because everything was caked with carbon.

The sensors can be damaged in this process so I suggest looking up how and what to clean them with prior to attempting this if you're going to be as thorough as I was. Straight carb cleaner was suggested to be to harsh so I used more gas then cleaner on the sensors only. I used a couple of cans of carb cleaner along with an assortment of different things including drill bits to clean the passages in the throttle body. Be careful not to scar the surface of anything. This cured that code for my car so hope it does the same for you.
 
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tmcalavy

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Unless the engineers have gotten way complicated, it's granulated charcoal in a coffee can. Have at it.
 

irishblessing

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It's a 4.0 V6 OHV; Thank you ill start with cleaning the throttle body first, see what happens.

It didn't think the canister looked too complicated, ill try cleaning everything else first, seems a little more practical.
 
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It is interesting how this system actually works. The "flow sensor" is a thermistor that senses air flow by change in temperature, and indicates it by a changing voltage. The ECU looks for a CHANGE in voltage when the purge solenoid is energized. If there is a leak either between the vac port and the sensor, or between the sensor and the solenoid, there will be little or no change in temperature when the valve is actuated. If the vacuum hose is plugged there will be little or no change in temperature when the valve is actuated. If the sensor is dirty, there will be little or no change in temperature when the valve is actuated. On my '96 4.0 the code was very intermittent. Sometimes I could drive it 6 months without a code. Other times it would come on within a day, 3 times in a row. I received a spare sensor and valve with the truck when I bought it at 207000Km - the sensor was brand new - the solenoid had been changed out. When I checked, the hose between the sensor and valve was punky - it looks like it had been previously replaced with a rubber hose. I checked the valve and sensor - both OK- and replaced the short hose with a piece of fuel hose. Seems to have fixed it - we will know for sure in about 7 months!!!
 

Destroyer000

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check under the cab where the bulk connector goes into the cab from the rear. i had the same code and did the test preceure for the sensor and it tested fine and i had a corrosion problem in that bulk connector. fixed that and no more issue.
 

irishblessing

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Thanks guys, I ended up replacing both the sensor and the solenoid- total about $60 and the hose in between them which i got for free from a bucket at ORielly's and the code went away. I looked into my files and apparently the last owner had this same problem which he fixed by replacing both these parts, glad he kept good documentation.
 

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